Ditmar Demon 70 paraffin stove/heater

Discussion in 'Other Brands' started by presscall, Sep 16, 2014.

  1. Wim

    Wim Subscriber

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    I must confess, the thingie did not come on it's own, some more "items" accompanied it.... P3130039.JPG P3130040.JPG P3130041.JPG
     
  2. Wim

    Wim Subscriber

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    Somehow, I managed to "lose" a photo, never mind it only showed a spare "wick", clearly showing the word "amiante" which is french for asbestos.
    The heater/stove is now warming up the shed, the fount takes 3.5liters of paraffin. I have no idea at all what the consumption per hour is.
    Only drawbacks in my humble opinion; one can't regulate the heat output, and you have to more or less dismantle the heater/stove to light/extinguish it.
    The fine lady I bought it from found this in an old building that once was a shop. To sad she only kept/saved from the landfill one out of approx. 20 (TWENTY!!!) of these found in there! All brand new........

    All the best,

    Wim
     
  3. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    @Wim
    A great find. 19 went to land-fill! Arghhhh!

    Good to see those instructions and that hood lifting tool.

    You're right about the lack of regulation of course and that the chimney has to be removed to light the stove, but extinguishing is a simple matter of turning the igniter primer knob through 90% and the flame goes out afte a while (3 minutes the instructions say).

    Thanks to the instructions, I know now that the igniter wick is called a 'kindler'. Nice word for it.

    Thanks Wim!

    image.jpeg

    John
     
  4. Radler Switzerland

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    Hello Wim

    I must confess, the start of your post did not promise interesting news. :-s
    But then: WHOA !!! Congratulations! :clap:

    The first time I see a Instruction leaflet, the great illustrated packing box and a dated document from a Demon. And now, I have read the name "SUPERAUTOMATIC" on the package! I am still suspicious to overlook something of the construction of this great stove. Thank you for sharing.

    Best Regards
    Radler

    PS. The picture of the new spare wick and its dimension would be of high interest for those who want to replace the old wick with a selfmade non-asbestos wick.
     
  5. dusan

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    I have made new wick.Stove run better and silentely.
    Material of new wick is " 25 mm Aramid Wick " ,cut lenght about 25 cm.
    It's 60''' stove,wick diametre is 75 mm.

    IMG_1322.JPG IMG_1323.JPG

    D.
     
  6. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    Nice work @dusan. I'll make a note of that should I need to replace my starter wick.

    John
     
  7. dusan

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    My stove will not going off.I broke old hard seal out and made new.
    I have not 12 mm ,only 10 mm tool,but it's enought.Th. 1mm.

    IMG_1324.JPG IMG_1325.JPG IMG_1326.JPG IMG_1327.JPG

    IMG_1328.JPG

    D.
     
  8. redspeedster

    redspeedster United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hopefully today I have saved a Ditmar heater/stove from a dreadful fate. Becoming an electrically lit plant stand :rage:](*,)
    Steampunk indeed, vandalism I call it.
     
  9. redcurrantjelly

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    Thank you presscall for your interesting insight as to the working and components of this little Ditmar heater. I found the same one at the back of our garden when we bought the house. It is in a very poor state and extremely rusty. Many parts are missing or have corroded away unfortunately and it may be beyond salvation. However, from your detailed post, I am fascinated to discover what the loose bits are, where they were supposed to be attached and also what is their working function. I have started dismantling it and realised that if I am ever to use it it would need new components. Is there somewhere that sells replacement parts? And is asbestos still used in the wick?
    Many thanks. redcurrantjelly.
     
  10. shagratork

    shagratork United Kingdom Moderator, R.I.P. Subscriber

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    Wim's Ditmar Demon is not only a functional stove/heater, it is also an object of beauty.
    I have witnessed it working in the 'Fettlers' Arms' at Newark and it is something to drool over.
    I briefly thought of knocking out Wim with a mallet and stealing it, but he is a very big guy!

    SAM_2212.JPG
     
  11. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    @redcurrantjelly
    Welcome to CCS and glad what I featured gave some insight into what you have with your Ditmar.

    I don’t know of a source for spares but if you were to post up some photos of your collection of parts it would be a start to establish what’s needed to get it running.

    The ‘kindler’ wick needn’t be asbestos and a modern heat-proof fibreglass tape would serve. Contributor Dusan in his post above made one out of what he calls ‘Aramid’. Not sure what that is, but it looks like a sort of wood stove door sealing tape.

    John
     
  12. shueilung.2008

    shueilung.2008 Subscriber

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    @presscall Aramid= Nomex, Kevlar.

    Cheers

    Enrique
     
  13. redcurrantjelly

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  14. redcurrantjelly

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    @presscall Thank you for your replies. Just posted a few pictures of my Ditmar heater. It is really in a poor state. Any advice on what is the best solution apart from throwing it away? I really hope not to have to come to that as it is so beautiful in its own way. I have started sanding it down, but even the paraffin tank is corroded and has wholes in. Many thanks.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2018
  15. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    I wouldn’t argue with you there, unfortunately! Holes in a steel fuel tank where paraffin’s the fuel can be patched (depending on the extent of the rust) with lead-soldered patches. In a petrol-fuelled pressure appliance there’s more at stake if the repaired tank continues to be porous.

    The worst aspect is the burner component made up of concentric tubes. That’s a tough one. Lead-soldered patches wouldn’t cope with the heat and any repairs would have to be silbrazed, which isn’t any more difficult but requires the right (MAPP) blowtorch. Fabricating any mending patches after cutting back the worst of the rusted metal would call for some skill, which perhaps you have.

    With the fuel tank patched the stove might work even with the burner in that state. Worth a try.

    John