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First Full Fettle "Enders Baby 9063"

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by HunterStovie, Oct 10, 2017.

  1. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    The Beginning : Disassembly

    I got this off of ebay for under $25, it had the funnel. It was pretty burnt and rusty.

    DSC01337.JPG DSC01338.JPG

    The tank and all of it's bits. The pump was missing it's NRV pip, and the cup was an oily brittle mess.

    DSC01340.JPG Here's the stove parts in relatively good shape. DSC01342.JPG

    Except for the wick!

    Here is the case and lid.

    DSC01343.JPG DSC01344.JPG DSC01341.JPG

    The case is not as bad as it looks, the lid is a different story.

    Here is the 10mm Flare Wrench I used to remove stove from tank. It was clamped in a vise and I turned the tank by hand. It came off pretty easy.

    DSC01345.JPG

    Summary : Gaskets and pump cup were hard and brittle, no pip, burnt wick, rusty and burnt paint.

    Not a bad start. To be continued......

    Mike
     
  2. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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  3. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    Part II : Shiny Brass Bits (This is the easy part)

    After 4 cycles in the sonic cleaner, 0000 steel wool, and a bronze brush, this is what the burner components look like now.

    DSC01351.JPG DSC01355.JPG DSC01356.JPG

    This is the tank Components after 1 cycle in the sonic cleaner and a little brushing.

    DSC01357.JPG

    I have the rubber to replace the pips, and the gaskets for the tank are on order.

    To be continued......

    Mike
     
  4. SomiZ Hungary

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    @HunterStovie
    Nice job with the brass components. Ultrasonic cleaner is a great idea - modern technology to save classic stuff.
    Can you tell me what type/brand/size of ultrasonic cleaner u are using?
    I'm checking some options on Aliexpress for about $25-35 and wondering if it worth to buy one.

    For the tank and the case cleanup I suggest fine sandblasting, then sintering - it makes miracles
    See here : https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/juwel-34-resurrection-attempt.35649/

    Looking forward for the end results
    Zoltan
     
  5. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    @SomiZ

    Thanks,

    I'm using a Lyman Turbo Sonic 2500 Ultrasonic Case Cleaner 110 Volt and their brass cleaner.

    The case and tank will be blasted. I'm a little concerned about how the lid will turn out. We'll see

    Mike
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2017
  6. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    Part 3A Parts : Gaskets

    I just wanted to share what I've recently discovered concerning gaskets for the Enders Baby

    On the left is the factory spare fuel filler/SRV gasket and on the right is a McMaster-Carr Viton 1170N25

    DSC01367.JPG
    On the SRV and filler neck, it's a little loose so I will probably temporarily glue it in place.

    DSC01368.JPG DSC01369.JPG

    On the left is a round gasket from a Quietstove rebuild kit and on the right is a McMaster-Carr Viton 1170N56 Square Profile Viton gasket for the pump tube. Although slightly thicker and not as squishy, they are a perfect fit and allow you to remove the pump from the tube.

    DSC01362.JPG DSC01364.JPG DSC01365.JPG DSC01366.JPG

    Both seals do what they are supposed to do and the tank holds pressure. At least in the US they are easily obtainable and cheap. They come in a package of 10, so you will have spares to share.

    Mike
     
  7. Marc

    Marc United States Subscriber

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    Beautiful work. Well done. Going to look better than new when you're done, looking forward to seeing it completed.
     
  8. Punisher

    Punisher United States Subscriber

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    Brass looks good!!
     
  9. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    Update on the SRV gaskets. I spent some more time looking for gaskets that would provide a better fit and I came up with these 2.

    #1 6540K125 - Viton .551" ID, .691" OD, .070 thickness. These were a little big on the outside but I was able to squish them into place. They have an X-cross section.

    DSC01429.JPG DSC01421.JPG DSC01439.JPG

    #2 5267T489 - Viton O-Ring, same dimensions but .082" thickness. Again outside a little big but can be pushed into place. These might end up being the best choice for now.

    DSC01430.JPG DSC01431.JPG DSC01434.JPG

    Only long term use will show which one is better or if they both hold up the same.

    Mike
     
  10. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    This is the cover after a few sessions with some rust removing gel.

    DSC01444.JPG DSC01443.JPG

    There's a few holes through the rust, on to plan B.

    DSC014456.jpg
     
  11. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    Tank Teaser,

    Tomorrow is baking the tank in the oven to cure the paint and reassembly.

    DSC01446.JPG DSC01447.JPG DSC01449.JPG

    The paint is VHT engine paint, the color is Chevy Red/Orange which is a close match to the factory color.

    It is also close in color to Street Hemi Orange which Dodge used on their 440 Magnums

    Mike
     
  12. Tony Press

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    @HunterStovie

    Mmmm... this is coming along very nicely! :thumbup:

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  13. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    The paint on 5 sides looks pretty good, but on the side facing away from the stove it's not as smooth and shiny as the others. I'll leave it as it is for now until I find out how durable the paint is. Unfortunately I can't just spray the bad side without getting overspray on the good sides. The guys at VHT said not to mix their different clear coats and the only option for the engine paint is gloss. I have some satin Flame Proof but they said I can't use it because it needs to be cured at 650 F in steps instead of just at 200 F. I'm probably the only one that will ever notice it.
     
  14. SomiZ Hungary

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    looking very, very nice
    Congratulation.

    I must not start searching for and Enders Baby for myself .......
     
  15. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    Here is the tank and burner back together, sorry I forgot to take a picture of the new wick. The paint looks better after the bake in the oven. I only have one new tank decal and I'm not sure I will use it on this one until I can get a few more. I was also able to save the pump cup by soaking it in oil for a few days, give it a little massage, then soaking for a few more days and another massage. It's working again

    DSC01461.JPG DSC01466.JPG DSC01467.JPG

    Not too bad for my first attempt.

    Flame shots soon.

    To Be Continued......

    Mike
     
  16. IvanN

    IvanN United States Subscriber

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    Not to bad at all!
     
  17. Marc

    Marc United States Subscriber

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  18. Tony Press

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  19. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    The lid is definitely going to require some type of body filler material after I use some rust converter.

    For the NRV/SRV pips I used ones from a M1950 that I got from old coleman parts. They were a perfect fit. I was going to make my own but the punches are still in the mail.

    The tank looked naked without the decal so I went for it. It's vinyl with an adhesive back.

    DSC01468.JPG DSC01470.JPG

    Mike
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017 at 10:50 PM
  20. HunterStovie

    HunterStovie United States Subscriber

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    TA DA !!!

    DSC01473.JPG DSC01475.JPG DSC01477.JPG

    I could not wait any longer.

    Mike