Jet remover for Radius 43/Optimus 111 etc?

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by Tony Press, Sep 30, 2017.

  1. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Does anyone make a jointed nipple/jet remover like this one (below) - but the correct size for the larger nipple as found on the Radius 43/Optimus 111 etc.

    IMG_3699.jpg

    I'm working on my Radius No.43 and the nipple is absolutely jammed tight. Hopefully I won't need to remove it.

    The odd shape and arrangement of the burner tubes means that I can't use the spanner that comes with an Optimus 111 or old 8R (the only space I can get the spanner on leaves it tight against a burner tube.

    I've tried using this spanner but it won't budge the nipple and its starting to distort:

    IMG_3678.jpg


    Help appreciated.


    Cheers

    Tony
     
  2. kerry460

    kerry460 Australia R.I.P.

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    someone once posted about using an automotive points spanner .
    SnapOn i think . or Proto .
    a meaty little open ender but with a different angle .

    kerry

    i have an idea that i might have bookmarked it .
    but i cant find where to find bookmarked posts .
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2017
  3. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @kerry460

    Thanks. Someone else here might remember.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  4. janders

    janders Subscriber

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    @Tony Press
    I took one of the jointed ones ( like in your picture) that was already distorted, and enlarged it to fit the 111 jet.
    Dremel and small metalfiles and a lot of patience.

    The result was Ok, but nothing more. Still hard to get any real torque on the jet...
     
  5. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  6. OMC

    OMC United States Subscriber

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    Tony, Your little wrench that can not handle the torque... do you think heating the burner to 400F ish and placing wrench in the freezer might help? Attaching a small block of ice to wrench even better.
    Apply the torque just as brass reacts to the temp change.
    Yours is different scenario but cold wrench onto heated burner may be just enough to help the little wrench break jet loose? Basis for concept here .
    Brass is so darn unforgiving in most aspects but I like using the excellent thermal conductivity to an advantage when possible.
    thx omc
     
  7. Celsius233

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    Hi @Tony Press.

    I've usually use a Russian 8R clone wrench to remove the Radius 43 jet. It's a bit tricky but works.


    Russian_Spanner.jpeg

    Risking you to damage the jet... Did you consider to hit the jet tangencialy anti clockwise with an awl or sharped chisel?

    Good look.

    Best regards.
    Héctor.
     
  8. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Celsius233

    I'll leave it as it is and see whether it burns ok. The burner tubes aren't coked up, and the jet seems ok.

    If it needs replacing I will resort to drastic measures like you suggest.

    The other thing I was thinking of is cutting off a long steel NRV remover and making a steel version of the brass one pictured above.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  9. Robert Bruce

    Robert Bruce SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Tony, if all fails some heating then cooling may loosen the threads. By cooling I mean the cooling stuff in a can which is a freezing spray. You can get it at most auto shops. By this method I have always been able to get apart any stud or bolt withought destroying it. Let’s see if the jet and burner is ok first.

    Cheers
    Rob
     
  10. Peter.C

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    Hi Tony what are the dimensions of the nipple mate? I may be able to knock something up.
     
  11. Longilily

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    What's distorting Tony, the spanner (brass/capstan spanner) or the nipple ?
     
  12. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Longilily

    The holes in the capstan (that take the stainless rod) are distorting. It's such a good tool under normal circumstances that I don't want to ruin it. The nipple itself has been rounded a bit in the past.

    I went looking for an offset spanner over the weekend but to no avail. I might use the link provided by @kerophile.

    I had the stove running last night. Wo! What a beast. The flame started very yellow (result of cleaning, I imagine) but settled down after a while. Still a bit yellow at the tips - I'll run it again today and see if it improves further.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  13. Longilily

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    Well, I guess one answer is to make a steel capstan :-k

    Seem to remember someone here, was going to contact the Ebay seller to get some more made, think the seller (Vargo, something or other) agreed to make some more too, maybe he could make one in steel for you. Think it may of been something @Doc Mark was looking into, but could be wrong.
    If not, I may be able to help, things are getting a bit easier for me of late, so can prob help
     
  14. janders

    janders Subscriber

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    I would love to have one of that tool as well...
     
  15. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Longilily

    I think I'll eventually make an 'approximate' steel capstan specifically for this stove by modifying a standard Swedish NRV remover. If it's a success I'll post the specs here.

    In the meantime...

    I fired the stove again today and heated the burner then sprayed a "freeze" spray; repeat three times; apply the brass capstan... it will not budge!

    But, the flame is getting better the much better the more fuel I burn; so I might leave as is until I build my remover.


    Last night:
    IMG_3790.JPG

    Today:
    IMG_3804.JPG

    Flame getting better:
    IMG_3805.JPG

    IMG_3812.JPG

    IMG_3813.JPG


    It boiled one pint to just boiling in 4 minutes and a vigourousbrolling boil in 4m37s:
    IMG_3796.JPG

    IMG_3797.JPG

    IMG_3799.JPG

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  16. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Another thing to try.
    Warm the burner and apply penetrating oil.
    Repeat daily.
    Add equal amount of remaining patience.
     
  17. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @snwcmpr

    When I finished fiddling with it last night I left the nipple soaking in penetrating oil while I pondered the next move (which might include leaving it as is).

    I've been quite zen about this stove, and my thinking is now about rigging a steel nipple remover to fit that space. The last thing I want is a rounded nipple with a distorted jet that's still stuck in the burner.

    As it is, the flame is getting less yellow and left no soot on the pot last night (just brown scorch marks). The boil time is to specifications (almost).

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  18. ArchMc

    ArchMc SotM Winner Subscriber

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    It sounds like it's working great. Why do you need to remove the nipple? Let whoever inherits this stove 100 years from now figure out how to remove it.

    ....Arch
     
  19. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @ArchMc

    Arch, of course you are right... but being a stubborn b@st@rd, I made this from a standard hard steel NRV remover:

    IMG_3825.JPG

    IMG_3826.JPG

    The sound of the "crack" as it unfroze was quite satisfying.

    I then used the brass capstan pictured earlier in this thread to take the nipple off the burner.

    @Longilily: FYI.

    More tomorrow.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  20. Longilily

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    Well done Tony :clap:

    "Satisfying" I'm sure is an understatement :lol: ;)