Here are some shots of one of my 530's Next to a early 1942 520. For a stove made after the 520 it is not very similar nor does it use many of the same parts. The gas tip/jet are the same. The control valve and jam nut are the same. Along with the funnel. Coleman did improve over the 520 a bit. The gave it a longer pump stroke and stainless steel among other things. I have grown to like this stove and its chrome charm. They changed the cleaning lever and cleaning rod as you can see. For the better I guess. The 530 is easier to take apart and service than the 520. Cheers, Jeff
Thanks again Trevor. I hope it helps others. I know it helped me once you see everything you can better understand how the stove works. Who knew? Cheers, Jeff
It'll help me - still need to fettle mine & not that familiar with Coleman stoves. Although it's good lucking it's had fuel in for a long time, arriving from the USA with a full tank.
I decided to take some more pictures of a 530 pump assembly and check valve. The pump assembly, air pump stem, and check valve. Note the slot in the screw of the air pump stem (square rod). Which allows more air pass over when it is unscrewed slightly. In the picture below is where the pump air stem seats itself. When closed it creates a brass on brass seal. It is very similar to a control valve in most stoves. The square crimped part of the pump rod. The pump rod is hollow to allow for the pump air stem to go inside. The crimped part allows for the pump rod to turn the pump air stem. The hollow pump rod is why you need to cover the hole on top of the pump knob. In the picture below you can see the check valve. The check valve is a steel ball held captive inside a brass chamber/tube. It can only travel up and down about 2.20 mm. Air pressure in the tank keeps the ball up against the top and creates a temporary seal. When you pump down you force the ball down allowing for air to pass by into the tank. When you are done pumping; screwing down the pump air stem makes a brass seal. The pump stem does not hold or force the ball down. The two work independent from each other. The ball simply keeps the air pressure in the tank while you do the up stroke on the pump. The pump air stem acts as the main seal. An important thing to note after the check valve there a chamber and air tube that goes to the top of the tank. This design stops any fuel from getting into the check valve or pump. There is a special tool for removing the check valve. It can be hard to remove with a large slotted screw driver. Cheers, Jeff
good grief! that looks like something one won't find on the Coleman parts site! has anyone crafted one? it looks like something a dentist might use on an alien!
Hi Jeff have you considered making a pre heat cup for the 530. as seen on the coleman forum ? I also need to replace the four screws, idealy with some nice stainless steel ones...any ideas ?
Hello Linux_author You can make a check valve tool out of an large old flat head or slotted screw driver. You just have to use a flat file on the tip to make the tip of the screw driver wider. I hope that makes sense. Hi Andrew I kinda like how the 530 is primed. But sometimes have used the Tilley clip-on priming cup. A priming cup is something that I plan on making one day. I know old coleman parts has the screws for sale. Part number 530-17-508 for 3 USD. I hope that helps Cheers, Jeff