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M-1950 stove (made by Coleman in 1952)

Discussion in 'Military' started by Knight84, Sep 27, 2009.

  1. Knight84 Canada

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    Congrats on getting another stove. Never hurts to have spares or maybe down the road you might get the parts to make two complete stoves.

    As for the generators. The problem with these stoves is they get "choked up" over time. Due to their small size they get plugged up fast.

    You need to get the screen inside out to clean it right. It can be hard to get the screen out sometimes. You can use a paper clip or pick tool to put it out. Sometimes they are really stuck in there. Heating them up will help loosen things up. Soaking in carb cleaner or brake cleaner helps.

    Do you have spare screens ? Found in the pump tube.

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  2. Grizzley

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    Jeff, sorry I could not get back to you sooner.
    The wrench was there, along with spare parts in the plunger and in the little compartment. There were just no seals. But those should get here in a couple of weeks.
    I also carry a Dragonfly stove. I made up a pre-heater for the Cub; everything fits in a .50 caliber ammo box. The stove is very good. I just wanted a stove that would easily pack in the survival "grab" bag I attach near exit, that is what the 536 will be used for.
    Thanks,
    JD
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  3. Tye536

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    Greetings Jeff! Apologies for being a bit sidetracked lately. Anyway, I've made progress in my education of these little stoves. It's said that man needs at least one aggrevation in life. Thank god now I have two, so my wife is not a viable candidate. Not that she ever was but I cant even list her as a ready reserve in case I really feel like blaming someone for my own BS! HaHa, anyway I've got a ways to go. I am good at pulling screens And REROLLING! But.....Till next time...Ken
     
  4. Knight84 Canada

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    I am glad you have found another aggravation. :lol: These stove can cause some of that. Just watch your blood pressure. ;)

    Do you need any other parts?

    Jeff
     
  5. Tye536

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    A little winded, but short story. When starting either stove, I turn indicator knob to left and count to 3-5k. Crank back and light. 90% of attempts, fuel in primer cup fails to light. Good Flame in burner assembly, but coleman fuel only stays lit approx 35 sec. Not enough for preheat. When I am able to get ignition at the jet(orafice)in Light position, I have approx 14-16in high flame (alot)with quite abit of flamming overspray (too much psi @ 10 strokes?)have not been able to get generator to vaporize fuel for proper combustion. Sucssessful one time, but flame was approx 2in high quite a bit of orange in it. I am going to try the carb cleaner on the mesh tomorrow, and I received new nitrile rebuild parts. Differences in SMP/Fiesta parts...Fiesta burner assembly two piece welded assembly that has twist adjustable venting, SMP two piece weld non adjust. VERY SHALLOW threads on SMP at burner assembly and generator not interchangable with Fiesta. Convex surface that generator mates to badly machined(air gapping)There was a clay substance here from factory to facilitate sealing. Fiesta wont light up, it's used and needs rebuild so it has excuse. Everything else about the fiesta seems in order. So all this explains my new found pyromania!!!!! :rage: :-({|= :D/
     
  6. Knight84 Canada

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    Hello,

    Do you have a wick in your preheating cup? That prime sounds long enough kinda. Your pump might be working too well now. So you may only need a 5 or so pumps.

    When you say adjustable venting what do you mean? The brass burner bell inside the stainless steel bell. It is not designed to adjust. You need to have those vents open all the way.

    Ah I see your pain. These stove were built under contract. They seem to vary in a lot of ways.

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  7. Tye536

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    Jeff!!!!! I have USABLE FLAME!!!! Sort of. Got the SMP Fired up. Not perfect blue flame as originally yet but getting there. Seven pumps to prime followed by eight to burn. Seems to work. Good blue flame inside cup turning orange outside top rim. At least it boils water which is what I wanted. Yes wick is in cup. The one second prime doesnt seem to hold with Coleman Fuel, then again, I dont intend to use unleaded anyway. Not enough fuel reaches the wick through drain holes and Burns too fast to effectively heat generator with one second prime. I believe the basis for the rotating burner cup from the Fiesta is that the cup vents can be closed in order to facilitate draining prime fuel to cup. Twist open for full venting during operation. It appears to be fabricated this way intentionally. I'm one of those sorts that has to know how something works and if it doesnt fix it. Next is to the Fiesta. Pumps, primes, ignites, but blows self out as soon as knob is moved past light position. I first came across these stoves in the seventies while at Ft. Bragg, wanted one badly regardless of extra weight (HATE N.C. Winters). Our company did not supply them. Has anyone actually tried seriously to improve performance issues?
     
  8. Knight84 Canada

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    Your getting better at these stoves than me.

    Sorry I forgot to say last post that you need to keep the valve open longer for more priming fuel to come out. I normally open it all the way for 10 seconds or so depending on the temp.

    Regards
    Jeff
     
  9. Knight84 Canada

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    The problem with the M-1950 (Coleman 536) is that the design will not really allow for any change. Performance is kinda stuck where it is at. The stove will never really be able to simmer but then again it was never made to. The only improvement that I know of would be using one of Gary's Midi silent caps. But that would just help with the noise level I believe.

    I should have added these pictures along with my first post. The M-1950 has a "different" control valve and cleaning rod similar to what Tilley was/is using. The cleaning needle and fuel control is done by one knob.

    1264225743-IMG_2479_opt.jpg 1264225952-IMG_2491_opt.jpg

    In the first picture above. The graphite packing is inside the jam nut below the knob. The cleaning needle and generator are also not shown.
    As you see the M-1950 is not like the M-1942-Mod or the 520. It lacks a control spindle. The job of shutting off the flow of fuel to the generator is done by a spring and rubber seal.

    1264226310-IMG_2482_opt.jpg 1264226298-IMG_2480_opt.jpg 1264226339-IMG_2488_opt.jpg

    1264226545-IMG_2473_opt.jpg 1264226558-IMG_2477_opt.jpg 1264227484-IMG_2495_opt.jpg

    Depending on where the contol knob is pointed will move the control rod up or down. There are only three positions that the stove really is made for. Off Light and On.

    Below is a picture of the stove as if it was off. the cleaning needle is all the way up. So therefore the rod is up so the spring can push the seal up and not allow the flow of fuel.

    1264226763-IMG_2497_opt.jpg

    In the picture below the stove is in "light" position. The cleaning rod is down but not all the way. The rod is pushing the brass center of the seal down to allow for some fuel to pass.

    1264226769-IMG_2498_opt.jpg

    In the picture below is the a picture as if the stove was on. The cleaning needle is all the way down. Therefore the rod is pushing the seal and spring all the way down allowing 100% fuel flow.

    1264226776-IMG_2499_opt.jpg

    It is interesting to note that on this stove when it is "on" the fuel rod/needle is down and partly blocking the fuel pickup hole. That is backwards to what the Coleman 520 does.

    A fun stove to fettle indeed!

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 27, 2015
  10. Tye536

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    :-k I kind of thought that the one second rule by the book was a little inadequate. Thanks for the info. I was actually hesitant to go beyond 5 sec's on the prime. I'll push it up and see how she fairs. I wanted to ask, the photo you've posted showing your 1950 in operation, is this the normal burn and flame pattern for your stove? This is pretty close almost ident to mine now. Originally flame was realitively short tipped, high pressure, very blue no orange at all flame. Supposedly this will work as a heater of sorts. What is your opinion on maximum burn time to run, or just run it flat out till the generator cloggs? By the way Great Photo's and I really appreciate you knowledge. You know, I believe you should seriously consider publishing an E-Book, I've gotten quite abit more out of our conversations than I could have gotten from my FM.
     
  11. Knight84 Canada

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    Yah the rules are bad. You can fill that priming cup even. But I normally put it to light for 5 seconds and then full on and then turn it off. Then hit it with a match.

    The picture of mine burning is kinda normal. Mine has a little more orange to it than normal because it is burner off some junk form the tank I have yet to clean out.

    I have never timed the burn time on this stove. They say 2 to 3 hours. I would guess 2 hours depending on pressure. :-k

    I would love to sit down and write about this stove. But there are so many other stoves out there to play with. One day when I get around to it I will write a "how to fettle/fix the M-1950" :lol:
    Until then feel free to ask questions.

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  12. Tye536

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    Greetings Jeff,
    Have'nt had a chance to get back to my bench since last post. Since I have two of these things now, I think I'll use one of them to test performance using several different fuels. I have'nt stumbled across any data sheets on various fuels burned in these units. They did claim it to be a MULTI fuel unit. I've read the stories, and I did start this with emergency situation in mind. The other day when I fired No.1 up, I ran 30min., and yes this stove gets HOT. The Whole Stove.. I saw one listed on Ebay with Blistered Knob. I would say thats getting pretty hot. Sounded more like ignited, spilled fuel. Thats what prompted the concern about burn times. You made a reference to a "Gary's Midi Silent Cap" Could you please enlighten me? I'm leaning towards a vint. 111 after these but not sure. There's alot out there to "Fettle". I actually had to stop and look that up. Being a yank, and a Texan on top of that, you can imagine how many times I've heard that one.
    Well, as always, it's been a pleasure. I appreciate the conversation.

    Ken
     
  13. Lance United States

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    Most of these stoves came with a "simmer plate" which is a round sheet metal plate to fit on top of the pot supports. It serves two purposes, 1. it allows you to simmer even though you are using the stove in full thorttle mode, and 2. it prevents the stove from burning out or melting the canister pots if you should happen to burn it dry. The ideal size of the simmer plate is a round of about 16guage which will fit inside the canister and allow the stove to also fit inside and the top closed. I prefer my simmer plate to sit on the bottom of the stove when closing the canister set but some put it on the top. Either way is correct.

    lance
     
  14. Knight84 Canada

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    I believe these stoves can burn different fuels but should you. The generator getting clogged up is the only problem. Because this stove is able to carry spare generators I think it is the best suited emergency stove out there. I only burn Coleman fuel through mine.

    Here is a shot of a Gary's mini silent cap in action on the M-1950 I don't have the larger Midi silent cap ... yet. These are a burner cap made by one of this sites members.

    1264544900-IMG_2177_opt.jpg

    The vintage 111 are great stoves!!!! You should buy one. :lol: 10000 btu's of perfection.

    Nothing wrong with being a Texan in my books

    Cheers Ken,

    Jeff
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 27, 2015
  15. bolexguy United States

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    The 111 most likely has finer range of flame control but either is a workhorse and if you have a m1950 to play with then it should already be an easy choice.
     
  16. Knight84 Canada

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    The 111 is the better stove I would say. Full flame control from full blast to fine simmer, 4500 btu more than the M-1950. Both are workhorses but the 111 is the draft horse of the two. :lol:

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  17. Tye536

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    Went to the bench this afternoon, there sat N0.2, and thought to myself there is absolutely no explanation as to why this stove should'nt work.
    Ten pumps, opened the valve, gave it 10K count, closed the valve and torched her off. Brought her up to light. Beltched a little, flame settled down a little so I cranked her over to On. Little thing came on line like a GE-J47. Ran it for 30min and very happily shut it down! :clap:
    I cant really say that I was ready for this though,I was really into it! By the way, on this one, I rolled the generator screen out flat and lightly heated it to a cherry red with a pair of needle nose the other day when I ran No.1. Then I gently brushed it with light brass brush. Wow, what a difference.
    Now I'm looking at mounting one to the No.6 of my grandson's skateboard with an afterburner! Could be interesting, ya think? :-k
     
  18. Tye536

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    Hi Lance, good hearing from you. I had read some of your other posts here but I dont remember which topic. I am intrested in hearing more about this simmer plate. I have'nt ran across any references to one previously but I would appreciate hearing your input on the subject as this was going to be one of my next projects with the 1950. I'm also playing with the idea of shop fabbed burner assembly as one of the other members fabricated for his stove, that I could mount on the 1950. My thought is that it could possibly tame it a little? :-k Just a thought. Anyway good talking to you and thanks for the input.

    Ken
     
  19. Tye536

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    Good photography Jeff. What are you shooting with?
    I'm going to try to upload a couple shots of mine but I've never tried shooting in the dark like this. I have a Canon AE-1 Program with a myriad of lenses and stuff, but never thought about shots like this. Good stuff! :thumbup: + 10 Attaboys!

    Ken
     
  20. Knight84 Canada

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    I use an old old Canon powershot A520 4 mega pixel camera for all of my shots on this forum. It works and takes small file size pictures. My pictures might not win any awards but I try. :lol:

    The M-1950 does sounds like a rocket so it might just work on the skateboard! Worth a try. :lol:

    Cheers,
    Jeff