So...I have this coming to me in a few weeks for about $30 dollars figuring this would be a good one for the electrolysis tank... However... I am not sure if it's just really filthy or its black paint. I can see green under it... The original paint.... I'm thinking maybe it's grime and I can save it .. Or I throw it to the sarlacc pit (what I call the electrolysis tank .. See what I did there @Pharael ?) and remove it all and try some creative paint and repro logo stickers...or just repaint it black but cleaner... Figure I would throw it out to you all The electrolysis tank awaits
It has been given a coat of black paint to 'smarten it up', not that uncommon once the original graphics got scorched/abraded/corroded. Personally, I'd have a go at scraping the black paint off and seeing what the original finish is like underneath. Going carefully with something softish like the corner of a bank card, chipping as much as scraping.... Some paints will flake off cleanly and easily, others will be a pain. It might just be the case that the top couple of inches of the tin are a bit charred as usual, and tat was enough to trigger the black paint. The tin will be the same as this example, it's the interesting version with the fibre disc SRV. I'm working on one as we speak. In bed. Tools and Viton and punches all over the place. Because it's a flipping hard frost outside.
You could also try pouring over some boiling hot water. If cheap acrylic or other type paint was used, that may be enough to shock it loose from the good stuff underneath Alec.
@Blackdog and you put a new wick in it from the filter cap hole? I don't see that having any way to grab it with a wrench haha... Yeah... I'll try both methods when it gets here @Rangie I suspect a bad seal caused a leak and burned it... Easy to remedy You can see the fuel caramelized on the bottom... It's been there for some time.
Yes, @Remus1956, remove the filler cap and it becomes clear- the wick is wrapped about a pressed steel carrier which can be grasped with suitable pliers and withdrawn, or otherwise hooked out. The SRV might be a bit of a pain to set up, the adjusting screw head is weak and has been damaged on many examples including this one by the looks of it.
Anti graffiti products might get that black off. You have nothing to loose. That paint is not good enough to paint over so has to come off. The paint under it might not be any better If you save whats under it consider it a bonus
@geeves yeah I'm already settled that it was painted and probably to try to cover up a burn...so must likely will try a bunch of stuff to try to lift it off and if I screw it up well it will go back to black but a better job of it.
Ok so I got the stove from France. It's in good shape in a way... The box is worse. Ok so for the stove.... It needed a jet, replacement graphite, tank cap gasket, wick, and SRV gaskets. I think everything was made of asbestos as it was gray in color and was felt like. But the stove runs just like my Primus 71...so that's good so far. Photos of the stove running..... The case... Well it's ok but there was nothing left of the paint other than a few specs of green. So I put it in the electrolysis tank...and discovered that the heat shield has some rot...and it's cracked in two pieces almost...so I'm ordering some 1mm brass plates and I'm going to replace it with a new piece. I got the case stripped and waiting for it to dry...I think I'll go with primer and black again...and keep that brass heat shield bare...I think it will look cool. Photos of the wife helping... She likes to be part of it so she is doing this stove replacing the graphite and wick herself...I did the gaskets and the rest . She is helping me with the stencil for the heat shield here
Well some good news I guess and some bad news on it. The radius case was rough. About 10 percent of the original paint was left and it was flaky so I just restored the black paint. The black paint was absolutely not fireproof anyway... Don't know why it was painted with what I would say was house paint. It would melt... Bubble and burn like a candle. I took all that off. The really bad was that the case itself is shot full of pin holes from rust or corrosion... If you hold it to the light you can see through it in portions near the pot rests and the heat shield is pretty flimsy. I think I'll leave it as it is. It's stabile enough to use. I think I'll use it but I don't think I'll use it other than car camp type of use. It's pretty delicate
Burning a treat! And nice to have a control spindle which isn't mashed either! Given the age of the tin and neglect it's great you still have something which is at least usable. They were intended to be lightweight, and it's pure chance whether they get stored in the dry for 90-odd years continuously or get shoved somewhere damp for a while...
@Blackdog Yeah its strong enough to hold my coffee pot and the usual stuff, but will keep it light duty so the holes the legs are set in the case dont get worn out or crumble. Stove runs like a bat out of hell...that was the easier part. Needed it all, but responded well. The wrench fits tight with a slight wobble but not enough to make me think to compress it or worry it will slip. Just the pot stands and holes in the case are my concern.
@Blackdog following up on the stove. Its finicky.... Likes to me preheat twice before burning... But it works. Made a plate for it from a brass sheet as the original is crumbling. Still have it but put it in a baggie as little pieces of it burn off when preheating with spirits. I think it will be a nice stove to use but I think it will be more of a shelf stove as the pot rests are moving a little when a pot is on it
If you want to use it out and about ther'es always the option of making a windshield... either some metal folding or some of the Primus No.71D inspired examples that have been seen of late.... Odd that it needs a couple of preheats, it certainly looks healthy once running. Did you have a poke about in the passageways in the burner to dislodge any carbon?
@Blackdog Yep...I think its weird too. I did a dunk test and produced no bubbles at all. This was cleaned out as best as possible barring high heat as this is not threaded but soldered together. New wick, flushed tank, new gaskets, cleaned jet with citric acid, new graphite. I used long thin pipe cleaners and small brushes to clear from tank to jet with the jet removed. Should run like a bat out of hell...runs bright for 30 seconds and then almost shuts off. Second preheat makes it consistent burn at any volume (simmer to high flame)
