Make your own pump valve spanner

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Onepot, Jan 12, 2005.

  1. Onepot

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2004
    Messages:
    262
    I ordered a pump valve spanner from 'Base camp' and it was fine, but not up to the job of removing a seriously seized valve (in a 210).

    I decided to make one to do the job. I used a motorcycle engine bolt of 12mm diameter, cut it to length and cut a 5mm wide slot (4mm deep) into the end of it. I used a bolt so that I could use a socket and t-bar to turn the spanner.

    Bryan Miller had offered some advice and said that it wouldn't need to be hardened and he was right, the valve offered brief resistance and then undid at the first attempt.

    The picture shows the bought spanner to the right and my beefy home-brewed alternative to the left.

    |imgRemoved|

    Cheers
    GC
     
  2. Henry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Messages:
    2,941
    Onepot
    I have several of that type of home made spanner that work very well.
    However there is still a tendancy for it to cant over thus making it liable to twist off.
    My good friend Colin has a couple made of thick round bar i.e. more or less the same size as the inside of the pump tube.
    I had a very stubborn valve in a svea stove and I nearly resorted to unsoldering the pump tube, but one very small twist with Colin's spanner and bingo.

    Henry
     
  3. Ian

    Ian Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2004
    Messages:
    6,713
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    "However there is still a tendency for it to cant over thus making it liable to twist off. "

    I think it was Baggsy suggested building up the thickness of the tool with tape to avoid this problem.

    Also, check out:

    CCStrialink1.gif Pump Valve Tool[/URL]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 25, 2015
  4. Handi-Albert

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2004
    Messages:
    415
    Onepot You have done well I think. But it helps when you can use a milling machine, (I think this is what you used).
    A few points here may help>>>
    1) The 5mm slot has to be as tight as posable. Reason is the looser it fits on the valve head the less metal it will grip on. Think of a loose fitting spaneron a nut, it will only grip on the tips of the flats.
    2) the tool you buy , the shaft is made of about 1/4" rod. When turning this tool it will tend to go to one side of the pump tube at the handle end. This also is not gripping hard on the 2 flats of the valve. So to assist me here I take the handle out of the tool and fit a sleave on the shaft, I make this from brass, then replace the handle again. The sleve is to fit inside the tube but not fall to the bottom. This stops you from getting out of center. The sleves I make has 4 steps in it 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, and 18mm. this way it will fit all the pump tubes, and you are not removeing tape or adding to it for the bigger tubes.
    Remember when tightning up your valve don't over tighten it. It is easy to do. Remember you have a lead seal there even if it has been used it will seal easy.
     
  5. Onepot

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2004
    Messages:
    262
    Nope, I used a hacksaw to make the first cuts and this left a slot about 4mm wide. I then used a flat file to take out the slot until it fitted the valve perfectly. I'd love to use a milling machine, but the lathe I bought a year ago hasn't been touched yet because I'm always so busy, so adding a milling machine to the mix would be daft.

    Because I earn my living as a handyman I think it makes me able to 'knock up' little tools in no time, it's like someone said "practice makes the hands sure in the art".

    One result of using the tool is that the head of the valve is slightly deformed and the hole is now an oval rather than a circle. There's no damage to the rest of the valve body though. I removed a stubborn 96 pump valve earlier using the same tool and this too popped out after some swearing and again the twisting action has caused some deformation.

    Cheers
    GC
     
  6. Handi-Albert

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2004
    Messages:
    415
    I get that distortion on the realy tight valves as well. I have screwed off the 2 flats on the valve leaving the rest in the tube. :cry:
    I think I can stop this but the big question is how to make the tool the way I want it to be.
    I have a few thoughts on the matter and think I can do it. Next is to get the time.
    you done a good job with the tool. But you must keep it as tight as posable on the sides of the valve.