Positive. They are not common, but Ive had two different ones over the years, one with a steel tank made a different way than normal. Both had wire supports, unlike the stamped steel Ls of the normal 34s. Also, my Arara 37 has twist locking lids, different than yours. My Wiktorin has screw threads like that, though.
Box from my first one with weird steel tank. Box art shows unstrapped can. Sadly this stove was stolen along with a rucksack.
Also, some wartime production Juwels had twist on lids, the Juwel 33u I think its called. Possibly an effort to make them all more or less standard in some way. See here. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/juwel-33u-steel-tank.14183/
OK. I get it . Twist on lids, as opposed to screw-on lids. Yes, that is most definitely not an Arara 37. Standardization might have been one objective, saving on strap material may have been another. Another poster, a few weeks back, said he had an Arara 37 with strap-on lids. Who knows? [No pix.] Interesting, a Svea 123U is a bare stove w/o cup and windscreen.
Hi, I found some Juwel 34 on the Dutch market place. Having read the articles on this site I found out that the older ones had round pot legs. But i wonder if someone can explain something about the angle of the valve against the tube. Some have an angle of 45 degrees while others have the valve pointed somewhat downwards. Does that possibly have to do with age also? I have a brass burner without the tin, my valve is pointed down and has a bit different tanklid with a square on the top. Regards, Ton.
It must have something to do with age. You will notice the older ones, whether brass or steel tanked, usually have downward angling valve, and all the slots in the side of the windscreen are the same length, because any of them will line up with the valve. The newer stoves, with the stamped sheet metal pot supports have one longer slot for every three or four normal ones. The key can only access the valve through the longer slots. However - I have seen the "older" type in boxes with more recent dates than the "newer" types - there must have been some overlap in the late 60ies, early 70ies.
Thanks, now I know for sure I already thought, both of the two 34th on the market place are later ones. Regards, Ton.
About the brass burner I mentioned, with the square top on the tanklid, is that some sort of security valve as well? Should I be able to unscrew the circle in the square section? And if it is some sort of security, can it be or must it be inspected? This one burns beautifully by the way. Regards, Ton.
Hi Ton Yes - under that screw is the Safety Return Valve located. Since it can be very hard stuck - you can give it some thin oil (WD-40/Caramba....) and let it soak for a couple of hours before unscrewing it. When getting a new stove I always check that the spring works and the pip-holder is not stuck.
Good morning, back again. After a night soaking I managed to take it apart: On the left there are two rings, could that be some sort of adjustment? The third from the left side is the plunger, further to the right is a rubber top of the plunger to hold everything tight under normal operation, then the screw and pressure spring. I wonder, is there some way to test it? And another thing I wonder, suppose the pressure gets too high, and the valve opens, is there no risk of firing the damp coming out? Regards, Ton.
If the valve opens due to overpressure, it's very likely the released vapor will ignite. This is better than the tank rupturing, which the safety valve is designed to prevent. ....Arch
If the spring is “springy” and not stiff - its good. The rubber pip seated in the plunger must have a little softness in order to seal against the tiny opening inside the filler lid. If the rubber pip is completly hard, then you should change it. Can’t recall if mine has the two small washers - I would just remount them in the same place. I can check mine if needed?
I think I will change the two washers because they are rusty . The spring is fresh and will make a new pip. To be continued. Regards , Ton
I have never seen these two washers in one of my Juwel 33 and 34 and 84. I guess someone added these, because the spring was not strong enough. Maybe the spring is not original and someone replaced it with a shorter one? Ciao, Bastian
One never knows what has happened during all those years Bastian, and like Harder says no rings seen. Therefor i skip the rings. Talking about rings, is it common there is a ring in the screw part meeting the spring there? And maybe a tricky question, should anyone know the overall length of the spring? Another detail I was surprised about was the shape of the part the rubber tip is resting in, it is hexagon shaped on the outside, but there is obviously nothing to screw there. Anyhow, it helps someone to pass, getting through a rainy saturday. Regards, Ton.
Only white gas, "Coleman fuel". I think one of my instruction sheets says ordinary auto gas can be burnt but it is smoky.
Thanks. I have a MEVA stove and it burns better with Coleman fuel that Kerosene. I never try regular gasoline.
@Vince.S In the old days - Gasoline didn’t have all them modern additives for lubing modern car engines. They run best and longest on CF or similiar. That way you dont clog up the regulator/spindle and jet. I wouldn’t run them on kero neither. I use my Juwel 34 and Meva on a regular basis since they rung strong for their size and because my 34 actually is not that bad a simmer at all.