1. Littledre

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    This is a 111 newly fettled. It never came with the embossed case but beggars can't be choosers. The case was stripped to bare metal using caustic soda mixed with water and wall paper paste, it was then finished off with fine wire wool and 4 coats of paint to cover up some of the cases sins.
    1249767576-P1030100_opt.jpg 1249767592-P1030101_opt.jpg 1249767611-P1030099_opt.jpg
    This is the third 111 I have finished this week and here it is pictured with its two brothers. From left to right 111T, 111 and my 111B
    1249767689-P1030097_opt.jpg 1249767710-P1030102_opt.jpg
    Had to get me tomato and chilli plant in, sorry.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 27, 2015
  2. Big Si

    Big Si Subscriber

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    You have been busy mate this week, I'm back from my gollies by the end of this week soooo, I think I may make a start on mine. It is looking good, what colour paints have you found? Did you use the wood burner paint that Bill has used mate? Come on and tell us all more?

    Si
     
  3. Littledre

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    Hi Si, you got it mate, the same paint as Bill used, it covers up lot's of bad bits. This was my first 111, it came from Bill and after some hard negotiating I managed to prize it away for a fair price, I also got the cooking storage tins with it.
     
  4. Big Si

    Big Si Subscriber

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    Nice one mate! Does the paint come in any other colour than"Black Opps"?

    Si
     
  5. Littledre

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    Here you go Si, Link Black is the only stove paint colour but they do a good range of other paints. I have used some of them and they are better than the Halfords paints. B&Q stock plasti-kot paint but don't use their metallic sealer its a pain. Use Halfords clear lacquer to seal your paint job, its easy to apply and a can goes a long way.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2015
  6. blzeebub

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    Hi all. Your thread caught my eyes as I'm restoring some Optimus 8R and 111 tins and have used primer then automotive paint. In your opinions, is it really necessary to use lacquer on top of primer then automotive paint? I'm told the latter is, by its very nature, pretty heat resistant as it has to cover e.g. car bonnets with hot engines underneath etc. I'm trying to save a bit of time and money but if you think it's really necessary, I will do it. Thanks :-)
     
  7. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    I have not used lacquer myself on a stove case.
    I read this thread and cannot find where he said he used lacquer between the primer and paint.
     
  8. blzeebub

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    Hi snwcmpr

    Thanks for your response. I've just re-read my post and realised I miss-typed the order of use of the different types of coating. That'll teach me to check my posts before uploading! I just meant using lacquer to finish the job off, i.e. was it necessary to use lacquer after having used primer then a top coat of automotive paint. It was Littledre who mentioned using lacquer in the post just above mine, but wasn't sure if it was essential or not.

    Thanks again for your reply.
     
  9. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    There are several that currently use that method. It has been a method long used.
    @kerophile @Tony Press and others might be more informed on that.
     
  10. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    The use of lacquer:

    1. Use a lacquer or a automotive clear coat over polished brass if you want to keep the shine and protect the surface.

    2. I use automotive clear coat over paint that is not fuel resistant (gloss or matt depending on what finish I want).

    3. I use automotive clear coat over automotive paint on hard working surfaces like 111 boxes.

    Be sure to allow the paint or lacquer to cure. I bake my paints at 65°C or 94°C depending on the paint specification.

    Cheers

    Tony

    @blzeebub
     
  11. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    I let the paint on the Optimus 8 that I painted cure for at least a week between coats, and a month after the last coat.
     
  12. blzeebub

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    Thank you all for your replies, they are much appreciated. I had no idea repainting these tins was so 'involved', I was hoping to find some 'quick-dry' lacquer if it exists but don't want to start cutting corners at this stage. Glad I asked the question, though with no chance of camping this year due to he lock-down, it's not like I don't have the time to do it...!

    I'll keep monitoring the thread for any more views on this and related issues, but in the meantime, thanks again.
     
  13. blzeebub

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    Can anyone please advise me on using primer on the case of a 111?

    After treating the rust on the tin then sanding it down, I’ve used spray grey primer and built it up in layers as advised on the can, but the effect looks as if the metal underneath is pitted, which it isn’t. It seems to be the effect of the primer, which is also flaking in places. Is this normal, and should I expect to sand it before I apply the colour topcoat, or have I done something wrong to cause this effect?

    Thanks.
    BLZ
     
  14. Twoberth

    Twoberth United Kingdom Subscriber

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    I use Halfords primer, either grey or red depending on the top coat.

    Shake well and spray thinly leaving ten minutes between coats (the primer dries much quicker than gloss top coats). Don’t try to cover all the metal in one primer coat, I probably spray the primer on in six or more very thin coats turning the tin around and over between sprays. I do it outside on windless days with no sanding between coats.
     
  15. Twoberth

    Twoberth United Kingdom Subscriber

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  16. blzeebub

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    Hi twoberth

    Thanks for your reply. It’s Halford’s grey primer that I’ve been using in exactly the way you describe, gradually building up layers, but your case looks smooth and even. Mine’s not quite as professional a finish as yours.

    I may see if the flaking stops or is restricted to small areas, and apply a layer or two of the colour paint and just see what happens. This whole refurb has been a series of trial and errors. Mainly errors!

    Cheers
    BLZ