Let me begin with a flame shot from this 1981 MSR X-GK: This stove dates from October 1981, note that on the fuel line block it has MSR and 101 the 10 refers to October and the 1 is the year, in this case 1981. Right up until September 1981 MSR were making the “G” model and one can be seen here: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/189320 On my example you can see the date on the fuel line block here: The stove is painted in one of those ghastly late 70’s early 80’s colours, in the U.K. at that time, Ford Granada’s, Capri’s and Cortina’s had a colour called “metallic gold” - it is that colour. MSR went through a range of colours for their early XGK’s, Canary Yellow, Blue and this horrible gold – there may have been others. The MSR model 9 and its various transitions until the MSR XGK II had swing out pot supports. These are fine if one only wants to use the stove in the garden but for use whilst camping they are a frustrating irritation as they swing every which way. I replace these swing out pan supports on my early MSR stoves with the X-GK II panwire assembly (MSR part No 319432 ) as seen in this photo: You will note that this early X-GK, like its Model 9, XG and MF models has the four arm flame spreader. Later models including the latest model has three arm flame spreaders. The X-GK stoves were supplied with a square priming pad – (MSR part No 419223). This is counter intuitive when the stove “cup” is round! I use the round priming pad which is supplied with the current model XGK-EX (MSR part No 417212). The one I use: The “correct” priming pad: The pump that came was supplied with this stove was one of the yellow versions. You will note that the air tube is missing on this particular pump. This air tube often broke off and is not necessary for pump functionality. Prior to Spring 1974 these were absent from the pumps. The air tube was added by MSR as “air tubes which extend upwardly into the air space in the tank. If there is a leak in the pump check valve, only air will leak out instead of fuel.” In early 1975 due to customer feedback about leaky air check valves MSR found that these usually had dirt such as leather pump cup fragments in the seat. Their solution was to add a screen inside the pump barrel. The screen can be seen inside the pump barrel here: To change the O ring in the fuel tube bushing in the yellow pumps prior to my particular model one had to remove a cotter pin – see this photo of Sam’s: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/13876 Sam also posted the maintenance instructions here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/13875 On the particular model pump that I show the method of changing the fuel tube O ring has remained unchanged up to and including the current “Standard Fuel Pump”, also known as the Duraseal pump. The fuel tube bushing is simply turned counter clockwise revealing the O ring which is easily replaced. The current Standard Fuel Pump bushing and this particular 1981 yellow pump bushing can be seen side by side here: The Duraseal pump introduced in 2004, a drawing of which its component parts are shown can be found in this post in the Stove Reference Gallery here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/19569 is probably MSR’s best pump to date. It is the one I use on my old MSR stoves as I am not confident of the integrity of “old” yellow plastic pumps, some of which are 30 or more years old. Perhaps I should add something about the lack of or perceived lack of simmering on the MSR Model 9 & XG, XGK derivatives… back in 1974, just one year after the MSR model 9 was released MSR in their October 1974-Press Release said “The Mountain Safety Research Model 9 stove has often been criticized for lack of a good simmering capacity. Customer demand has convinced us to add a needle valve to our pump.” A few years later MSR was giving this advice in their instructions: The MSR stove has a needle control valve for flame adjustment. When low Flame is desired, the valve adjustment it delicate. To obtain the lowest flame requires low pressure in the tank. If the stove has been pumped to high pressure for maximum output melting snow or boiling water), close valve, blow out flame , turn whole stove upside down, open valve to release most of pressure, return to upright and light burner with a match. If done quickly, preheating it not required, If you use simmering often, carry a tin can lid to place on the burner under the pot to decrease and diffuse the heat. All of my XGK stoves are later than 1974 and hence all have needle valves. Simmering on the older stoves can be enhanced by using the latest Duraseal pump and by using a “simmer plate”. One of the easiest ways of making/obtaining a “simmer plate” is by using a 150mm x 150mm Bunsen burner gauze. That is what I use. They are easy and very cheap to obtain. Here is once source: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125mm-Wir...quipment_Lab_Equipment_ET&hash=item1e6769c9b3 I am using a Bunsen burner “simmer plate” with a 96 Special and silent burner in this post in the “Action Gallery” here: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/101902 The Bunsen burner gauze can also be used as a toaster as seen in this post in the “Action Gallery” here: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/125850 And when Presscall asked for details on the “toaster” my reply can be found here: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/125850 My use of a Bunsen burner gauze was an idea I originally read in Colin Fletcher’s The Complete Walker III published by Knopf in 1984. Here is the exact quote: Wire-and-asbestos wundergauze "Years ago a reader suggested that you could improve frying on almost any stove with one of those 6-inch-square wire gauzes with 4-inch diameter asbestos centers ( 1 ounce) that are used in chemistry labs to attenuate Bunsen-burner heat. It works like a charm. I carry mine rub¬ber-banded into a small, strong plastic envelope (to keep the inevitable soot closeted), bagged in with a metal windscreen (page 259) to hold it flat. Reputedly, the wundergauze can double as a toaster—and also as heat pad for cup or pot.” Stezim in his post in the “Action Gallery” here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/9208 It looks like he is using some kind of simmer plate with his old XGK but I might be wrong. Additionally, replacing the spreader plate with a silent burner cap also enhances the simmering. Of course I am talking in relative terms, if one really wants excellent simmering control then one should use a stove designed for exactly that such as the Primus Omnifuel, Optimus Nova or MSR Dragonfly. Alternatively, there are Classic soloutions…and, after all, this site is Classic Camp Stoves …. Here are some suggestions for those that think they need simmering capacity: Optimus 48 or Primus 54, both these have a lovely silent burner and by the simple manipulation of the air screw one can obtain very fine simmering. These appear on Ebay UK from time to time, and providing one is patient one can get a very good working stove – no need to pay a fortune for one of those shiny, over polished abortions that appear regularly. Another alternative is to get on Ebay a good working Optimus 00, Radius 21 or similar, and then (this is a tip I got from Bryan miller) get a rising tube from an Optimus 45/48 (get them from Mike at BASECAMP, part No 2011, and at the time of writing (November 2011) £6.50. Then put on a 2 pint silent burner, get one off Ebay (I got a brand new unused Hippiloto one for less than a tenner) or, again, get one from Basecamp: Optimus price list: http://www.base-camp.co.uk/Optimus.html Classic burners: http://www.base-camp.co.uk/burners.htm It is wise to remember that the X-GK was not designed for people who want delicate control for cooking – it was designed for mountaineers that require as rapid as possible boiling of water and melting snow for water – it does that admirably. I’ll finish with two flame shots, first with the original four armed plate: And with one of Gary’s splendid silent caps: Photos of this stove in use can be found in the Action Gallery here: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/202990 Cheers, Rob
Hi Rob as usual an outstanding documented thread you realy have a talent taking flame shots they all ways come out superb,and a great idea useing one of Garys silent caps as you say the MSRX-GK was intended for mountainerring so snow ice could be melted as quick as possible but one of Garys silent caps make the stove more universal allowing for slower cooking giving a more gentle flame
Excellent Rob. Looks like the one I use for my big trips. I've also gone with the later supports & added the later pump too. I still have the yellow one kicking around. Now I've read this I'll be digging out the stove & looking to find the date on it.
Fantastic post Rob. Very well done superb photos. Your discussion raises some excellent points on simmering. I would have never thought to turn the stove off, flip it over, depressurize, and then use low pressure. I'm glad there are those stoves that have simmer control. I can make my MF and GK simmer but it takes a little bit finagling to do that, but it is doable on some of these oldies, others may have more skill at this without depressurizing. sam
Hi Tim, Yes it is. As you can see it performs superbly on this stove and a joy to use as it is so quiet. Cheers, Rob
You guys keep up all this talk about X-GK's and I'm going to have to take a couple out this coming weekend for a short backpack trip. Rob, that pic of yours sure shows the stove getting hot. Duane
Hey HD, I love my XGK with the midi cap one heck of a cooker IMHO. Just need to complete an "adapteur" (French pronounced/spelled) for it Ron
Agreed. And thank you for shedding light on the 3 digit MSR year codes. Interesting that MSR added the air supply tube as sort of an afterthought to prevent potential fuel leaks in the event of an NRV failure. HJ