Here is my fettled and running Enders Baby 9063. It is marked: "Made in Western Germany" on the tin lid. It came with the tool set and a spare nipple: The tin was pretty rusty so I used Hammerite rust converter before repainting it with black "VHT" brand engine paint baked at 94C: The tank was repainted with VHT calliper enamel and clear coat and baked. The bits: (I replaced the wick) The hardest bit was getting the NRV cap off, and then finding the spring was so hard it would not pump. I replaced the spring with a Tilley NRV spring and used a viton pip supplied by The Fettle Box in the pip-holder: It did not come with a pot support so I made two from 3/16" stainless steel - a small and large one: And here it is packed: Testing it out after a thorough clean: As it came: The "Espresso Test" is next.
Excellent photos of your fettle. They have given me confidence to undertake a wick replacement on my 9063. I've replaced all the pips and seals on the stove that I can. The only thing left to replace is the wick. Hopefully that will sort out the problem of a less than robust burn. Nice work Tony!
The wick was easy. What was hard was unsealing the fuel line from the tank. I am very reluctant to force brass joints. This one was stuck hard, so I sat the whole tank and fuel line in 50:50 acetone and ATF for a few days. It came apart quite easily after that. I used cotton mop for the wick. Cheers Tony
Tony: thanks for the tip on softening up the main point of attack. My fear of taking on the fuel line/tank separation has helped me avoid the project. I'll give it a go in the next few weeks. Fingers crossed!
Much better job you made of separating burner tube from tank than I achieved, Tony ... SURGERY Usually, the wooden block technique works Beautifully made pot rests. John
John Having badly molested two Primus 71 nuts trying to remove them, I now take a very Zen approach to these kinds of joints: 1. Soak in 50:50 acetone:ATF for three days 2. Test and see whether a large spanner works without excessive force 3. If that doesn't work, soak whole thing in Marine Clean at 60C inside an ultrasonic cleaner for a few hours.... That seems to work eventually. I think the ultrasonic cleaner manages to break down the seal formed by/in the joint. When I put these joints back together, I use copper grease. Xavi and Dave, I thought long and hard about the pot rests, and waited until I got everything back together and thought about how to fit homemade rests in the tin. Initially I was going to make two of the smaller rests, but after having made one and looking at it with the stove running, I decided the larger rest would be a much better idea. I did it using a vise, some heat from a propane torch, and by hand- bending the steel. Cheers Tony
Again I say.. good fettle Tony. I have a question on this topic, is acetone safe for brass? Ken in NC
Acetone will not adversely affect brass. But it will ruin any lacquering or paintwork; it is highly volatile, and not very good for you! So, use in moderation in the open air and don't breath it in. Store it well away from anything producing flame or sparks. TRUE CONFESSION: I know this from bitter experience! I made up a litre of acetone:ATF and had one of my troublesome Primus 71s sitting in it. I absentmindedly took the lid off, looked to see whether the stove was fully submerged, then went back to using a naked flame to do some soldering... The next minute whoosh! Flame! Smoke! I hadn't put the lid back on properly - and I hadn't moved the pot back outside. Luckily I had a fire extinguisher to hand and no damage was done to anything except my eyebrows and pride. The worst part was cleaning up all the fire extinguisher powder from all over the workshop. Tony
