I'v tried it, and the M1950 doesn't work on meths. The flame won't light properly. Maybe it's because the air gap is too big...

Mine is made by Rogers, and is equal to what is displayed under exploded veiws.

This stove is designed for use on leaded car  fuel, but on white-gas clogging is no problem.

Preheating is important, preheating with mets cause less soot.

DSK

Mine is exactly thesame as yours exept it's made by Fiesta.

It's supposed to run on petrol, but i'v heard of them burning brandy in emergincies. So, i rtried it with meths, and it didn't work.

I notice on my Primus 100 spiritbrannare that the jet aperture is considerably larger than on a kero or petrolburner. My assumption is that more volume of vapor is needed for proper burning of this less energetic fuel. Or is there another reason that meths require a bigger jet orifice?

In case of optimus 199, it has a restrictor for meths.
And it need another alcohol jet. To burn meths efficiently, more little air and more meths is necessary than kerosene. Alcohol jet's aperture is big, kerosene jet is middle, and gasoline is small.
Optimus hiker 111T case.
White gasoline : burning time 120m, boiling time 4m.
Kerosene : burning time 120m, boiling time 4m.
Alcohol with restrictor and standard nipple : burning time 120m, boiling time 9m. Alcohol with restrictor and alcohol nipple(#2508) :
burning time 90m, boiling time 5m.

Alcohol jets bigger.

This is true, including the optimus 11, and 111c jets.

According to a few inquiries. IT's do the to rapid expansion of liquid alcohol into a gass. It leaves air bubbles . Ex. A jet of air followed by a jet of alcohol, e.t.c....

The bigger the jet hole the slower the fuel stream.

Again the same problems of presure and alcohol.

This is interesting. My spiritbrannare pulses. Good blue flame with occassional fast yellow pulses. Perhaps the "bubbles" are what's happening.

Hi

Yellow pulses.. Hrmmm

It's definitly possible unless there was some residual
white gassoline or petrol in the tank.

Sometimes the bubbles problem is also called a vapor lock. It's when a vaccum froms in the tank that won't allow the fuel to be pulled up to the burner, only lighter air in the tank is expeled. If the fuel cap is just slightly unscrewed it lets air into the tank and you get a blow torch instead of a stove..

I did a test on a meths stove with about 1/2 fuel left in the tank, and the head was sputtering, I turned the sotve on it's side to get the remaining fuel up into the feed pipe.

The stove was placed upright imediately, and the sputtering stopped for about 45 secs- 1 min, then
started again. When the stove was turn on it's side then back up the flame went a little orange/yellow then back to blue.

This test obviously show that there is an air bubble problem. At least in the alcohol stove I tested.

Does that help?

yt

Northernflame

I'm working more with the Spiritbrannare. As the stove burns for awhile and gets good and hot, the pulsation reduces. It also likes a lot of pumping. The flame burns very blue, with the sudden yellow pulses now and then; this would seem to fit the bubble theory.
We all notice that when the spirit priming flame gets fully engaged, the spirit boils like crazy. This appears to be another way in which alcohol differs in burning characteristics from petrol and kero.
This is a stove for indoor use, I think. As I've said, it's a silent burner, but it roars more than hisses. I don't see that the pulsation would interfere with function. The adjustable feature is of minimal use; high seems to be the only way it really goes.
All in all, an interesting one.

Noted:

It still sounds like and air problem. Of course when the stove get's heated the alcohol expands to take the place of the air. Much the same as pre-heating a trangia in winter.

I'm working on another project to see if a general
regulator could be fasioned for alcohol fuel in stoves.

Again. Thanks for the chat. It has been enlightening.

Many years ago someone brought me a Svea 123 to repair -- said it wouldn't stay lit. I started it up; it ran great for a minute or two, then started a strange pulsating that got stronger, and finally blew the stove out. There was still enough pressure to relight the stove with a match, but the pulsation started again and soon blew the stove out. I questioned the owner -- he had "cleaned" the inside of the tank with alcohol. I figured the pulsing was caused by pockets of alcohol and water in the wick, and "repaired" his stove by letting it burn a couple of tanks of Coleman fuel, and immediately relighting it whenever it went out. At the time, I didn't know WHY the alcohol caused the stove to go out -- I figured there was probably water in the alcohol. I guess the "air bubble theory" could also explain it, but does alcohol really expand faster than gasoline?
....Arch

Just throwing in some aspects:

A)The boiling point is depending on temperature and pressure for a given liquid. It's the point, at which the innert pressure equals the outside pressure and gasbubbles form.
Higher pressure - higher innert pressure.

Example:
A pressure cooker as well as your car's engine cooling system utilize the same principle, but for different purposes:

The pressure inside the cooker prevents the water to boil at 100*C and raises the boiling point (probably around 20-30*C). The higher temperature cooks the food faster.
The car's engine cooling uses pressure to prevent the cooling liquid (water) to boil and form bubbles, which thus becomes ineffective for transporting heat away from sensitive parts of the engine.
BTW: This is also the reason you shouldn't open the filler cap on a hot engine: immediate pressure relief, immediate boiling, immediate hurt.

An aircraft (at altitude) utilizes pressure in the tanks to prevent 'foaming', or bubbles in the fuel.

B)Alcohol and Petrol mix, hence there shouldn't be any quantity of alcohol-in-petrol to speak of.

C)The wick is attracting water more than petrol. Any water in the Tank should therefore be found there. With all consequences.

Just my Two-cents, like I said.