Ken, looks like the check valve has been beat from what little I can see with my trifocals and a light; think best just to get the remover tool, any suggestions on sources for check valve? Lou
Old Coleman Parts (Sponsor of Coleman Collectors Forum), eBay, Canon joe, lanternking, and probably some I can't think of. There are some posts somewhere on the internet about removing them. I forgot where. Ken in NC
Ken, went ahead and purchased the removal tool; the valve looks like it has been screwed with and the grooved where the screw driver blade goes is very rough and worn; will let it sit with kroil oil and alt. with paint thinner; hopefully she will come out easy Lou
George; got your seals in the mail today. Wow, thanks sooo much; got started on the frankenstove. Took off the burner and replaced the seals; I did a pressure check from the filler hole after removing the plunger and its cup BUT screwing in the needle and the needle valve manually; got a good seal even with over 100 Lbs pressure. Filled about 1/2 to 2/3rds and pumped it up manually got a bit of pressure and lit it up after using denatured alcohol to preheat the burners; wow!! One shut off and the other did not seems like kerosene was seeping and filling the preheat cup Problems. Trying to figure how/why? The preheat cup is filling with kero?? Is the needle rod too short? For it to engage unless I remove plunger with leather cup? Lou
Ho Lou, Probably far too much pressure. 1. Remember that these kerosene pressure stoves were only intended to use a tank pressure or 1-2 bar, or 14-30psi. 2. If the tank is over-pressurised and you open the regulator too wide, or too soon you will overwhelm the burner with liquid kerosene, rather than the kerosene vapour that is required. That is why you get flaring yellow flames and liquid kerosene in the spirit cup. 3. With the tank 2/3rds full, you should only need around 10, or at most, 20 pumps to pre-pressurise the tank. 4. Once the burner is pre-heated sufficiently, open the regulator valve gently, just sufficient to establish a stable blue flame on the burner. 5. Now leave the burner alone for a few minutes to allow it to get up to operating temperature. 6. You can now open the regulator valve a bit more and if needed, you can pump more air into the tank. Good Luck. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi Lou, have a look at Gary's video for general principles of silent burner stove operation: Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi Lou, here are two good links for understanding what goes on mechanically inside a regulated burner and how to service it: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/15697 https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/8843 Best Regards, Kerophile.
this is why the separate controls/burners are so appealing; promised pancakes to the family this morning and since both this Frankenstove and the 155 are out of commission whipped out the beat up BUT reliable Coleman suitcase stove; the main burner is always hot and the aux is always a LOT cooler as the aux feeds off the main both pancakes were placed at the same time! right is over the main the left over the aux burner. Lou
another ignorant question; on Colemans you pressurize the system first; on Optimus after lighting/preheating I pressurized the Coleman/Optimus system before preheating which way should I go? treat the system as a Coleman or as an Optimus appreciate all input + suggestions; Lou
Hi Lou, if the burners are valved off it doesn't matter if you pressurise before or after with the Optimus burners using kerosene fuel....As long as the pressure in the tank is not too high. 10 to 20 pumps with a 2/3rds filled tank is adequate. What you must understand is that kerosene is much harder to vaporise than gasoline, so when the burner is pre-heated sufficiently, you should only open the burner valve sufficient to get a blue flame. Then leave the stove alone for a few minutes for the burner to heat up to operating temperature, before gradually increasing the power. Best Regards, Kerophile.
well tried it again; same story different day; with 10 pumps it spilled Kero both sides; was able to get a nice blue flame for a few seconds on the left side but then it died; guess the pressure did not hold up; waiting to get the check valve removal tool in tomorrow; new valve might be enough for a better trial......still can't get the plunger to seal off so guess the check valve is in too far to engage the threads on the needle Lou
Bit more on "Frankie". Got the Coleman NRV extraction tool in a few days ago but could not get it to "grip" finally coaxed it to work with a solid hammer TAP and got the NRV out, threads were stripped and the extractor's ears was a bit over size to seat well; put on a leather cup from Sefa wet it with some neats foot oil, soo smooth ; thanks Sefa placed an order for a NRV and will see how it goes; did some filing on the extractor tool to get her to seat better; and the little bearing in the NRV is badly corroded; free BUT still appears very pitted; have it in Berryman's carb cleaner so will see how she looks after an overnight soak. HTH; Lou
jets and needles seem to be pretty decently set; well just went ahead and ordered 50 Ft. of Graphite packing from McMaster Carr for a bit over 11$ + shipping, needed some for leaky valves at work anyway; disassembled the stove and have the burners in soapy water; any one have suggestions of ultrasonic cleaner sol. am tempted to go that route have seen some very nice clean ups of fine tooling Lou
Hi Lou, if you are looking for a suitable solution to use when cleaning burners, I use a weak mixture of citric acid crystals in warm water, with a few drops of detergent added. Perhaps half a teaspoon of crystals to half a pint of water. Do not leave the burner in the mixture for too long, say 10-15 mins maximum. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Gary; thanks for the follow up; is the Citric Acid solution used in the ultrasonic bath or just a soaking solution.?; very tempted to go the ultrasonic route as might be able to access one at a current job-site Lou
Hi Lou, the solution can be used for simple soaking or as an ultrasonic cleaning solution. Obviously it works more efficiently if warmed and used in an u/s cleaner, Regards, George.
George; thanks again will put her in solution and US this weekend; 1/2 hour time is what is used for the parts they clean here at work temp I think is 105 Fahrenheit.....cheers Lou
OK; had put them in the citric acid ultrasonic bath for 15 minutes at 45 Celsius; then new graphite tape and steel wool to the under-surface burner caps. need to clean up the frame a bit also the right burner; and put her back together but looks like I can get some work out of her Lou
From looking at that flame I would guess that you have inner and outer burner caps that don't match each other or no inner cap at all. Try switching the caps between the burners. This is a good project.
Yellow dog; wow!! you hit the bulls eye; yes, they are non matching and the yellow flame comes from the one that is loosely fitting BUT they are what I have will try to see if I can scrounge one up on the for sale section ........one big problem on this project is there is no pressure relief screw and unless I drill and tap for a will have to do the awkward "unscrew the filling cap" to get the kero to quit pumping! and the stove to shut off!, yes, the spindle tip is also quite worn and although I cleaned it up with 1000 grit sandpaper, still it will not close completely Lou
