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Juwel 41 pre-war?

Discussion in 'Juwel No:41' started by Blueflame, Jul 12, 2016.

  1. Blueflame Canada

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    Just picked up this Juwel 41 at an antique shop. I assume it is pre war as there are no numbers punched anywhere on it except at burner. Missing the flame spreader...can I make/have one made?...any details as to how to make one?

    IMG_2047__1468346979_90879.jpg IMG_2049__1468347062_89425.jpg IMG_2051__1468347199_26278.jpg IMG_2053__1468347330_16296.jpg IMG_2054__1468347385_18701.jpg IMG_2052__1468347264_69229.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2016
  2. scouterjan

    scouterjan Canada Subscriber

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    very nice
    Jan
     
  3. Ray123

    Ray123 United States Subscriber

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    Juwel burners missing the burner plates is a very common occurrence. A homemade plate can be made to work decent enough. I simply used a hacksaw and file to make mine from a piece of 1/8 inch steel plate. Here's the dimensions: The disc is 41.8 mm with a thickness approx. 3mm. 3 tabs 120 degrees apart extend 8.5mm beyond the disk. Bend the tabs 2.5-3mm to create an air gap between the plate and the top of the burner.

    Or to save work and keep the stove authentic looking you can pick up one of these: Juwel Burner Plate
     
  4. Blueflame Canada

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    Thank you.Exactly the information I was looking for...I will make one. Is the plate perfectly flat or concave?
     
  5. Blueflame Canada

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    Does anybody know where I can get a Jet (burner tip) for a Juwel 41....need one badly. Thank you.
     
  6. Blueflame Canada

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    I finally got my Juwel 41 running. I fabricated a flame plate as suggested by Ray123. This is the best flame pattern I can get, Could there be some improvement to get a nicer blue flame? IMG_2088__1469149203_90183.jpg IMG_2089__1469149424_97250.jpg IMG_2091__1469149295_47889.jpg
     
  7. Ray123

    Ray123 United States Subscriber

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    Hi Blueflame,

    All these vaporizer tube style burners have a rolled up piece of brass mesh inside the burner tube. You can try taking that out, unrolling it and wire brushing any carbon off it.

    An idea BD gave me when I was working on my 41 was to get some small washers and put a couple under each tab on your burner plate to fine tune the distance between the plate and the burner. Maybe you'll see an improvement if the plate is a millimeter higher. Then you can bend your plate tabs accordingly.

    Were you able to find some fine wire to clear the "jet" hole? I used .23mm for mine.

    Are these pictures from the first lighting? Have you tried putting a pot of water on as a heat load and running the stove for a good 20 minutes or half hour getting everything up to full operational temperature?

    You appear to be on the right track. Things are not looking too bad.

    Ray
     
  8. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Blueflame

    I'm with @Ray123 - you are on the right track there. A clean of the burner and its gauze; a fiddle with the height of the burner plate; and a good run on high pressure would see you happy.

    I was fiddling around with a Primus 70 yesterday and worried that the jet was worn, but after 10 mins the yellow tips turned to (mostly) blue.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  9. Blueflame Canada

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    I have already experimented with putting shims on the flame plate legs...helps a bit, will continue tuning it up. I did run for 20 min with a small 6inch SS pot of water. It was quite windy and never managed to get to a boil (did not have a lid on pot). The screen mesh is completely removed...actually I had to drill it out causing some damage to the burner itself, now patched up. The fount gets hot after 5 min...but not dangerously hot. Need some burner washers as one of the two has been damaged ( what can I use?), I get a small vapor leak just below the spirit cup at the threaded connection.
    As far as pressure, I am not sure what the recommended strokes are for this stove and since there is a small leak (no flame, just wisps of smoke/vapor) I don't want to overpressure it.
    Any suggestions would be welcomed...thank you.
     
  10. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Blueflame

    You will get a better flame when you replace the washer(s) on the burner. You will also be able to pump up the pressure more readily.

    Go to The Fettle Box and see if they have the right washers, pips etc for your stove. If they haven't, or it's not obvious, measure the inside and outside diameters of what you need and send them an email. Ross will do his best to sort you out.

    When replacing the burner washers, tighten to strong hand tight, then apply a little bit more pressure with a correct fitting spanner - don't overtighten as that will distort the washer.

    If I were you, I would replace all the washers and seals...

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  11. Jeopardy

    Jeopardy United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Replacing the brass mesh will probably help too. It will use some of the heat that is currently going down to the fount to vapourize the fuel more efficiently.
    Regards
    John
     
  12. Blueflame Canada

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    Another question. Is there a safe way of removing the grate?. I am worried that bending the steel tabs may break them. Legs are permanently soldered.
    Can I use fine copper scouring pad material for the burner screen?
     
  13. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Blueflame

    If the tabs on the trivet are very rusty they might break... But I usually use mine without the tabs.

    If by the screen you been the brass gauze in the burner tube, then using a scourer is fine. I would roll it out flat; soak in acetone or carburettor cleaner and then scrub it. If you use a copper scourer, you might find that on your first burn afterwards that you get some interesting colours in your flame.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  14. Blueflame Canada

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    Your comments about the copper scourer brought back some memories of my Air Conditioning service years (30 of them). The interesting colours reminded me of this device.

     

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