@kerophile By wide I mean the width of the cylinder, so it is 2 inches down from the burner. I will measure my priming fluid next time. I am going to try to raise the shield to see if the increased air helps.
Hi @snwcmpr I made mine from a cylindical, thin walled stainless steel donor bottle. The windshield section is approx. 78mm OD and 60mm in height. When installed there is a cicumferential gap between the top of the burner and the windshield. This ensures that the windshield can act as a chimney, allowing hot gases from the priming burn to flow upwards around the burner without being impeded by the burner itself. It is effectively bypass flow which allows the prime to burn freely, heating the burner, without choking on its own exhaust. Best Regards, Kerophile.
@kerophile @Afterburner @Tony Press I see there are several ways that the flame rose up the burner. The loose fit and the removing of the burner cap. I will measure my meths today and tonight I think I will drill some holes at the top of the windscreen. Thanks, Ken in NC
Hi Ken @ snwcmpr, holes are the way to go I reckon. Look forward to hearing about your results. Good Luck, George.
I drilled (3) 1/8" dia holes and tried it. Better. Then I drilled 2 more. Even better, I was able to prime it with 15 ml of denatured alcohol. No yellow, straight to a blue flame. So, I drilled 6 more (11 holes) and primed with 15 ml of alcohol, and this time I could see the flames coming out of the holes. And, this is in daylight. Again, it lit with no yellow at the end of the prime. NOTE: I did let it cool down in between each session. This was daylight hours about 75 F in the shade. Thanks, @Tony Press and @kerophile This is a very functional addition to this stove. It works well. I would have made it a bit longer if I had it to do over. I added a photo of my alcohol dispenser. Ken in NC
! @snwcmpr One of the beauties of this stove is, that if protected from draft either indoors or with an external windshield, they will simmer at low temperature for hours. On my recent road trip I used it with a cast iron "duty oven" to slow cook a number of meals. Cheers Tony
Hi @snwcmpr Looking good! I think I will need to get the drill out to apply the same "tweak" to the improvised windshields I made for some of Op.111 silent burners. There are always lessons to be learned from CCS. Best Regards, Kerophile
Hi Ken, I have not yet tried the holes. I have been hibernating over the winter and drilling holes in stainless steel is a pain. I will do it when Spring arrives and let you know how I get on. Best Regards Kerophile.
After visiting @Tony Press last weekend and "experiencing" his Heinze Geniols, I decided to create my own version of a windshield... Seems to work! Doesn't appear to affect the flame... Full on... Even on simmer... Donor material - A stainless steel milk jug... Investment in a Dremel (new toys) helped!
So... Since my last post I've been justifying my Dremel purchase and gaining skill in it's application to HG windshields. Warning! This is very "photo centric"! I've "sculpted" six versions in total, each with a different donor and consequently subtle differences. As you will notice I subscribe to the "fire-in-the-well" Methylated Spirits/glass fibre wick priming option. I am currently amassing materials/tools for creating an occlusive cap for where the "flame thrower" protrudes... Version 1: Previously posted and modified since then - donor SS milk jug Version 2: Random $2 conical SS beaker purchased in culinary shop Version 3: Cheap ($1 at the Tip Shop) promotional insulated mug Unfortunately my skills with the Dremel weren't developed fully (or was it my tremor) and one of the three lugs that I had created was severed, leading to removal of the other two as well. The SS is very thin walled (0.2mm) and flexible. Version 4: SS thermos ($2 Tip Shop) from which I removed the uppermost outer portion. I always take my tape measure and vernier to the Tip Shop/Opportunity/Culinary shop these days! Thicker wall (0.4mm) makes this one firmer. My first attempt at six lugs around the upper perimeter, permitting additional stability and even spacing of the windshield in relation to the burner. Version 5: Another SS insulated mug, but this one had been a more expensive model (not to me at the Tip Shop though) Aladdin. When I removed the plastic liner I discovered that the space between the liner and SS shell had been filled with expanding PU foam. Not fun to remove and potentially toxic too! Wall thickness 0.2mm, so very flexible, allowing me to reduce the "lead in" hole for the spindle shaft. I've marked it up for potential future removal of skirt material. Version 6: Another cheap Tip Shop insulated mug With this one I reduced the overall height so that the upper rim is of equal height to the burner (total height 62mm) and become quite creative with the spindle hole. Consequence is that it is not easy to remove from the burner, however I squirt 5ml of Methylated spirits under each side of the windshield and fire it without needing to lift it up. Seems to work... What have I learned? - Improved Dremel handling skills. - Ideal upper outer diameter of 76mm (70mm burner bell) when measuring potential donor vessels. This allows for the chimney/bypass effect. - 60-62mm optimal overall height. Protrusion above the burner bell height does tend to focus/corral the flame a little. - Thin walled vessels achieve the desired outcome with more flexibility in sculpting. - Raising the skirt or additional holes may negate the desired effect by allowing additional wind to blow in. There has to be some relationship between available inflow of air and chimney escape area, I'm thinking an inflow of about 1.4 times the outflow? So, now I have four spare HG windshields! Any takers? Rodger
Great work man, looks top notch, and love the stove, I'm still kinda green hear and don't know what it is but I know I like it and now there is another one on my wish list, well that is when I figure out what it is lol.
Hi @Rodger Willows . Brilliant post! Equally applicable to the “Long” windshield used on the Optimus 111T and the British Military No.12 cooker. Thanks for posting. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi @Detroithiker . The stove with the featured windshield is the Heinze/Geniol military outfit used by the German and Netherlands Armies: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/heinze-geniol-military-stove-germany.30183/ https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/heinze-geniol-military-stove.38221/ Best Regards, Kerophile.
@Detroithiker It's one of these. Certainly not your back-packer stove; but definitely a base camp work horse. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/heinze-geniol-military-stove-germany.30183/ Cheers Tony Edit: crossed with @kerophile
@Rodger Willows Excellent work and extremely well documented research project! Burner itself takes/needs quite much air for burning. Evaporated fuel that comes out from the jet sucks air around and that mixture goes inside (actually between) of the burner caps. I have noticed that clean burning needs quote open wind shield. For similar burner(#207) that I have used in Optimus 45 (and 00) I made a wind shield from a brass tube. I left couple of cm / near inch opening to the side of the wind shield for intake air. See some pictures here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-45-silensio-r.29170/#post-297984 Even with that configuration on indoors I noticed that stove creates some smell of un-burnt kerosene. Also on winter when I use Optimus 111 or 111T in a tent I have noticed that they don't create kerosene smell when I use them without their original wind screen. On outdoors air intake is not so critical. Just that flame stays clean(blue) so there would not be soot build-up on cookware.