111c that dont close when burner is hot

I have a 111c burner that Closes when burner is Cold (i can pump pressure on the tank With closed regulating valve, and no leak) but when the burner is hot (primed) its not closed anymore. I have tried different spindels(regulator spindle) With the same result, opens when the burner gets hot.
What can the problem be?


(sorry for bad English, i'm from Sapmi )

 

Do you have very fine emery paper, grinding paste, or steel wool?

It seems you may have bad mating between the spindle and the burner.

Try to clean the surface of the burner where the spindle joins.

Tony

 

I think you may be right. If thats not the issue there might be a crack somewhere that opens when hot?
I do have some grinding paste for car valves. But, should i make a pin With the same angle as the spindle for grinding, or should i spend a spindle for the work?

 

Use the spindle for the work. Gently tighten and loosen it about a hundred times.

Cheers

Tony

 

So a flame appears at the jet towards the end of priming?
A crack in a burner shows itself as a wisp of ‘smoke’ (actually vaporised fuel) that usually ignites from the burner flame.

I wonder if the jet pricker rack is set too low (counting ‘clicks’) - just a fraction, that allows the spindle to seal only when the burner’s not hot. Removing the pricker temporarily to see if that’s the problem would test that theory.

Otherwise, you’ve tried different spindles so it does put the focus on the valve seat.

Thing is with using the spindle that the threads on it drive it into the valve seat, so no rotation on the seat is possible to get the grinding paste to work.

If you could accurately machine a tip of the correct angle on a steel rod of a diameter just less than the peak diameter of the valve internal threads, that would give you your grinding tool. Or, with a number of spare spindles, grind the threads off one to achieve the same. Remove burner from stove, remove jet and pricker and thoroughly wash out residual grinding paste with solvent afterwards.

Good luck!

John

 

Maybe very sharp point Dremel grinding tool would work also:

 

I have tried it without the needle/pricker to eliminate that possibility. Still leaks out of the jet after some priming. "Starts the fire" if i pump up pressure. If i wait to the priming is stopped before i pump up pressure it leaks gas first and Liquid parrafine after a while (still from the jet)

But why is it not leaking when Cold?

 

@presscall - does this model have that characteristic?(the # of "clicks" on the teeth engagement)

Because I'd sure want to try that first.

 

I have tried it without the needle/pricker to eliminate that possibility.

 

@Fettler said,

111C Hiker I’m thinking of does, yes.

I think you’ve already hit on the possibility that it’s to do with the movement of metal components due to thermal expansion. That would be my best guess.

 

I think something happends with the metal when it turnes hotter. But how to solve that?

 

maybe you could ‘tin’ the tip of the spindle (needle valve). this might help the needle tip to
seat properly thus making a fuel tight seal after priming.
this technique works on lanterns.
someone here i’m sure could explain how to do it.

buzz

 

When it is hot, look for the exact location it is leaking.
Is it liquid or vapor?

Pump up the tank and prime, observing where it leaks.
Take the caps off and prime it, also observing where it leaks.

Take a few photos and zoom in where the leak seems to be.

Heat and quench can sometimes crack brass. It can also sometimes crack a joint.
Priming and then opening the fuel line can be a shock that results in a crack. I have learned to open the valves slowly after a prime.

 

I found the leak. Was not in the chamber but outside. Just looked like it was in the valve. The burner is cracked.

 

Good detective work. Are you able to repair it? Silbrazing (‘hard’ soldering) will be required.

 

Can you post photos of the area it leaks?

 

I changed the spindle to eliminate leaks trough the valve, so it stopped leaking there. Probably leaked it there too, but now i found the leak on top of the burner that flows dovn the burner if not on fire. It leaks on top of the burner, around the senterpipe that has 4 holes in it. And by some reason this site wont allow me to upload a Picture here.

 

If you click on the button saying "Upload a file" (under the message field), you should be able to upload pictures that you have stored locally on your computer, phone or tablet.

 

I tried. "The uploaded file does not have an allowed extension."

So i copied a Picture i had in another thread and marked red where the 111C leaks…

 

@Lumberjack

That area can be brazed with hard solder (silbrazed) to repair the leak:

Repairing a Badly Damaged Optimus No. 199 Burner

Tony