413G Rehab

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by Marcel C., May 25, 2019.

  1. Marcel C. United States

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    I’m new to the Forum and just purchased a Coleman 413G (March 1971). It is in really good shape and working conditions. Has the expected use wear and marks. I would like to get some tips on maintenance items I should look into to get more years of use out of it. Thanks!

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  2. Ed Winskill

    Ed Winskill United States Subscriber

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    The 413 is where it's at; the best of the Coleman suitcases, methinks.
     
  3. Murph

    Murph United States Subscriber

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    @Marcel C. use only Coleman fuel, or VM&P naptha for fuel (Aspen 4T or panel wipe in the UK), and keep the pump leather well oiled, and you'll have no problems.

    @Ed Winskill , I've a 413 and a 425, both are bloody good, but the 425 is a damn sight lighter to drag around, IMO.

    Murph
     
  4. Ed Winskill

    Ed Winskill United States Subscriber

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    True, Murph, but the 413 gives you full use of the two burners, which the 425 really can't, with large pots and pans and such.
     
  5. Marcel C. United States

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    Murph, thanks for the tips. What kind of oil should I use in the pump leather?
     
  6. Marcel C. United States

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    @Ed Winskill I was looking for a 425 but could not pass this one up. I’m happy with the size on this one, for car camping mostly. Thanks for the reply!
     
  7. Murph

    Murph United States Subscriber

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    @Ed Winskill ,here's a good one for you and everyone here!

    The wife's cousin makes maple syrup up in north central Wisconsin, with over 700 trees on a vacuum line system, plus the sap he gets from the local Amish community, he turns out a decent amount of product!

    Well, years back, the syrup producer's association decide to have a pancake breakfast fund raiser, all you could eat for $15.

    You never saw so many two and three-burner Coleman suitcase stoves going in your imagination! A piece of sheet steel with the edges turned up for griddles, and every burner going all out! There were at least 25 stoves going, pancakes, coffee, hot chocolate, it was quite the feed.

    About a third of the cooks ran their stoves off a 20# propane bottle, but most were running CF. They had a system for refueling that was efficient, the cook would call out and raise their hand when they ran low or dry, someone was a fuel runner, took their tank and went well downwind to fill it. The runner brought the filled tank back, and it was back to cooking.

    Fresh pancakes, pure maple syrup, and backwoods coffee - strong and black. Does it get better than that?:clap:

    @Marcel C. , you'll have as many opinions on the oil as can be! SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil, vasoline, 3 in 1 oil, neatsfoot oil, mineral oil, hell, I just lubed up the leather on my 502 with a mix of half CF and half Hoppe's #9 Lubricating Oil!

    All kidding aside, the leather is very tolerant of almost any petroleum based lube. If you can work it into the leather, it'll work for you, IMO.

    Murph
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
  8. Marcel C. United States

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    @Murph, Great story! Where do I get that syrup? As for the leather lube I’m gonna go with the vasoline. Thanks!
     
  9. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    I just refurbed a 413E in rough shape.

    I tested the F/A tube:
    I pumped the tank up and opened the valve SPRAYING IN A SAFE DIRECTION.
    When the lever is UP I got a spray.
    When the lever is DOWN I got a stream.
    So, the pickup (F/A) tube is good.

    I replaced the filler cap gasket. Not as easy to do as a 3 piece cap, but not too hard. I heated the gasket enough to be able to remove it. Some was pried out, and some was broken up and pulled out.
    Then I placed the new gasket in the cap and pressed it with a very blunt tool to work it under the 'ledge' that holds it in place.

    I filled the tank with some fuel and swished and drained it until all of the flakes quit coming out. I use a white quart yogurt container so I can see the bits and pieces easily. Each time I put the fuel back in I used a filter funnel.
    After all the bits were removed, I added that fuel back and burned it till empty.

    Then I added fuel and burned it about 20 minutes so far. I will keep burning it because the flame keeps getting better and better.

    This will be given, it was given to me, and will be shared with a needy person that he know.

    Ken in NC
     
  10. Duck

    Duck United States Subscriber

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    413g (I have 3 of them)my first and favorite go to camping stove. Keep pump oiled, Make sure cap seal is good, and you should be good to go. Only burn CF, Crown fuel etc and you shouldn’t have any problems. If you burn unleaded fuel in it the generator will need maintenance or it will clog.
    Edit: oh yeah cooking bacon on it will add grease and keep it from rusting and preserve the paint so I cook bacon on it whenever I can!! Just my opinion
     
  11. Jim Lukowski United States

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    Great find! That stove looks to be in awesome condition.

    While all the listed oils will work, neatsfoot oil is the recommended/preferred one for leather. Last on my list would be Vaseline because I can't imagine it soaking into the leather like other oils. If by chance the previous owner swapped out the pump cup for a neoprene one, it'll work fine, but some folks complain of them not working when it's really cold out. Just know that if you happen to have a neoprene one, you can always replace it with a leather one if you like.
     
  12. Marcel C. United States

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    @Jim Lukowski thank you for the insight on the leather lube. I’ll pull it apart tomorrow and find out if it still leather. Appreciate all the tips on this.
     
  13. Jim Lukowski United States

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    @Marcel C.

    To be clear, I'm not suggesting you replace the pump cup if it's neoprene, just that the option is available. For neoprene, any of the oils should work. Personally, if I don't have the neatsfoot oil handy for leather, I just grab a little can of 3-in-1 oil.
     
  14. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    I use mineral oil, as I always have that around.
    Cooking oils work ... but will later go rancid.
    If camping and you have no oil and the pump does not work ....
    Pull the pump rod out and knead the leather a little wider. Replace and try. If that does not work you can ues any oil that you have, temporarily. I have even used spit.
    Remember to oil properly later.
     
  15. Murph

    Murph United States Subscriber

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    @Jim Lukowski , you're spot on as it to soaking into the leather. You'll notice I cut my oil with CF so it penetrates into the leather for better results, I'd do the likewise with vasoline, and for the same reasons.

    If I were a real serious sod, prepping for extreme weather, I'd be using DOT5 silicone brake fluid on the leather seal. It won't dry out, harm the leather, or change viscosity in the cold or heat outdoors.

    I use that for old break-open air rifles on the leather piston seals as well. Come winter, it stays pliable so you get a good seal for full velocity, and you don't worry about "dieseling" with it as well. The guns I service are still afield when others have chucked it and went to the pub for a hot toddy. Hard cheese, indeed - but not hard leather!

    Murph
     
  16. shagratork

    shagratork United Kingdom Moderator, R.I.P. Subscriber

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    My choice of oil for nearly 50 years has been 3-in-1 oil.
     
  17. Marcel C. United States

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    I appreciate all the responses and feedback on this. I opened up the pump to check on the pump cup material and is still the leather one. The beauty of this stove is it’s simplicity, but the pump, being one of it’s few moving parts, is crucial for it to function properly and it deserves the attention and proper maintenance. Thanks again!