I'm thinking of making a brass windscreen for a 111T. I know I can make one from a tin can, but I'm looking for an excuse to practice some brass brazing. I'm planning on using some brass sheet, forming it around a wood cylinder, and brazing the seam. Then I will cut out the slots for the fuel line and spindle. I might cut the slots before I form it. I'm not sure yet. Does anyone have the dimensions of the stock 111T windscreen? I'm looking for the thickness/gauge, height, and diameter. I want to make a reasonably close replica.
Three 111T's checked, one 111D. Three 111Ts - windshield made of seamless brass tubing Gauge - 0.025"-0.030" Height - 58, 59 and 60mm Diameter - Inside diameter is slightly greater than the 68+mm diameter of the rim of the burner skirt. Ie, just make yours to fit snugly and don't stress it 111D - brass spot welded lap joint, approx, 6mm overlap Gauge - 0.018" Height - 55.25mm Diameter - as noted above. All hang on the burner skirt from three small folded tabs. You can braze yours, or, use brass or copper rivets. Three does the trick.
Thanks! I'll post some pics (if it goes well). Still waiting on my stove. I'll post some pics of it as well when it arrives.
There are always these from eBay seller kkn4602 in Korea if you want to avoid the work and pay for it instead. Though they do look a bit shorter than the originals with no cut-outs and all. I like the rolled edge. Look forward to the pics. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321265505338?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Hello Gary! These windscreens for a 111 would be a worthy project to take on if you decide, this is a super idea as it would be an upgrade I for one would need at least three. Supposing these are produced they might be adapted for use on a 199. Though shorter.
Chef BC, I linked to a reasonably priced source in Korea in the above post for simple seamless windshields. If those seem too much money for you, then I can assure you my work would be beyond your means. Here's a free layout for a 111T windshield. It's a jpg file. Download it from the image menu at the bottom of the post. Print at full-size, 100% in your printer set-up. As a check for size, the body of the windshield should measure 60mm high without the tabs. The burner slot is shown as adjustable to fit the set-up you have. The layout is showing the inside of the windshield so that any scribe marks will be inside the shield when you roll it up. Adjust the fit by overlapping more of the ends indicated on the layout. Printing this out and doing some simple work with brass sheet might be a good fettling experience for those who have done little on their own in the past. I recommend rivets over brazing.
Thank you Gary for the download and I am going to try to get some brass sheet from McMaster Carr and give it a try in the next couple weeks.
Hi Dan I would recommend Online Metals over McMaster-Carr for all metals you may consider. Here in the USA they tend to be less expensive by a goodly margin than other metal distributers/sellers. http://www.onlinemetals.com They also sell their patented Cut-Away Metal Repair Spray which I have found very helpful when I make the occasional error. http://www.onlinemetals.com/cutaway.cfm Cheers, Gary
Thanks for the template! I started work using some 0.032" sheet I got at my local hardware store. It seems a bit thick and heavy for a windscreen, but at least it will hold up to some abuse. While cutting the brass sheet, I found it to be easily fatigued, and I was worried the tabs would break while bending them, so I annealed it with a torch. After that bending, was pretty easy. I cut a 68mm diameter wood cylinder for rolling the sheet, and pulled it tight with some hose clamps, then backed off the clamps a bit so I could get the wood cylinder out. Worked great! Now I just need to fix it closed. My two 111t stoves arrived. Got both for $65 including shipping from a CL post. I'll post them in another post once I get the camera out. They are pretty rough, but not terrible. They are not multi-tool versions, so time to make a jet and NRV removal tool. Removing the jets with the little wrench is a PITA!
I learned a trick recently. Mark a piece you want to anneal with a sharpie. When you have heated it enough to fade the sharpie mark, it's done. It was a jewelry class, and the instructor said it worked with copper and silver. I use it for brass, too. I love that Cut Away. I received it yesterday and put it right next to my unopened one gallon can of dehydrated water. Ken in NC
I had some trouble printing the windscreen template at 100%. My programs insisted on scaling it to allow for borders on the paper. I imagine my printer cannot print zero margins. I've attached a cropped version that I used for printing in case anybody wants it. It printed (at least for me) to perfect scale, 60mm tall.