Look - How I made pump leathers by myself

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by sefaudi, Jun 26, 2006.

  1. sefaudi

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    Dear All,

    I feel proud of my success on making pump leather myself. I was trying to make them for a while. But since I have no digital camera, I could not share them before. The photos seen below show my latest productions.

    th_GONGON-1.jpg

    GONGON-2.jpg

    Immediately I replaced all pump leathers of my stoves. Great! Perfect performance !
    The material I used is real leather. Its height (or depth) may seem too much but I did it intentionally because this length allows leather to hold more oil hence allows low friction and longer life ;) .

    Outer diameter is 17 mm, inner diameter is 14mm and diameter of the hole is 7 mm. They suit conventional 3 legs brass stoves.

    I also had success on making pump leather for smaller sizes i.e. 14 mm diameter which suit optimus 111, phoebus 625, etc. I will share also their photos shortly.

    My production speed of one pump leather is unfortunately one a day :evil: .

    I am waiting for your comments.

    Best regards,
    Sefa
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 25, 2015
  2. sefaudi

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    Dear All,

    First of all please forgive me for my late answer. But I have troubles on reaching forum page for a while. I get so much error messages while trying to connect :evil: . May be Ross can help me.

    Very much pleased to hear good opinions from you. Unfortunately I gave back the camera I barrowed from one of my friends :cry: . But as you see the photos given below you can imagine the whole process.


    First you need a mould. It is like a pipe. Inner diamater of the mould is 17mm. And there should be another part (i.e. male part) whose outer diameter should be 14 mm. One of my friend made this mould at turning lathe.

    Keep the leather (approx. 2 mm thickness) at least one day in water as this will allow leather to soften. After that period put the leather between inner and outer part of the mould. In order to put the leather inside the tube you will need a clamp. After clamping stage some parts of the leather will overflow as it is seen. At that stage I cut this overflowing part with a knife in order to get smooth border ;) .

    GONKALIP-2.jpg
    GONKALIP-1.jpg


    Keep this mould and the leather inside for approx one day. After that take the male part out and the leather. Now you should see that the leather has become dry.

    You can open a hole simply by a punch. I use 7 mm punch which allows suitable diameter the connect pump leather to pump rod.

    My mould is similar to Ross� mould as seen below (brass one). Special thanks to Ross whose design showed me the way :p .

    tool_01.jpg

    I think the most difficult point is to get a mould and a suitable leather. I buy leather from shoe makers.

    Should any further help occurs please let me know.
    That�s all I can describe with my poor English :oops: .

    Now, I am thinking of terminating my ongoing career (electrical engineer) and start pump leather production. Do you think I can still earn my living? :-k

    Best regards,
    Sefa
     
  3. Joseph63

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    Hi, I have received some pump leathers made by Sefa yesterday and immediately replaced one in a blow lamp with one of the new leathers.
    I was rather proud of the pump leathers I made for a 14 mm pump, but now that I have installed Sefa's 17mm in another one, I realize that my pump leathers are working but nothing near to the real stuff.
    I wonder, how do you manage that they stay in the cup shape?.
    I have seen some pictures of a acrylic mold where you obviously put your disks of leather in and than place the "centre pin" in.
    I have made a steel 'cup' shaped tool and from the same steel a 'stem' that has the size of the 'cup' plus the thickness of the leather material I have bought to make a small "bag" to protect a magnifying glass type "thread counter" but after a wile my pump leather nearly returns to it's original shape, unless it is immediately used in a pump.
    The one I made for my first blow lamp shown on this same forum is working well, but after seeing yours..... h'm the difference between a well willing amateur and a real pro.
    Absolutely fantastic.
    Joseph
     
  4. shagratork

    shagratork United Kingdom Moderator, R.I.P. Subscriber

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    Hi Sefa

    It may be just my computer, but I can not view your images.
    Photobucket tells me that your photo pages can not be found.

    Anyone help me?
     
  5. WallyT

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    I can not view images at all.
     
  6. Prindel

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    Sefa, I can't see them either but I would like to. I also have made my own.

    Regards, Ed
     
  7. sefaudi

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    .

    Come up this old forum again? Since I thought this topic has lost interest, I decided to delete pictures at Photobucket in order to save space reserved for me.

    Hey Joseph the trick to keep pump leathers in cup shape is to keep wet leather in the mould with male part still in it, until it gets dried. That's all.

    Here are the photos showing my latest productions. As can be seen colour of the pump gaskets depends on the leather used in manufacturing.

    GONTEKKAHVE.jpg

    GONKUCUKSIYAH.jpg

    GONBUYUKKAHVE.jpg

    GONBUYUKBEYAZ.jpg

    Best regards,
    Sefa
     
  8. spudz

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    Sefa,

    Lovely work on the pump leathers, and in different colours too .. very interesting.

    Can you do me some in blue with a yellow stripe ? ;) :lol: :lol: :lol:

    Only joking Sefa, your pump leathers are top quality as they are. Keep up the great work.
     
  9. nzmike

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    Good deal. Sefa! They look the biz, I'd use one any time.

    I've been experimenting with making leathers too, but so far not too impressive. I made a mould for 14mm cups from a section of steel tent pole that is the right diameter and has a useful swage in the end where the second part of the pole used to go. A cut off bolt shank 1mm larger than the brass cup nut is the male part, then push together in the bench vice. Is there any reason why the rough side of the leather has to be on the outside? Development continues.....
     
  10. sefaudi

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    Hey Nzmike,

    I wondered about that issue also and made some gaskets with rough part inside. But then I saw that gaskets lost the oil on it very shortly. Hence in order to get a longer frinctionless action, rough side should be at outer part.

    Sefa
     
  11. nzmike

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    Riiiiight, ok, I'm convinced. Thought there would be a perfectly good reason. 8) There is a shoe maker near my work, I'll hit him up for some 2mm leather and try again.... :lol: :lol:
     
  12. Ian

    Ian Subscriber

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    Also I'd say, at a guess, that the rough side stretches to take the convex curve more readily than the finished side.
     
  13. oops56

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    Why go to the shoe shop have you not got some old shoes at home i use mine for lots of thimgs
     
  14. Lance

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    You also cut the bottom out of a perfectly good pan for no appearant reason other than to see your face framed in the middle. :lol: :lol: :lol: Now i'm wondering does your wife have any shoes you have not cut up to make something in or for your work shop? :lol: :lol: :lol:

    lance
     
  15. Prindel

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    I have to say I am sure most of us wonder what the heck is up with that picture for his avatar. What is the deal Robert? :shock: :D

    Ed
     
  16. Ian

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    I may be wrong, but I think it was heat diffyser for an oven or some such thing that needed a piece of cast iron.
     
  17. oops56

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    Yep i used it on a flour canister can to make a oven i put up picture but one compture is dead i fix it good trying to get back working bios dead o well the spare is crashing this laptop ok but i cant seam to set my cookes to work a new desk top pc on its way the first one that i order it had vista in it the more i read about it i cancel that one and getting one with windows xp
     
  18. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith Subscriber

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    You may find 2mm is a bit too thick, Mike - 1.6-1.8mm works better... |imgRemoved|
     
  19. piglett

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    hello

    was browsing and looked at your pump leathers and was very much impressed.
    I have a burmus stove which was my grandads and would love to see it working again after so many years. The only fault that i can see is the pump will not give any presssure, probably down to the washer being old. I was hopeing that you could send me one of your new leathers you have made as I have no way of makeing a mould to do this myself.please let me know the cost to make and send to england.

    Look forward to hearing from you and maybe fireing up this old stove again.

    regards
     
  20. fyldefox

    fyldefox R.I.P.

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    Hi Piglett

    I suggest that you send Sefa a PM about supplying pump leathers, in case he misses your post on the forum.

    Cheers