AGM 1945

Discussion in 'Military' started by Rick b, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. Rick b

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    1227559795-AGM.jpg
    Case

    1227559836-AGM_1.jpg
    Stove

    1227559877-AGM_1945.jpg
    Date 1945

    This stove American Gas Machine. I inherited from my sisters, husbands, father who was in WW2.
    Best. Rick

    Sorry about the pic, (I finally figured it out in my post for the SMP military stove). I didnt use the image optimizer... :doh:
     
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  2. anlrolfe

    anlrolfe Subscriber

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    Here is your other brother

    AGMCO 1945 - its been used, now its been reborn

    1245281688-IMG_0928_opt_2_.jpg

    plugged vaporizer screen and home made replacement


    1245281719-IMG_0931_opt.jpg

    Modified burner for fuel drain hole

    1245281740-IMG_0934_opt.jpg

    Priming wick

    1245281760-IMG_0940_opt.jpg

    Left Roaring, right priming

    1245281779-IMG_0942_opt.jpg

    Huston, we have lift-off
     
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  3. Rick b

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    Excellent anlrolfe and welcome to CCS! Did yours come with a lead washer on the gas cap? Mine didnt have anything and still got it to run. Will pobably cut a nitrile washer for it when I decide to un-bury it from my other stoves. :whistle:
     
  4. anlrolfe

    anlrolfe Subscriber

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    Mine had a piece of heavy cardboard as a crude attempt of a washer. Went to an auto parts store and got two types of washers to try. The one that worked best was made for, I think, an oil drain pan washer. I was "captive" rubber center and brass bound. Fit perfect onto the convex tank lip and will not "egg out".

    The tank sounded like it had spent time at the beach. Wash, rinse, wash, rinse..... Know the drill??


    A steel washer had been used to hold the pump leather in place. Rust & more rust. Replaced it with stainless flat washer & brass nut. Had to disassemble the check valve assembly to get all the rust and junk out. Scared myself after all this cleaning and all when I couldn't get pump pressure into the tank. Tipped her on end and soared it with solvent. Gingerly applied pump pressure and finally whatever it was popped through the tubing down stream of the pump.

    1245293827-523_pump_assy_opt.jpg


    Pulled out the valve assemblies and cleaned from stem to stern.

    1245293941-523_valve_stem_and_air_tube_opt.jpg

    Wow! gotta love OCD

    A Rolfe
     
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  5. Bohnzye

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    Greetings Anlrofle, I own the same medic stove but I dont have that brass L shaped hook? in my assembly. That might explain why my flame adjuster doesen't work? what did you make your ne fuel diffuser out of? Thanx much Drew
     
  6. Rick b

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    Well started to scrape the (lead gasket or to really see if it had one) turned out to be a hardened rubber gasket. Heated it and scraped it out. It now has a new viton gasket.
     
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  7. toonsgt

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    Working on 2 of those today. Been deployed for a while and am back to fiddling with my collection. Found a good resource for generator/vaporizer screen and nitrile rubber. mcmaster.com Got a 12 inch square of nitrile(buna-n), some .177 nitrile o-ring cord for M1950 check valves(NRVs), and a 12 inch square of ultra fine brass screen all for about $20. Got it all in 3 days too. Fun place to shop as well.(no, I don't have any affiliation, just passing it on for those like me who have a hard time finding this kind of stuff) I digress.

    One of my tanks has a lot of rust inside. Is there a way to treat or plate the insides so I won't have to worry about rust coming back. The steel tanks are of slightly different design, and appear to have bulkheads or baffles in them and I don't know if some of the coatings will muck up the pump inlet tube. Any thought?

    Thanks in advance,

    Mike
     
  8. Bohnzye

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    Hey Toonsgt, I am new to this forum but have been collecting /restoring for years. I use a product called P.O.R. This product is a 4 step process and literally eats the rust away and leaves an armor coating on the inside of the tank.It also works great where the seams have been compromised and wont hold fuel.It's not cheap but neither is our hobby so I wont use anything else. You can Google the manufactures website. POR.Cheers Mate
     
  9. Bohnzye

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  10. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    POR-15 works good, yank the dip tube first...
     
  11. toonsgt

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    Thanks guys, sounds like good stuff. By "dip tube" do you mean the burners? The 2 of the 3 of these that I'm working on fill from the end. The WWII model has the cast brass wing nut fill plug and the newer one has a round galvanized steel plug with a pin extending through it for leverage. Both are completely disassembled with the exception of the pump check valves that I'm loath to remove for fear of shredding them(I learned this the HARD WAY on a previous M1941) even though I modded a huge screwdriver by grinding shoulders into it so it would fit snugly. That stove went to the back of the line and has been there ever since.

    Mike
     
  12. anlrolfe

    anlrolfe Subscriber

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    Someone once suggested putting a hand full of BB's in the tank and shaking the maraca out of it. Retrieval can be done w/ an extending retrieval magnet, the BB's are brass coated steel.

    As far as tank seal, check the auto parts stores for oil drain plug ring( 1/2" rubber center w/ brass outer ring). IMHO it works GREAT.

    AR
     
  13. bajabum

    bajabum R.I.P.

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    Dip tube refers to the fuel pickup tube. Don't want that sealed up... :doh:
     
  14. anlrolfe

    anlrolfe Subscriber

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    Some of these photos were of a vaporizer system from an M-1950 stove. I used them as a comparison of the condition of the vaporizer screens. The cleaning needle on the 523 is straight and threads into the valve block.

    Sorry if I confused things,

    AR