she is very beat up looks a lot worse in person than in pix, she has big leaks and a bent burner, riser, seams split but have always lusted for one and will have a go at this old girl; might not be purdy but she is mine filled her about 3/4ths with water and stuck in freezer earlier to see if can pop the biggest dents out,
@n2666s Getting a beat up stove working again is quite a pleasurable activity. Keep us informed of your progress. Cheers Tony
Tony here we go OK, got her out of the freezer and most of the big dents are popped out ; am not going to worry about the small "to me" dings; had to heat the area around the riser a bit and after putting her in a vise and pulling after applying "blue wrench" propane torch and quenching,left me with the split seams which I just finished soldering, put water in her + wet rags over except where was soldering to hold off ruining the remainder of the seams, am going to let her sit tonight to see if she leaks; then have to straighten out her burner; HTH
no apparent leaks but now the NRV is stuck; am afraid of rounding the head off so just blew some kroil oil on it and will let her sit a day or so and see; anyone know if loco7stove is still making those lovely NRV removal spanners?.
@n2666s Hi Yes Stu is still making his NRV tool and he has a great pump tube removal tool as well. Here are the links. http://www.classiccampstoves.com/threads/nrv-tools-stove-legs-burner-repairs.17803/ http://www.classiccampstoves.com/threads/pip-holders-for-nrvs-pump-removal-tools.18890/ Hope this answers your questions. Cheers, Norman
Norman, big thanks; have sent him a PM a couple of weeks ago but no reply , I know he works full time and is probably very busy other NRV removal tools just don't seem to work as well; cheers Lou
well; guess the NRV is stuck; need one of Stu's magnificent NRV removal tool but no reply from Stu after a month; hoping he is well !; so went ahead and purchased the fancy NRV removal tool with the center guide pin out of Japan.............. put boiling water in canister so hot that had to handle the canister with welders gloves and it still will not budge next step is to desolder and remove pump tube will keep you posted on outcome
now that I was able to remove the badly corroded NRV by desoldering the pump tube with 1/2 pint of water inside the canister and was able was able to get the inside of the NRV removed; but the male part that is inside the pump tube is stuck advice neede; do I heat and run the risk of desoldering the end of the pump tube, drill it out and cut new threads or just grab it with a pair of vise grips and give the remains of the NRV a massive counterclockwise twist words of wisdom needed; cheers Lou
I think which ever way you go you will end up wrecking the remains of the NRV. Soak in penetrating oil again warm it and try twisting it out! There is no easy answer, soldering the end cap back on is not difficult, but leaving it on the tube gives you more to get hold of while trying to remove the NRV. Try freezing it? Try tapping round it with a punch? To break the corrosion bond? Good luck Nick
Hi Lou, read through this post. I reckon the bottom plate of the pump tube needs to be removed/replaced: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/removing-a-distorted-nrv.33058/#post-338015 https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/pump-tube-nrv-assembly.14028/#post-138233 Best Regards, George.
OK; did the penetrating oil with touch of torch several times today but would not budge with visegrips so ended up drilling her out conservatively but don't have a NRV handy to measure diameter and threads as likely will have to cut new ones so will need the diameter of the male NRV the part that screws into the pump tube base + the thread pitch; info appreciated again thanks in advance; Lou Radler; I painfully purchased the Japanese tool; lovely but pricey and went through all the steps including boiling water in canister <had to hold canister with leather welding gloves> + ice slush in pump tube but failed; it looks like a great tool but this old girl it terribly corroded and has been unloved for many years Norman, wondering if Stu is OK has not answered 3 PMs over last 4-5 weeks Nick, went ahead with your advice but hit the brick wall again this old girl must have been sitting in the bilge for years to get soo corroded George; thanks again for your wisdom; think have one last option and that is to insert a regular right hand thread wood bolt into the remains and see if can back it out that way might screw up the threads in the bottom plate though will keep posted and thanks again to ALL for the help and wisdom best things to learn from are the "hopeless ones"
@n2666s Hi Lou, These NRV can be a real pain to remove even with the right tools. You might be able to remove the head with an easy-out but most likely the threads will be ruined. You might want to go ahead and remove the plug at the end of the pump tube. I'm using some of the pictures in George's, kerophile, post. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/pump-tube-nrv-assembly.14028/#post-138233 I've never removed the pump tube before so I don't know what size the plug is. If the threads do get messed up you can either make another plug or if there is enough area on the plug maybe you could use a Coleman NRV. Here is a post John, presscall, did on using a Coleman NRV in an Optimus 22B http://www.classiccampstoves.com/threads/colemanizing-an-optimus-22b.18954/#post-194650 The thread for the check valve is a 3/8 x 27tpi. Here are some pictures of a Colemanized No 12 stove pump tube. This mod was done by Gary Adam aka Bernie Dawg. Lou, I'm just throwing some ideas out there, but it is up to you in the long run. Whatever you choose to do I'm looking forward to seeing the finished results and some flame shots. Cheers, Norman
OK, was thinking if I totally screw up the threads can use Norms/BDs idea of Colemanizing the pump; here is how it went; strong steel # 12 wood screw; began threading with screwdriver then held the screw head with the vise grips; threading it clockwise from the base; it is loose; loosy goosy cut head off with bolt cutter; whoa how are the threads in the pump base not pretty BUT if can get it to seal all is well the inner part <inside the tube> with cut off screw and NO washer beneath NRV threads as far as can tell are 8M x 0.8 M metric; will try to clean things up a bit more and find a loose NRV; hate to take one out of a functional stove though even if it is loose; pix of the lovely Japanese tool and the antiseize to put her back together and pray she doesn't leak fettling old stoves makes one curse and pray 'tween breaths
It is always a bit of a gamble getting the NRV out! That one looked really stuck so you have done well with the minimum amount of damage, it cannot be avoided sometimes and you still have a chance of breathing life into the old girl again. Great idea using a screw from the outside like an easy out! Good luck with the rest of it. Nick
thanks Nick; need the encouragement ; yep looked at my easyouts and from the back would only tighten the NRV remains; but the old screw worked well tried to pressurize her tonight but has several more leakswill deal with them tomorrow Lou Lou
found a couple of "dents" had punctures in the bottom; placed ugly solder patches without bothering to attempt to pull dents out as she will never be a looker just want her to be a worker so pressurized again and now found a leak at the neck base of the filler opening those dents almost look like some one might have used her a a target for a "BB" gun
@n2666s You soldering of the holes looks authentic given the condition of the rest of the stove! Keep at it! You will win eventually. Cheers Tony
Thanks Tony ; yep, no pretense here just have lusted after a 221 for a long time but all the ones have seen are a bit beyond my finances till I saw this sad old girl that had her burner tilted cockeyed like a cap on a drunk sailor ...............will give the filler neck a go when I get up; cheers Lou
fettled this leak on the base of filler tube earlier today; will try to fire her up again this evening and see if any more surprises she has had quite a few for me looking at the bottom part of the filler tube might have to go over it a bit more; soldering a circle can be painful