Fettling a Turley and Williams No. 3

I know that a couple of people around here are starting to work on Turley and Williams stoves like mine.

Mine will take a while to complete, but I thought I would post some "work in progress" photos to assist others going through the process.

In doing this, I've actually reassembled the stove somewhat, in order to not repeat mistakes I made pulling it down the first time.


I'll post more photos as I go along.



As it came:




1. Generators and fuel control.




What I found out after fiddling around with this stove is that the easiest way to take the generator apart is to start with the nipple (jet). That's because there is a metal coil spring inside the generator and the control needle fitting won't pull back through the generator. It has to be removed so the pricker rod can then be pulled out backwards through the generator.







A 7/16 inch spanner fits nicely.


Flat, small pliers for the pricker fitting (I now have some tiny stainless steel spanners that fit):








Then unscrew the generator:



Pricker rod in place



Then unscrew the regulator wheel screw:






Unscrew the packing nut:






Alternatively, unscrew the packing nut with the control knob in place:












Unscrew the brass screw on the top of the regulator fitting (note: I've already re-faced this rather worn screw):




Take off the regulator fittings with their fuel pick-up:






The bits revealed so far:





Getting the spring out of one of the generators required some heat and a lot of carburettor cleaner.



More to follow.

[ @teckguy_58 ]


Cheers

Tony

 

Hi Tony,

It looks like your stove is in much better condition then mine it that is for sure. Well at least your pickup tubes aren't sheared off or have dental floss for a sealant or a bunch of epoxy to hold things together.

It looks like you are coming along with the fettle of this stove.

I'm looking forward to seeing this stove shine.

Cheers,
Norman

 

2. Fuel tank, pump and NRV




Take out the pump.



You need a very big spanner for the removable pump. I used my biggest shifting spanner.




All the bits.



Detail of the pump and NRV:







Cheers

Tony

 

Hi Tony,

Well documented and thanks for sharing.

It will be nice to see the old girl up and going again.
It may become one of the stove you take on some of your excursions.

Cheers,
Norman

 

3. The burners

This beast has been fairly badly neglected (not as bad as some, Norman!), so there is rust and seized parts.

My advice is to take the burner off by undoing the front bolt (lower of the three in the photos) and remove the burner:







Then apply heat and penetrating oil to the rusty screws in the burners.




Some of the screws were badly damaged and needed reshaping.



One burner came apart reasonably easily.


The asbestos sheet that sits underneath the top section of the burner.





One screw was badly damaged and I had the cut a new slot. I have bought replacement 3/16 x 24tpi screws.






Now to clean up the parts.


Cheers

Tony

 

@Tony Press
Excellent work Tony and a fine resource for anyone encountering one of these and their age-related and user-generated issues.

John

 

Tony, those burner parts are great candidates for an electrolysis bath. They'll clean up great with little effort.

Press on!

 

@cottage hill bill

I actually went a little bit more conservation than that because I didn’t want to loose any more material on the circular flame rings.

First I gave them a soak in citric acid; cleaned them with a kitchen scourer; then soaked them in rust converter; and lastly, washed off the residue of the rust converter and cleaned them again with a kitchen scourer. Lastly, I heated slowly in an oven to get rid of any moisture.

I’ll post some photos tonight after I reassemble them.

If ever I needed to replace those circular flame rings with the little holes (see above photo) I would cut them from a Primus-type silent burner outer cap. It might been a small spacer to enlarge the diameter slightly, but it would work, I think.

Cheers

Tony

 

Tony, to the best of my knowledge electrolysis doesn't remove any measurable amount of material. It does break down the ferrous oxide so you will lose the rust but it does not damage or remove material from the sound metal.

 

@cottage hill bill

Sorry, my mistake in writing without really thinking.

You are indeed correct.

I was thinking more about setting up the system when I had all the other stuff to hand.

Cheers

Tony

 

4. The fuel pickups.

These things are indeed mysterious!

The one on the right has the outer tube removed, revealing the inner fuel tube.





Note in this photo, the hole at the top of the outer tube. [There's one on the other side as well]




This very helpful diagram posted by @Pete Marshall here, explains that this outer tube is "tube, air and carburettor" [19].




I took the jet off the bottom of one of the the fuel pickups. As the other jet had been damaged by some previous brute force, I placed the pickup in a vise, and used padded multi-grips to unscrew the jet.


The jet may have had some thread sealer, or maybe this is just the residue of long use and dirty fuel.


The jet.



You can see in this photo below that the other jet (left hand side) has a chunk missing off its outer rim. Having seen the simplicity of the jet arrangement above, I left it in place and gave it a good clean with carburettor cleaner.




Note: Neither fuel pickup has the gauze that is identified in the above schematic at [21].


Now some interesting observations:


The inner fuel tubes are different lengths, the longer being 78.4mm, the shorter being 74.7mm. This means that in one pickup the tube actually sits on the jet over the hole. In the other the tube is 3+mm above the jet.



The fuel tubes have different internal diameters. The shorter tube has the smaller diameter.



The casting of the fuel control blocks are different,



When initially disassembled, I noted that the bottom of the control block had a very hard washer.








I note in the schematic above that this washer is identified as "Washer, synthetic" [23].



I spent a few hours repairing the fuel tank bracket, so now I can start to get the fuel system operating.



Cheers

Tony

 

Well... I've got it to light (sort of). As I said above this is a long term project and I'm taking it very slowly to make sure I know what's happening at each step.


Right hand burner (first test light: you can see that there is flame coming from the back end of the nipple).



Left hand burner. More tuning to do yet.






Cheers

Tony

 

5. A little bit of electrolysis.

Prompted by a comment above from @cottage hill bill, I decided to put the burner bits through a session of electrolysis (using Sodium Carbonate and 12 volts; negative to the burner bits) to get ris of the last of the rust.







After electrolysis, I made a "pull through" to clean the inside of the burner casting.





The end result, after a wash in citric acid, and a brush up with steel wool.



Cheers

Tony

 

Tony, great job so far! You might want to try multiple anodes in your electrolysis set up. Since it is somewhat a line-of-sight process having at least two anodes will yield better results. I'm currently using 3-4 old lawn mower blades spaced equally around the bucket in my 5 gallon set up.

Looking forward to seeing future progress.

 

@cottage hill bill

Funny you should mention multiple anodes.

As a result of me deciding to do the electrolysis, I then went and got some scrap 5 inch mild steel flat bar to make anodes with, and some 1 inch flat bar to use for the negative and to hang things off. So now I will set the bucket up as a permanent electrolysis kit.

Cheers

Tony

 

My first set up was a 5 gallon bucket. I had some 1/4" X 1" flat bar. I cut it to length, drilled holes in one end and in the bucket and bolted six pieces of bar around the bucket. I wrapped a piece of heavy copper wire around the bolts on the outside leaving one end long enough to connect my power supply to. After every 3-4 uses I'd hang a large tin can in the center and reverse polarity to clean the anodes. It finally gave up the ghost after about 10-12 years of service. I'm using old lawn mower blade as anodes now. they work a treat.

 

I have not stopped working on the T&W, but I needed a sabbatical because it is a downright difficult beast! I am working on it one hour at a time between other project - in order to keep my sanity.

Here is what I did a few week ago, with gentle prompting from @presscall, to re-attach the sprung tank bracket using solder:


The sprung bracket.



Trussed and ready to solder. The tank had been tinned beforehand.






Solder cleaned up.




I now need to thoroughly check the tank for leaks seals, etc, but the big job it to get the correct fuel flow from the tank to the burners. I'm not there yet.


Cheers

Tony

 

@Tony Press
Great progress Tony.

John

 

A true labour of love....

Best regards,

Wim

 

Holy Cow. That is a complicated stove. I would surmise that Turley and Williams had some German designers working for them. Ha