1930s Primus 71

Discussion in 'Primus No:71' started by Bob Gibbon, Jun 27, 2017.

  1. Bob Gibbon

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    Hi there, I'm new to this and was initially looking about the internet to try and find some age clues to a Primus 71 my parents gave me recently as they were clearing out their attic. I guess from other posts it is from around 1930 to 39. My Parents are both in their 80's this year and as such I guess they may have inherited it themselves, I seem to remember them saying it was my Grandfather's originally I didn't give it much thought at the time... I'll quiz them again later.
    If anyone's got any more info such as how to check the wick etc, it would be greatly appreciated.

    I was thinking of selling it, but it looks too fun for that now...

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  2. Majicwrench

    Majicwrench Subscriber

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    Those sets are super-cool, I want one. But I will let the experts tell you more about dates etc.

    To test the wick....I would light it!! It probably needs a fill cap gasket, which you can get several diff place. The tank has to build a little pressure from the heat of the burner, so you need a good seal.

    Tis your stove, and I want it bad, but I would never ever sell that if my folks gave it to me.
    Thanks for posting.
     
  3. shueilung.2008

    shueilung.2008 Subscriber

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    Welcome to the site @Bob Gibbon !

    You have one of the early models of the #71E, I guess 1932 to 1939, and it's in very good shape! If you enjoy the outdoors, you will be using it soon (even an afternoon brew at the backyard counts) :D

    Cheers

    Enrique
     
  4. shagratork

    shagratork United Kingdom Moderator, R.I.P. Subscriber

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    Yes your stove is from the 1930s. Have a look here.

    The valve assembly on the Primus 71 is very similar to that on the Svea 123. Have a look here.
     
  5. SGL70

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  6. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  7. Ray123

    Ray123 Subscriber

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    Yes. lighting it up is the easiest wick test. Only other way is to remove the burner stem from the tank and pull the wick out and have a look.
    A Fettlebox reserve cap washer is a good fit on my similar 71 fill cap.

    For some reason there isn't always a date code on the 71's from the 1930's. Mine doesn't have one.
     
  8. shueilung.2008

    shueilung.2008 Subscriber

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    @Bob Gibbon in your model of P71, as it has no exagonal nut on the vapourizer tube like this one:

    IMG_8173.jpg Credit: Tony Press

    I suggest using the presscall method:

    Primus #71 1931_1937 John presscall 0.JPG Primus #71 1931_1937 John presscall 01.JPG

    Cheers

    Enrique
     
  9. Bob Gibbon

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    Thanks everyone. What a great community. There isn't a date code as far as I can see, but I'll settle for 1930something :)
    I tried lighting it with partial success. It builds up pressure as the fuel bubbles up out of the top with hand warming but when lit it doesn't really light properly, once the flame up dies down there's just a small single flame...no roar...no real heat and it goes outo easily. It seems like the nozzle is partially blocked? Is that a thing? I'll upload a pic tomorrow. Thanks again :)
     
  10. Ray123

    Ray123 Subscriber

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    It is possible the jet is partially blocked. I see in one of your pics that you do have the wire jet pricker so you can try that but it sounds like the pressure is too low. It could be the fill cap leaking or not enough preheating. Because these little guys are self pressurizing you need a good preheat. We generally use denatured alcohol or meths to preheat rather than hand warming and allowing fuel from the tank to drip down. Fill the preheat well to the top, maybe even twice if needed to get the burner good and hot. If you're outside use a wind block so the preheat flame isn't blowing away from the burner. Also, you have to only fill the tank 3/4 full to allow air space and you need to open the cap before every use to allow air in and pressures to equalize to avoid a vapor lock.

    As the others have said this is a beautiful example of a 1930's Primus 71. The round windscreen/pot holder is not as common as the sheet metal rectangular cases.

    As I was editing and daydreaming Tony added some good advice!:lol:
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2017
  11. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Bob Gibbon

    1. Before resorting to taking the vapouriser off the stove, I suggest replacing the filler cap seal; pricking the jet to clear it; and giving it a good long prime with methylated spirit (doesn't leave soot all over the place like gasoline).

    Insufficient pressure caused by a bad seal or not enough priming makes it behave as you observe.

    2. Before lighting, fill the tank 3/4 with fuel and let it sit for 15 mins if it's been dry. That ensures the wick gets soaked before lighting.

    3. Your flame might be yellow to start; or it might be blue but turn yellow. If so, let it burn for another 10 minutes and see if the flame improves. My test is to put a pot of water on to boil. If it boils without having black soot that comes off with a wipe of your finger, the flame is good to go.

    4. If the flame is uniformly yellow after running about a full tank, and leaves soot, it's time to change either the jet or the wick or both. Change the nipple (jet) first; then if necessary, the wick.

    Great set up you have!

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  12. ArchMc

    ArchMc SotM Winner Subscriber

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    You are using white gas/Coleman fuel/panel wipe for fuel, right?

    Really nice outfit and yes, way too much fun to sell.

    ....Arch
     
  13. Rangie

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    As an addendum, just because it hasn't been mentioned above.... You are sufficiently pre-heating the unit, yes?

    Alec.
     
  14. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Rangie

    See my point 1. :lol:

    Cheers

    Tony