Aladdin Heater - Stove Combination.

Discussion in 'Aladdin' started by Matty, Jun 25, 2017.

  1. Matty

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    G'day all,

    There are a couple of these units already posted on the site but none I've found are complete. I decided to post my example for anyone that was interested as it is complete.

    I was fortunate enough to have the original instruction booklet come with the unit and by the diagrams within it, I can tell everything is there including the spanners and metho bottle and many spare parts, some unused. A Companion metho bottle was also included.

    The grate with the ALADDIN embossing is often missing when you see these units. I was well pleased that the grate was undamaged.

    It was also nice to see a Brandt's parts envelope.


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  2. Matty

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    I forgot the photo with the safety grill.

    Image-897002255.jpg
     
  3. shueilung.2008

    shueilung.2008 Subscriber

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    Great!

    Cheers

    Enrique
     
  4. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  5. Matty

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    That is an interesting question and one I haven't seen asked before. Normally, questions are asked about Radius and Aladdin Industries of Australia.

    Aladdin released a storm lantern in 1932 for the Australian market based on a Radius lantern. Just which Radius lantern seems to be the $60,000 question as I have read many and varied opinions.

    Aladdin Australia did release a heater/cooker in 1930. Now, 1930 pre-dates the release of the Radius based lanterns. I think it is very possible that Aladdin did base their early heater/cookers on Svea.

    Fast forward to 1950 odd, when my heater/cooker, of this design, was released and there are only vague similarities to the Svea of the 1920's that you linked to.
     
  6. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  7. Matty

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    After a 2nd look, yes, I would have to agree that there are more similarities than differences. I would say my earlier comment of "vague differences" is wrong, certainly when you take into account natural progression of design over the years. Things like fuel caps, primer cups etc, do change over time.

    It would be good to find an Aladdin Industries heater/cooker from 1930 to say 1940 to see just what the early Aladdin ones looked like. They may have been straight copies of the Svea.
     
  8. shagratork

    shagratork United Kingdom Moderator, R.I.P. Subscriber

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    Great heater/stove and an excellent discussion.
     
  9. z1ulike

    z1ulike United States SotM Winner Subscriber

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    I really like the spirit cup. I'll bet that turned in top edge really focuses the heat on the burner.

    Ben
     
  10. Matty

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    I hope to light this unit in the next few days so I can let you know. I'm working on an old Acorn Brass lamp at the moment and want to finish it first.

    A Question to anyone that may know.

    When in heater configuration, would the unit typically use a silent burner or a roarer burner?
     
  11. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Matty

    I have two of those heaters (though not with all the goodies you have).

    I should get them going, and post them.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  12. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    G'day Matty, Great to see a complete one.
    The heater was designed to use the same burner for cooking as for heating. In this case the silent burner. Otherwise there would be no reason to have the slot in the reflector that goes over the control spindle.

    Martin
     
  13. Matty

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    @Tony Press

    Tony,

    I bought one of these founts when I first got into collecting. It only had the burner and grate legs with it. A few months ago, I'd bought a lamp and when it arrived the bloke had thrown in a free stove. As luck would have it, the grate that came with the stove was an Aladdin one with the embossed ALADDIN logo on it. That was the first I knew that the Aladdin grates actually existed. Well, I mean with the logo on them.

    @ROBBO55

    Martin,

    Thanks for the info in regards to which burner to use. A silent burner did come with the unit. What put some doubt in my head was, I saw a roarer burner on one of the previously linked to Svea's.

    A further problem I have is, when putting the burner on, it must be clocked so the pricker control shaft goes through the slot in the reflector.

    The problem is, clocking the pricker control shaft to be in line with the slot in the reflector means the burner isn't screwed on tight enough. I can't go around one more time and correctly clock with the slot in the reflector as the burner tightens about halfway between the correct clocking.

    Is there a way to overcome this problem?

    I do hope I've explained myself well enough.
     
  14. Matty

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    I fixed the clocking issue.

    I did a pressure test with fuel in the fount to check for leaks and all was good for about a minute until I could hear some gurgling and of course, the NRV has started to fail. I say of course, because as soon as I heard the gurgling I remembered why I don't buy Aladdin lamps, Radius lamps and those with the same type of NRV anymore is, because I hate them.

    Just like all the other NRV's of this type, I can't get it out. They just break your spirit - mine at least.
     
  15. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi, @Matty. The regulator shaft alignment problem is common to stoves mounted in housings, such as marine stoves or double burner suitcase stoves.

    Tightening the burner to get the regulator knob aligned in the correct place can be problematical. Using two HR washers, one above and the other below the spirit-cup, usually gives enough compliance to get alignment, but you can find that you are applying a lot of force, which is undesirable as the burner or feed pipe can be over-stressed.

    In the past I have provided HR washers of two different thicknesses, 1.5mm and 0.8mm approx. This allows you to select the washer combination to give the best regulator knob alignment in each case.

    You could try slightly thinning one of your HR washers, by carefully abrading with sand-paper or similar, if you think this would help. There is no asbestos in the HR washers Fettle box and one of our Australian CCS member provides, so there is no health hazard.

    Trust this helps.
    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  16. Matty

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    Kerophile,

    Thanks for the info, it makes a lot od sense. I'm sorry I didn't respond earlier, I wasn't aware that you had posted.

    I finally managed to get the NRV out thanks to some advice I had seen Tony Press post on one of his fettles.

    I managed to find a place here in Australia that sells lead washers and pips at a very good price. Being a collector that lives in Australia, it can be a real pain waiting for parts to arrive from overseas. It can get expensive too, especially with postage. I needed enough washers, pips and cups etc, to fettle 10 lamps and stoves. It all adds up.

    This isn't a great photo, taken in the day, but it does show the unit working. My bloody flash wished to go off too.

    AladdinHeater.jpg

    I need to ask a question as I am not very well versed on stoves.

    I turned the stove off and then back on again to see if it would re-ignite like a pressure lamp does when using the pricker. The stove wouldn't re-ignite. I had to grab a lighter and use the lighters open flame to cause re-ignition. Should the stove re-ignite by allowing fuel to pass once more after using the pricker?

    I hope I made myself clear. I have my doubts.
     
  17. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Matty

    Good to see your Aladdin heater up and running.

    The standard procedure for re-lighting a silent burner is with a naked flame (match or lighter). That is because when you shut it off there is no residual flame in the burner to reignite the vapourised kerosene.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  18. Matty

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    @Tony Press

    Thanks for the response Tony.

    I had it in my head that the vapourised kero would ignite due to the temperature of the burner . You can certainly, for instance, shut off a Tilley, and it will re-ignite without a naked flame. Same deal with the AGM Ready Lites and perhaps most lamps come to think of it.

    Liquid kerosene will auto ignite at X temperature, without a naked flame. I can't remember the exact temperature. So, I thought that a hot kero gas would auto ignite at a lower temperature than room temperature liquid kero.

    Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing the point and I do believe you when you say you need to use a naked flame.
     
  19. abbahco1

    abbahco1 Subscriber

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    Hi Matty: Congratulations on getting this up and running (I'm an Aussie too, though living in the USA). A question concerning the washer that seals the joint between the burner and tank riser tube: on Aladdins I've seen there is no fibre washer between the spirit cup (which moves freely) and burner, and I've often seen leaks from these joints. What is the correct washer for sealing this joint? (the Aladdin 2-burner stoves have the same system, I guess designed so you can tighten the joint and have the taps wind up in the right place at the front of the stove. I have a Radius No. 10 F range which appears to have the same system).

    Thanks, Peter.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  20. Matty

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    @abbahco1

    Peter,

    Your question about the washer between the burner and the riser tube is quite interesting. Despite me having the original paperwork to this Aladdin, it isn't as detailed as showing where washers go.

    When I first assembled the heater, I thought that the riser tube would spin freely as you suggest, so that negated my earlier question in regards to clocking. That, in my case, turned out not to be so.

    When I fettle a GPA product, before firing, I fill the fount with fuel and pressurise the fount to between 10 and 20 PSI and let it sit for an hour. I have found that at times, all looks ok once the fount is pressurised, but a slow leak may show up after awhile. I'd prefer to find that slow leak not when the GPA is burning but before.

    So, as usual, I let the unit sit and despite not finding a problem in my initial check after pressurising the fount, a slow leak did in fact manifest itself.

    I had always wondered if there should be a washer between the burner and the riser on stoves. I have found some stoves have them, some don't. I could never be certain if the stove left the factory with the washer or if a previous owner had either added or removed a washer.

    Once I detected the leak, I added a fibre washer between the burner and the riser. Still, the only way I could get the leak to cease was to tighten the burner to the riser to the point the burner couldn't then spin freely. I'm still not sure what is correct, the burner spinning freely or tightened to the point it simply can't spin freely.

    I had earlier asked @Tony Press if the NRV did or didn't come from the factory with a lead washer. I had never seen a lead washer on a Primus/Radius/Aladdin NRV. Still, I wasn't sure if the reason that I wasn't seeing a lead washer was because over the last 60 to 100 years, previous owners had simply worn out the washers and had been unable to get a replacement. I checked 6 Primus like GPA's that I hadn't previously fettled and not one of them had a washer.

    I simply could not get my NRV to stop leaking air. As soon as I added a lead washer I'd recently purchased, the problem was solved. So, I'm still not sure, despite Tony's help, if lead washers were added by the factory. If they weren't, I certainly think they should have been.