| peak1 stoveMay 3 2004 at 2:57 PM | adi brook |
| Just picked up a coleman peak 1 model 576. I got it at a boot sale for £4.
It's abit rusty and dirty, but holds pressure and (apparintly) works. I'll try it out myself tomorrow.
made in 1979.
Now i have 2 peak1's. This and the multifuel.
Interasting pump placement...
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| | Author | Reply | Ed Winskill
| Parallel evolution | May 3 2004, 6:20 PM |
I'm a real fan of the Coleman Peak stoves. I have a couple of multifuels, a 400, and a model called Mountaineer, which was a short-lived series that is a typical Peak petrolburner under a different logo. In addition, I've bought Peaks on eBay as gifts for kids and nephews, etc.
As a classicist, I prefer the single unit construction to the burner-and-fuel-bottle stoves.
The Coleman single burners represent a parallel evolution in North America to the Primus-type stoves of Europe and the UK. It's interesting how different approaches and solutions arise for the same application: cooking food outdoors on a camp or hike. One difference that we've talked about a lot is of course fuel. Kerosene fuel in the States has always been wholly secondary to petrol, both in stoves and pressure lanterns.
The brass classics are more beautiful by far than the Coleman petrolburners, but the unitary construction of the Colemans has great advantages in the field over the countless loose parts of the brass keroburner. And in my opinion, the "wafer"-type Coleman burner is a superior burner design. The classic silent burner in particular is sort of a weird proposition when you really think about it.
That said, I've got 40-plus brass keroburners, to a couple of Colemans that I even think of as collectables. |
| adi brook
| won't light | May 3 2004, 6:37 PM |
I have 2 now. A "moonlander" type multifuel, and this one. The multifuel is great, although it's not really multifuel, since to change fuels you have to change generators. I run it on kero.
I'm having some problems with the one i got from the bootsale. It doesn't seem to let fuel through, regardless of the position of the fuel valve or the cleaning lever. It is pressurised and everything.
I don't want to strip it down yet... I don't know alot about peak 1's. And anyway, with the generator, wher's the beginning and wher's the end? There seems to be control levers at both ends... |
| Ed Winskill
| Fettle me not on the lone prairie... | May 3 2004, 6:49 PM |
Alas, I've only bought them new. New Peak stoves are pretty often out there on eBay, and the few I've bought have been unused ones. As a fettler, you wouldn't want the expedition to depend on me! You're on your own, with of course a lot of help from the others here.
One thing about collecting the brass keroburners, you tend to reflect on the question of design, and in the case of those stoves, conservatism in design. Basically, the design was unchanged from 1911 or well before until the seventies, and of course they're still being made by the carloads in India and Asia. As domestic stoves, the design is highly reliable, and as outdoor stoves, certainly reliable enough.
As Peter has pointed out, the brass classic keroburner was a tremendously successful design in practice, and by far the greatest use was domestically, in the kitchen, something that we forget in our concentration on outdoor use. There was no real parallel in the States to the domestic primus in Europe, Asia, and the UK. Besides, daily use of petrol stoves in the kitchen would be very unadviseable, simply because if you use such a stove and fuel it hundreds of times a year indoors, the chances of bad fire increases greatly.
On the other hand, when the power is out, or the kitchen is being remodeled here, out comes the Coleman suitcase. |
| adi brook
| reliability | May 3 2004, 6:54 PM |
Yeh, i wouldn't want to strip that down in the middle on nowhere in the wind and rain and freezing temps and no tools.
The best thing for that is probably the M1950. That has all you need for a complete service in the pump.
Still, i will try to fettel the peak 1... |
| bark2much
| Your Peak 1 | May 3 2004, 10:29 PM |
Hi, Adi,
Your Peak 1's burner is similar to 400 series'.
In order to remove the generator, remove the two phillips screws from the bracket directly above the pump unit. The jet is integral to the generator, and it is merely inserted into the little expansion chamber directly under the burner.
Loosen the nut on the other end of the generator. I think it takes 7/16 wrench. The generator tube is bendable, so carefully remove it from the connecting points. You will see the jet attached at one end, a nut connecting to the fuel tank on the other (if there is only one lever, then it functions as both the shutoff and cleaning valve). As you turn the cleaning lever back and forth, you should be able to observe the cleaning needle moving back and forth through the jet.
Remove the screw in the center of the burner plate, and the rest of the wafer rings can be lifted up. But do make sure you remember the stacking sequence of both smooth and rippled rings.
Now you can look inside the chamber and see if there is a bird nest or anything that is blocking the fuel flow.
Now is a good time to blowtorch the generator, since it is already removed. Any carbon deposit that is blocking the fuel (that's probably what's causing you the trouble) will burn off.
Show me the blue, when you are through!
Hey, it rhymes. |
| dave gibson
| very easy fettle.. | May 4 2004, 4:18 AM |
adi..
i just took apart my old peak for a total overhaul and it's
very easy..no tricks or "trade secrets" to any of it. everything comes off any go's back on in a real obvious way.
if anything is tight put a shot of dw-40 on it and let it set
overnite..like bark said keep the burner plates in order and thats it.. | |
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