Just finished fettling my first Optimus 22. A great stove though a tad on the large side for cycle camping.
Generally when fettling I'm OK making most consumables such as leather washers, lead washers, nitrile washers etc. To date I've not been able to make the little rubber 'mushroom' that sits on the end of the spring in the one-way pump valve. I've thought of trying to cut to shape a nitrile O-ring of the appropriate cross section. Have any of you cracked this one? (My money is on Albert!).
To date I've always rubbed the end of the rubber down using very fine emery paper and this so far has worked even on 'mushrooms' which have hardened somewhat ( eg todays' 22). But my luck must be about to run out. If I don't crack this one are the 'mushrooms' available as a spare part or do I have to buy a complete one way valve?

Hi,
I do not own 22, but I have made numerous "muchrooms" by punching out a pad of rubber of appropriate thickness for the fuel caps for 123s, 8Rs, and 111s. I used the rubber washer for the garden hose with satisfying results.

One caution: if you cut it too snug, it will absorb gas and increase its diameter slightly. Then it becomes very difficult to overcome the pressure and pump in the air. Others have access to nitrile rubber, but I don't, so I use what is available.

Hello Bark2much,
I aquired a 5' x 3' sheet of nitril rubber on e-bay. It is more than I need and will last me the rst of my life. It is approx 3/16" thick. If you would like to make me a wick for my Enders 9061 I would gladly cut you a piece of rubber for trade. Use your mouse to get my e-mail from my name next to the login link. Hopefully we can work a deal.

Chuck

Colin and others
What I use is a 4mm wod punch to cut these valve seals out. I believe a leather punch would be as good.
This seal should drop into the carrier with out forcing it. If it was to be turned upside down it will probably fall out.
If it is too wide and you force it into the carrier you will have high and low spots, this causing it not to sit on the seat properly. Then not sealing.
Originally this seal was made of cork but the later stoves are a nitrol. This seal is about 3mm thick. However if you use a seal this thick as you punch/cut it out it will squish and leave the bottom edge larger than the top. As your punch gets blunter the worse it gets.
I never go over 2.5 thick. normally I will cut 2 different thicknesses this is a 2mm also a 1mm thick. I often use both at once with the 1 mm in first then the 2mm.
The 1mm is only used as a packing really.
Albert

Hello,
Recently I purchased a cheap leather punch. When I use it to tap out seals they turn out in an 'hour-glass' shape. Seems as though the tool needs to be really sharp so you don't squish the rubber as you push through. Seems as though once again the old adage of you get what you pay for rings true.

Chuck

Hi,
I use the punch to cut out the rubber plugs, and the mid section gets thinner. It helps, if I rotate the punch left and right, as I tap the punch with a hammer. It takes longer, but if done right, the effect of having a "waist" is reduced. Also, if you have a very fine diamond file or whetstone, you can sharpen the edge by lightly rubbing against it while rotating with your fingers.

I will gladly make you a couple wicks, Chuck. Unfortunately, I forgot the number of strands it took to make it tight, so that no air would escape through. I do not want to take apart the stove any more, so I will make one complete one and a kit form, so that you can make the final adjustment yourself. As you can imagine, it is simple to fashion.

It turned out that the home-made one on Enders did not perform as same as the original in this manner: the stove does not burn to the last drop. About 1/2 inch of fuel is not picked up, when the stove blows out.

I do not know why, but other wicks I have made for 123 and 8R perform as good as the original. I have to look into the tanks, in order to tell which is home-made and which is original.

In case of Enders, however, the home-made wick does not seem to pick up every drop. But it DOES put up as good a blue flame as the other that has the original. After a few refining care, I am quite satisfied with the Enders. Both put up strong blue flames--7 inches high as seen in the dark.

I will post you, when I have a couple made.

Chuck With your wad pubch you are useing. If it is blunt i'll bet the first time you used it you hammered out on steel or some thing hard like that.
If so this will bugger the cutting edge on the punch every time. I will not alow any one to use my punches.
What you should be doing is get a piece of soft timber (lumber) (like pine) about 2"x2" and use the end of the timber where you cut it off, not the sides. Put your materal on this and then hit the punch. The punch will cut into the timber and not damage your punch.
A block of lead is reasonable as well but I think it is too hard as well.
Another cause of this shape is as I stated in yesterdays post this is the materal thickness has too much flex in it. So I like to use a thinner material.
Albert

Hi All,
Many thanks to those who responded to my request for help. I'm more confident now that I have your input and will try your suggestions.
Isn't this a great community ?