First post, hello/howdy, new to Svea's

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by Hiker_Steve, Nov 10, 2024.

  1. Hiker_Steve United States

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    Hello, I send a general thank you to anyone who makes this website go, what a great resource for a hobby that I'm quite convinced will end up consuming much of my time.

    I have acquired a Svea 123 and Sigg Tourist set. The stove was shipped by air full of gas! How it cleared TSA I have no idea. I tore it down and gave it a quick cleanup with vinegar paste and a buffing wheel with paste. It's quite scruffy and I think prior owner may have hit it with paper or wool.

    A couple questions, how many turns from full closed to full blast should it be? Second, is it normal to have that mesh around the wick?


    20241109_125600.jpg 1000015069.jpg 1000015070.jpg 1000015082.jpg
     
  2. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Welcome, @Hiker_Steve

    1. The brass sleeve on the wick is not uncommon. Check that it’s not clogged with soot. Check also that your wick isn’t heavily charred.

    2. These stoves are self pressurising so the preheat plus early burning will increase pressure in the tank. Open the valve enough initially to get a good flame (about 1/4 of a turn).

    After the stove get hot open the valve a bit more ( —> 1/2 turn) and the stove should be running well and sounding like a helicopter…


    Cheers

    Tony
     
  3. Remus1956

    Remus1956 Subscriber

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    Hello! You have a nice 123 there (not a 123r)
    You will want to take the tank cap apart and replace the little rubber (or sometimes cork) pip inside there. You can punch one out yourself out of some viton or buy some already done. This is a safety feature for the self pressurizing nature of the stove.
    If you want to see what one looks like just search the forum for it... plenty of photos of them
     
  4. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Looks like a Svea 123 just after Optimus bought that line of stoves in 1969. So early Optimus 123.
    Well done. An excellent stove.
     
  5. Majicwrench

    Majicwrench Subscriber

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    "How many turns.."
    AN interesting question, why do you ask? Once the stove is running you can open the valve as far as it goes. I might run downstairs and see how many turns it will go. Let me guess at 1.5 turns from off to full on. Will see in a minute.

    Have you done the freezer test? A vital, simple step on all these.

    Was using my 123R just a few days ago, welcome to the madness.

    EDIT My 123 goes 5 turns from off to full stop. My 71 goes almost 8 turns!
    I would bet you get "full blast" way before full stop, might have to try that out as well.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2024
  6. Hiker_Steve United States

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    I asked because after tearing it down and reassembling it once just to test fire it, I reach full tilt after about 2 turns open from shut, but I can keep backing it out many turns, ill have to go count but probably 8 ish.

    Enlighten me on the freezer test, I put it in water to check for leaks, checked the relief valve for freedom of movement and it feels brand new. I'm thinking I'll lap the fuel valve, it seals well but has wear, do you know of any good lapping tool tricks? I was pondering profiling a piece of tig rod to do the seat.

    I have all new parts for it so I'll get it rebuilt and post some action shots with some beef stew in the Sigg.
     
  7. Hiker_Steve United States

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    Yes I believe it to be about that era, maybe first run after Optimus bought them, I wanted a 123 instead of an R. While I like a self cleaning feature I wanted the simplest most bomb proof version as in addition to using this on 1-2 night backing trips, it is my SHTF stove for gasoline/white gas.
     
  8. Majicwrench

    Majicwrench Subscriber

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    Two turns to full blast sounds good to me.

    I would not lap the valve. These are a common problem, but it yours seals well leave it alone. The needle and seat have mated together, some wear is normal.

    Loosen fill cap, stick stove in freezer for a bit. Remove, tighten cap, and submerge in warm water. The water will heat (and expand) the air in tank and will bubble if leaks. The fill cap gasket on most of these old things needs replacing. ANY bubbles will dramatically reduce power.
     
  9. Hiker_Steve United States

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    It does seal so I'll leave it for now, I'm just persnickety with my equipment. I'm from the nuclear world so details, details, details...

    I will do a pressure test once I rebuild it (awaiting parts.) I'll do this with a Ralston calibration rig so I can set the relief valve and check the lift and re-seat pressures. I can also do a leak down test on the assembled stove both at 32F and 150F to test it at the ends of its operating window. I'll cut a custom tank cap with a fitting to facilitate testing. I'll datalog all of this for your viewing pleasure.
     
  10. Majicwrench

    Majicwrench Subscriber

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    Looking forward to your testiing, especially the SRV #s
     
  11. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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  12. magpiestovie

    magpiestovie Subscriber

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    Interesting thread. Just received my first 71 and the valve goes from off to full stop in 17 180 degree turns. Is this ok or do I need to fettle.
     
  13. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    "Full open" and "Full on" are 2 different things.
    Max flame is "Full on".
    Opening further will not increase flame.

    Judge the size of the flame and the sound of the flame to determine. It will always increase as the stove gets hotter.
     
  14. Majicwrench

    Majicwrench Subscriber

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    As I mentioned above, my 71 takes about 8 360 deg turns to full on stop, so yours sounds a lot like mine, normal.
     
  15. magpiestovie

    magpiestovie Subscriber

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    Thanks, that's good to know!
     
  16. magpiestovie

    magpiestovie Subscriber

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    Noted, thanks
     
  17. Hiker_Steve United States

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    The addiction has taken hold, second stove acquired. I needed a windscreen, I told myself... 1000015153.jpg
     
  18. Hiker_Steve United States

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    Cleaned it up, prior owner seems to have maintained it well, all rubber pliant and srv free and smooth. Wick was practically new, and graphite looked good n'uff. Hit it with the brass wheel and slapped it together, some coleman fuel and away it goes. 1000015159.jpg 1000015161.jpg 1000015164.jpg
     
  19. Majicwrench

    Majicwrench Subscriber

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    Now you have an "R" version!