96 sport fire ball

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by hobowonkanobe, Aug 20, 2012.

  1. hobowonkanobe

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    so, out of no where, my 1933 96 started spewing fumes and consequently, flames from between the vape tube and tank. the second time, after I changed the gasket, it didnt want to go out. Lil scary.
    So, I have changed the lead... and it's worse.
    Any hints as to where, how and how thoroughly I messed up? I'm at a loss here lads.
     
  2. yonadav

    yonadav Subscriber

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    Photos?
     
  3. hobowonkanobe

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    of it on fire? No, I was too busy inventing new swear words and putting em out.
    Seriously though, Pix really cant highlight the sitch any more than my earlier statement.
    It is leaking copious amounts of fuel while running and the *WHOOF!!!* falmes, rather stubourn ones at that. I replaced the lead gasket, and same thing, if not more vigorous.
     
  4. loco7stove

    loco7stove Subscriber

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    Hi

    Fill it with fuel & stand it in a container or large tray , then pump up cold with your finger over the vap hole & see where the fuel is leaking from , may be a crack or a solder repair needed on the collar area or even the vap tube base where the two parts join i.e. lipstick tube to tank securing nut.

    Stu :thumbup:
     
  5. yonadav

    yonadav Subscriber

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    No, I did not mean photos of the fireball. What I'm after is a closeup look of the parts involved in the leak - the thread on the lipstick, the thread on the tank top collar, and the seam of the collar with the tank.

    I do think, however, that Stu's suggestion is an excellent way to locate the leak.

    Yonadav
     
  6. hobowonkanobe

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    it wld explain why the whole area was turning as I was removing the old gasket. crap.And I have no way to solder that
     
  7. hobowonkanobe

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    is there a how to on doing this correctly? The soldering that is?
     
  8. Ian

    Ian Subscriber

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    If the fitting which the vapo screws into is turning in the tank, my post in this thread may help.
    You will need to fit the vapo & tape over the hole so you can pressurise the tank & make the vinegar seep out thru the leak
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  9. loco7stove

    loco7stove Subscriber

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    Hi Hob

    You can always use a solution of citric acid as well to do the clean up job on the joint , not quite as harsh as vinegar :-k

    If you don't feel like you can do this repair you can always shout the Dawgmeister ( Berniedawg ) 8) :thumbup: to do it for you , or post it to me & i'll do it FOC you just need to sort out the postage :D :thumbup: . You know our work!!

    Stu :D :thumbup:
     
  10. BernieDawg Banned

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    Heya Stu
    I've done some freebies for Aaron already this year. I was actually thinking maybe it'd be better to just buy the stove from Aaron.

    Whaddya say Aaron? Want to sell that stove now that's it's not working anymore? If such is of interest, just drop me a PT and we can haggle over price.

    Chers,
    BD
     
  11. hobowonkanobe

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    no, I paid the price you asked, then made the mistake of asking you advice, and got chewed out for it.
    As to selling, seems it is my only option; I can not afford to carry anything that doesnt work.
    If I sell it, I am selling all related spares with it. Burner bell, vape tube, pot stands, bronze mesh (X2) etc.
    If this is really my only option, I'll just post it in the for sale section w/ pix of all that is included.

    Aaron
     
  12. hobowonkanobe

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    for everyone not savvy to this; I asked him about the pros and cons of using JB Weld on my carbide lamp. His letter started with "Color me cranky..." then went on about the value of the lamp etc.
    And then proceeded to accuse me of asking for freebies. No. I paid you what you asked and a little more besides. FREEBIES?!? What freebies?
     
  13. BernieDawg Banned

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    Relaaax, Aaron. Nobody is accusing you of anything. Sheesh! :roll: :lol:
    I reckoned all the advice and question-answering help I gave you in emails was what I referring to as “freebies”.

    I was just trying to help you out by providing an option to buy the nice little stove you’ve broken. If I recall correctly, last time I worked on it (stuck NRV) only four months ago it was a happy little stove. I liked it. Looked like this:

    1345591302-IMGP5419.jpg 1345591315-IMGP5478.jpg 1345591322-IMGP5480.jpg

    You don’t have to take me up on buying the stove. That’s fine. No problem. I just thought since you’ve said publicly you wouldn’t use eBay anymore it would give you an option to pass the stove along to someone who would properly repair and care for it.

    The expensive (over $100) 1892 Powell and Hammer “The Revenge” brass bicycle light I offered to fix for $5 and your shipping. You told me you wanted to use JB Weld to repair it only because you couldn’t afford the $5 and shipping to repair it correctly. And, yes, I told you in a private email exactly what a foolish idea I thought bodging that rare collectible with epoxy would be considering the value of the bike light and what you had already paid for it.

    If you would like me to repair your stove, I’m certainly willing to do that, but, unlike Stu, I won’t do it for free. I think you need to understand these vintage items have value and need to be handled with respect and reasonable care. My opinion is you are really hard on them. I believe that paying a fee to repair them might impart the message that greater care is needed. It's just my opinion and you needn't agree. I was merely making my position clear on working for you for free in my earlier post since Stu brought up the notion.

    And, since folks don’t really sign on to the list to witness these sorts of silly exchanges, how about if you’d like to rag on me further, you use Private Topics and do it off-list. That would be the right way to handle things here at CCS. Thanks!

    Cheers,
    Gary
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  14. hobowonkanobe

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    as I said before during and now, it had nothing to do with the $5. It had nothing to do with expense at all, but that you and I were both planning a vacation and I wanted to have the lamp for my trip.
    Yes, I spent $120 on the lmap, and as I said after your letter, it is only worth what it can do, the $120 is just what I happened to pay for it. I have NO issues paying what something costs if I have a use for it, $78 for the Lucas No.350 British side car carbide lamp $80 +shipping = $100 P&H The Revenge, $120 (free shipping actually offered by seller) The stove in question was $244 after shipping from Norway, not including what I paid you for the NRV job and the seam on the 1917.
    Considering all this, HTF can you assume (damn near insist) I have an issue with paying you $5 for a quick solder?!?
    Never mind.
     
  15. threedots New Zealand

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    Hello hobowonkanobe.
    There is a way you can solder the inside of the fuel tank without having to open it.
    Firstly remove the NRV, pump assembly(not the pump tube)and flush out the fuel tank with soapy water then meths so that no fuel residue remains. Make sure the tank is dried and aired thoroughly.
    Next get some lead based solder wire and cut it into short lengths about 4-5mm long. Cut enough to allow the joint between the top of the tank and the fuel feed outlet(where the burner is screwed into)to flood with molten solder.
    Next turn the fuel tank upside down and squirt enough liquid flux into the fuel filler hole so that it runs to where you want the solder to form. Be carefull. If the joint leaks flux, make sure you put in enough to do what you want and don't get any flux on your skin. Give the flux enough time to clean the same area where you wish the solder to set.
    Then drop into the tank the solder wire that you have cut and again turn the tank upside down so that they fall into place around the joint you are trying to fix.
    Next while the tank is still upside down; using a pencil blow torch, heat the area around the joint until you are sure that the solder pieces have melted properly around the joint. Allow to cool before turning the tank the right way up. Then wash out the tank with soapy water to neutralise any remaining flux acid.
    You can now put back the NRV and pump assembly and test the joint for leaks.
    I have used this method successfully a few times for clean soldering pump tubes, fuel filler tubes back into place as well as a crack in an old brass Primus meths bottle to good effect. Usually there would not be any solder that would need cleaning back on the outside of the tank. A perfect clean joint.
    Best of luck, John
     
  16. hobowonkanobe

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    thanks mate. I'll run this by my friend and room mate who can solder like a wizard. I'll post the pix I shot of him building a custom rear light for my bike from an antique red lens from an old carbide tail light. When he's inspired, he excels beyond his training as an electrician/computer programmer.
    He's a goofy geek, but a wizard with a soldering iron/torch.
     
  17. hobowonkanobe

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    my friend in question. nuttier than squirrel droppings, but a wizard with silver solder.
    the tail light was a combo of an old carbide tail lamp from a side car, and some brass stock I got from the hardware store. The rest was coffee fueled madness and inspiration.
    the 1st shot is his response to my wisecrack that it looked a bit like a crystal bat from "The Dark Crystal"

    1345635833-tony_3.jpg 1345635818-tony_2.jpg 1345635803-tony_1.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015