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Prentiss Waber No. 1A

Discussion in 'Prentiss Wabers (Preway)' started by pnw_rainboy, Mar 17, 2014.

  1. pnw_rainboy

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    Here's my Prentiss Waber No. 1A. I have not gotten it running yet.

    I have only gotten a small yellow flame where the tube from the tank meets the first burner. So I took it apart trying to see how it works and if I could determine the problem. Didn't find anything obvious.

    A couple of questions I have....

    What was its original color? It seems to be painted a primer red now.

    What is the best way to fill the tank?

    I managed to get some fuel in but the hole is so small that I had to use a very thin tube to get a small amount inside. It was a very slow process and I think I spilled more than I got in.


    1395082153-100_0034_opt.jpg 1395082161-100_0037_opt.jpg 1395082170-100_0038_opt.jpg 1395082182-100_0040_opt.jpg 1395082189-100_0044_opt.jpg 1395082220-100_0046_opt.jpg 1395082228-100_0048_opt.jpg 1395082237-100_0050_opt.jpg 1395082243-100_0051_opt.jpg 1395082251-100_0052_opt.jpg 1395082270-100_0053_opt.jpg 1395082284-100_0054_opt.jpg 1395082292-100_0055_opt.jpg 1395082306-100_0061_opt.jpg 1395082313-100_0062_opt.jpg 1395082323-100_0064_opt.jpg 1395082336-100_0063_opt.jpg 1395082344-100_0065_opt.jpg 1395082351-100_0066_opt.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 27, 2015
  2. DAVE GIBSON United States

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    i have a couple of these.the fuel cap you took off is just valve where the pump is placed.open that and pump air in and close the valve its tricky on these really old stoves.,that whole thing comes off to fill.
    they are a sort of a farm equipment brownish green.
    someone will post a photo.
    small flames means crud in the pipes,add carb cleaner to the Coleman fuel and try again.
    they need a good preheat to really fire up.
     
  3. itchy United States

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    Good first post -- with useful pictures.

    Is that a broken off cleaning needle plugging the jet?

    Yep, it looks like the part of the cap with a gasket (probably rock hard) is holding it to the fill port. Pry that off (use something soft, wood) and replace the gasket if necessary.
     
  4. Wim

    Wim Belgium Subscriber

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    Hi rainboy, welcome on board!

    If you look at photo N° 16 you can see there's still part of the cap to be removed so you can properly fill the tank. Also, in one of the other photos one can clearly see the (broken?) pricker that blocks the jet. You can fire up the stove without the pricker, best thing to do is only use a clear fuel like Coleman fuel etc., certainly never use car fuel!

    That is a very fine stove you've got there, looks like my PW N°8 on steroids! :lol: ;) ( I do feel a bit jealous... :mrgreen: )

    Best regards,

    Wim
     
  5. scouterjan

    scouterjan Canada Subscriber

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    Nice stove.

    I have a couple of two-burners, color is sort of an olive drab. We just had a PNW Coleman gathering at Lacey, Wa 2 weeks ago, lots of collectors in the area. Email or PM if you want more imformation. These stoves need lots of pre heat. I fill the cast cup under the burner with alcohol, I use fondue fuel, light it and when nearly burned down, crack open the valve.

    Jan
     
  6. gunsoo

    gunsoo Korea, Republic of Subscriber

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    Hi pnw rainboy .

    Unfortunely look like cleaning needle was broken. and only open outer fuel cap. still attached inner cap on fuel tank hole. i think you must remove broken needle then you watch good fire flame !

    good luck rainboy :thumbup:

    Gunsoo
     
  7. snwcmpr United States

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    Welcome to CCS.
    Very very nice. And an excellent first post.

    Doesn't the needle also act as a shutoff and fuel control?

    Ken in NC
     
  8. rbhodges

    rbhodges United States Subscriber

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    When you clean the case for painting you will probably want to remove the name plate. the original color will be found under there. It looks as though the cleaning/metering needle is broken off in the gas tip. The broken needle may be removed with a soak in penetrating oil and then some gentle pulling and tapping. I have made new metering rods using parts from Coleman generators. Nice stove have fun with it.
     
  9. scouterjan

    scouterjan Canada Subscriber

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    I knew I missed posting something. Not sure on your stove but the needle might thread into the end of the benny rod, like an early coleman. Is the end of the rod hollow?
    Jan
     
  10. pnw_rainboy

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    Many thanks for all of the info. Really appreciate it. Will be sure to post pix once I get it running.

    I'm hoping to pull it out this weekend since the weather will be nice and I can work outside on it.

    Am really anxious to get this rascal running. It was my wife's grandfathers and I want to get it running and use it. Also have his Coleman Model 242B lantern (and have registered at the Pressure Lantern Forum, too) that I need to get running.
     
  11. pnw_rainboy

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    Here are some more detailed pix, including a more clear shot of the nameplate.

    1396127008-GEDC0922_opt.jpg 1396127017-GEDC0923_opt.jpg 1396127028-GEDC0924_opt.jpg 1396127035-GEDC0925_opt.jpg

    1396127054-GEDC0926_opt.jpg 1396127061-GEDC0927_opt.jpg 1396127067-GEDC0928_opt.jpg 1396127073-GEDC0929_opt.jpg

    1396127080-GEDC0930_opt.jpg 1396127088-GEDC0931_opt.jpg 1396127094-GEDC0932_opt.jpg

    Q #1: Is there a currently produced part available that I can use to replace the broken needle (not sure of the correct term)?

    Q #2: I'm not clear on which is the pre-heat pan. Is it the lowest pan (it's the small, lighter weight metal pan below the cast iron oval shaped pan?

    Q #3: Am I missing anything on the fuel tank cap parts? A gasket? Prior to removing all of the cap parts, the tank did hold pressure nicely.

    Q #4: Is this a No. 1 or a No. 1A? Is there a difference?

    Q #5: Is there any way to determine the mfg date or date range?

    The rod seems to only have threads near the knob. Seems like I need to replace the long rod...?

    I just got some citric acid (found some info on how to use it at the Coleman Collector's Forum) and plan to use it to help with the cleaning.

    Greatly appreciate the info. Thanks.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 27, 2015
  12. idahostoveguy

    idahostoveguy Subscriber

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    Nice PW three burner.

    As for your questions:

    #1: No currently produced parts but you may be able to find a PW junker to get parts from. The company that made these stoves hasn't been around for 60 years.

    #2: Oval shaped pan. The fuel will flow just under the generator and heat it up once you pull lever out to redirect fuel into it.

    #3: There is a gasket on the remaining part underneath everything. Sometime lead, sometimes cork. Can be replaced with O-ring or home made viton gasket.

    #4: Hard to see your label, but it looks like a #1.

    #5: It's very early. I would put it around the early 1920s. Very early. It might even be 1921 to 1923 or thereabouts.


    The long rod is the cleaning needle rod and only does cleaning. The shut off valve is actually near the control knob. I have a couple of PWs with no cleaning needle or rod and they work just fine, until something clogs the jet.


    sam
     
  13. pnw_rainboy

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    Thank you, Sam. Very much appreciate the info.

    Was concerned that the needle was a vital part for operation.

    Have been cleaning and polishing the tank, brass parts and doing a general de-grease. Will try to fire it up this weekend. Am not completely certain of the process, but figure it can't be too difficult. Might have more Qs.

    Just to be clear, the pre-heat pan is the cast iron, oval-shaped piece directly below the tube from the tank? There is a sheet metal pan-like piece at the very bottom, below the cast iron part which includes the first burner.

    Any suggestions regarding a currently available (in the U.S.) paint to use for the case? Something that would be close to the original?

    Very much appreciate everyone's input and help.

    Thanks again.
     
  14. idahostoveguy

    idahostoveguy Subscriber

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    You are most certainly welcome.

    Your #1 is not instant lighting so, priming is required in the cast iron part of your burner and not the sheet metal, besides it is closer to the generator anyway. I would fill it about half full of fuel or fill it with denatured alcohol and let that get the generator hot.

    Don't turn the knob on until the flame goes out. You will most likely get underburn (flame inside the burner head) if you do. Light the burner head from on top of it with a match/lighter/igniter of some sort after opening the fuel knob a turn or two. Should provide a silent blue flame as you turn the fuel knob open. Be sure and pressurize the tank before you light things up.

    On pressurizing the tank, I would turn the air inlet on your fuel filler about 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn OR as little as possible to allow air in at a good rate. That seems to work best for all the PW stoves I have. Pump about 25 to 30 pumps of air. If your pump is really efficient, it should get good pressure with less pumps. Close the air inlet, which is actually the check valve to allow pressure in but not back out as long as it is working properly. There's a ball bearing in the check valve which should be loose when there is no pressure. If you remove the fuel filler, you can hear it if you shake it. If you don't hear it, you'll have to clean the check valve up before you proceed, because it won't hold any pressure. It should hold pressure with the air inlet open after you've pumped air into the take a few pumps. Takes good pressure before it will actually work. Once there is pressure in the tank, the ball will rise up and make a seal. Close the air inlet tight so that the tank is safely sealed after pumping.

    Wait a minute: Have you done a pressure test??? Pressurize the tank with about 40 or 50 pumps without any fuel and dip the whole tank in water and check for leaks. If you see air bubbles coming out from anywhere on the tank, fuel filler cap or from the generator, stop right there and fix it. You can thank the forum later.

    Ok, back to the process, once the burner is lit, wait a minute or two for it to get hot before turning up the stove from medium to higher flames, otherwise, you'll could get a bunch of yellow flames and will have to slow it down or start over with the process. You may have to pump more air into the tank, but shouldn't have to since the stove is NOT instant lighting. Instant lighting stoves require you to use air in your tank to help with the lighting process without the need to prime. Since there is no instant lighting valve on your stove, you'll have to prime.


    By the way, make sure your other burners are turned off before starting the process. The above assumes the main burner.

    Well, I hope that helps, back to reloading ammo.


    sam
     
  15. Wisconsinite United States

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    Very nice stove yours is in much better shape than mine. I have the same stove. Mine says Model 1 on the nameplate. Someone used a brush to paint mine a hunterish green. The fuel tank and burners were painted silver. To the previous owner's credit, the paint may not look good, but it saved a treasure from rusting into scrap. My guage had the glass(?) broken out.
    I am currently working on it. I stripped the paint off, did an electrolysis bath to get the rust and paint that I couldn't reach off. I had a piece of mica, so I took apart and cleaned the guage, and used the mica as a glass cover. I have no idea if it will work, but it looks nice now. My genny still has the wire pricker tip, and someone brazed the end on. I am unable to remove the coil spring inside the genny, but carb cleaner goes through it and comes out clean. I have several projects in the works, so it will be a while until I see if this one works. I posted pics of mine on another thread in this section. I look forward to your progress report. When I get mine together and running, I will post pics.
     

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