Does anyone make a jointed nipple/jet remover like this one (below) - but the correct size for the larger nipple as found on the Radius 43/Optimus 111 etc. I'm working on my Radius No.43 and the nipple is absolutely jammed tight. Hopefully I won't need to remove it. The odd shape and arrangement of the burner tubes means that I can't use the spanner that comes with an Optimus 111 or old 8R (the only space I can get the spanner on leaves it tight against a burner tube. I've tried using this spanner but it won't budge the nipple and its starting to distort: Help appreciated. Cheers Tony
someone once posted about using an automotive points spanner . SnapOn i think . or Proto . a meaty little open ender but with a different angle . kerry i have an idea that i might have bookmarked it . but i cant find where to find bookmarked posts .
@Tony Press I took one of the jointed ones ( like in your picture) that was already distorted, and enlarged it to fit the 111 jet. Dremel and small metalfiles and a lot of patience. The result was Ok, but nothing more. Still hard to get any real torque on the jet...
Hi @Tony Press , perhaps magneto spanner/ wrench? Or model makers offset spanners: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bergen-18...367392&hash=item56a242b692:g:LUwAAOSwYudXGN8E https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...panner.TRS0&_nkw=mini+offset+spanner&_sacat=0 Best Regards, Kerophile.
Tony, Your little wrench that can not handle the torque... do you think heating the burner to 400F ish and placing wrench in the freezer might help? Attaching a small block of ice to wrench even better. Apply the torque just as brass reacts to the temp change. Yours is different scenario but cold wrench onto heated burner may be just enough to help the little wrench break jet loose? Basis for concept here . Brass is so darn unforgiving in most aspects but I like using the excellent thermal conductivity to an advantage when possible. thx omc
Hi @Tony Press. I've usually use a Russian 8R clone wrench to remove the Radius 43 jet. It's a bit tricky but works. Risking you to damage the jet... Did you consider to hit the jet tangencialy anti clockwise with an awl or sharped chisel? Good look. Best regards. Héctor.
@Celsius233 I'll leave it as it is and see whether it burns ok. The burner tubes aren't coked up, and the jet seems ok. If it needs replacing I will resort to drastic measures like you suggest. The other thing I was thinking of is cutting off a long steel NRV remover and making a steel version of the brass one pictured above. Cheers Tony
Tony, if all fails some heating then cooling may loosen the threads. By cooling I mean the cooling stuff in a can which is a freezing spray. You can get it at most auto shops. By this method I have always been able to get apart any stud or bolt withought destroying it. Let’s see if the jet and burner is ok first. Cheers Rob
@Longilily The holes in the capstan (that take the stainless rod) are distorting. It's such a good tool under normal circumstances that I don't want to ruin it. The nipple itself has been rounded a bit in the past. I went looking for an offset spanner over the weekend but to no avail. I might use the link provided by @kerophile. I had the stove running last night. Wo! What a beast. The flame started very yellow (result of cleaning, I imagine) but settled down after a while. Still a bit yellow at the tips - I'll run it again today and see if it improves further. Cheers Tony
Well, I guess one answer is to make a steel capstan Seem to remember someone here, was going to contact the Ebay seller to get some more made, think the seller (Vargo, something or other) agreed to make some more too, maybe he could make one in steel for you. Think it may of been something @Doc Mark was looking into, but could be wrong. If not, I may be able to help, things are getting a bit easier for me of late, so can prob help
@Longilily I think I'll eventually make an 'approximate' steel capstan specifically for this stove by modifying a standard Swedish NRV remover. If it's a success I'll post the specs here. In the meantime... I fired the stove again today and heated the burner then sprayed a "freeze" spray; repeat three times; apply the brass capstan... it will not budge! But, the flame is getting better the much better the more fuel I burn; so I might leave as is until I build my remover. Last night: Today: Flame getting better: It boiled one pint to just boiling in 4 minutes and a vigourousbrolling boil in 4m37s: Cheers Tony
Another thing to try. Warm the burner and apply penetrating oil. Repeat daily. Add equal amount of remaining patience.
@snwcmpr When I finished fiddling with it last night I left the nipple soaking in penetrating oil while I pondered the next move (which might include leaving it as is). I've been quite zen about this stove, and my thinking is now about rigging a steel nipple remover to fit that space. The last thing I want is a rounded nipple with a distorted jet that's still stuck in the burner. As it is, the flame is getting less yellow and left no soot on the pot last night (just brown scorch marks). The boil time is to specifications (almost). Cheers Tony
It sounds like it's working great. Why do you need to remove the nipple? Let whoever inherits this stove 100 years from now figure out how to remove it. ....Arch
@ArchMc Arch, of course you are right... but being a stubborn b@st@rd, I made this from a standard hard steel NRV remover: The sound of the "crack" as it unfroze was quite satisfying. I then used the brass capstan pictured earlier in this thread to take the nipple off the burner. @Longilily: FYI. More tomorrow. Cheers Tony