No 2 Modified Stove the Fife Fettle

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Surveyor, Aug 1, 2020 at 4:35 PM.

  1. Surveyor

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    Having read enough on this forum especially the threads from presscall and the links to others, i have started the fettle, my first of 6 No2 and No2 modified and 4 Number 12 stoves, first thing was to take apart from the box which I intend to sand blast for the first one, I have sourced labels, bit pricey but may be worth it, i have sent every thing out as a picture from presscall and the Fettle Box, first issue was to get a spanner big enough for removing pump mechanism, visit to the local DIY, all washers were bone dry and have assumed parts were made of aluminium seemed corroded and needed side plyers on some parts to strip. IMG_20200801_151534.jpg IMG_20200801_151535.jpg

    This part seems needing a good clean will do with a damp cloth

    IMG_20200801_160355.jpg

    So far got to this stage need to get the rubber washers out

    IMG_20200801_161142.jpg

    Reading one thread I need to soak in oil the pump washer the one i have is made of Viton, so do i need to soak it?
    IMG_20200801_163319.jpg
     

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  2. Lennart F Sweden

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    It is smart to lubricate Viton parts at assembly and if they are hard to fit due to stiffness, you could warm them a little to soften them.
     
  3. Surveyor

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    Many thanks was going to use olive oil as some one here recommended that on one thread which i cant find, just got all the springs and washers apart and spraying the tank. IMG_20200801_175033_1.jpg
     

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  4. Wim

    Wim Subscriber

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    Hi @Surveyor , your pump cup is NOT made of viton but is made of leather. The viton refers to the RUBBER seals & such. Best is to soak the pump cup in a mineral oil, vegetable oil gets rancid. Another good oil is neat's foot oil.

    Good luck with your restoration!
     
  5. Surveyor

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    Wim
    Thanks every day a school day and i dont mind, will look for mineral oil, may have some in a cupboard,
     
  6. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Surveyor

    3-in-1 oil, or sewing machine oil will do. In desperation, use the dipstick of you car engine.

    Tony
     
  7. Surveyor

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    Tony
    Thanks was heading back to the store as my bottle didn't have enough, wonder why i started LoL
     
  8. z1ulike

    z1ulike United States SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Sperm oil is best. Sperm oil has low viscosity and is very stable. It retains its viscosity in high temperatures better than most oils. It doesn't go rancid, gum up, dry out, or corrode metals. It also has a very low freezing point. It has been banned since the 1970's but occasionally some old stock comes up for sale on eBay. Expect to pay $250 for 8 ounces.

    P8011129.JPG

    The one pint tin of Sperm Oil was half full when I bought it. I bought another partial bottle that came from a 1910 pharmacy and topped it off. The tin has a really nice brass cap and is the stuff I use. The Brownell's is new old stock an has never been opened. I'll probably put it back on eBay in 5 years and see if I can't double my money.

    Ben
     
  9. Surveyor

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    Ben

    Seem to remember you saying that before, not sure of the availability of Sperm oil, got the 3 in 1 this morning giving it about a 30 minute soak then fit, after which burner to be refitted then the water test, as first one just hoping all goes well, i may need to get a washer for the burner unit as none in the pack.
     
  10. Surveyor

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    Found my first mistake unless you count forgetting oil and having to get "a bigger spanner", the leather washer for the pump does not have a perfect circle to fit, note to self next time check before putting it in oil.

    Please feel free to laugh

    Using this thread and as an aide memoire for me and notes for the first time Fettler on the No 2 modified and similar IMG_20200802_115751.jpg stoves
     
  11. Surveyor

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    IMG_20200802_134405.jpg Got the pump back together yes have pressure, next put back the bronze cylinder, spring seems to work, put that on now the problem, if finger tight when pumping the air will not escape, a slight loosening and the air come out via the threads.

    IMG_20200802_134444.jpg
    Any clues please? put it away till next weekend
     
  12. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi, is it possible that you have assembled the NVR internals incorrectly?

    The rubber seal should be facing the pump piston once assembled:

    upload_2020-8-2_18-25-41.jpeg



    From this thread:

    NRV repair.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  13. Surveyor

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    Yes that's the way I have it, I am wondering if wrong washer in head but if that's the case the springs wouldn't move
     
  14. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi @Surveyor there are slight differences between the NRVs from different Manufacturers and stove types.
    Here are a couple of photos I have just taken of the NRV from a Military No.12 stove, so similar to yours.

    487144A6-733E-42F5-836A-A31FF506B3DC.jpeg F22F0DB3-FDEB-4396-98B5-BEE87BB6E197.jpeg
    Can you confirm that your NRV is assembled like this one?

    Another tip: once assembled you can always test pump function using a glass of water and watching where the bubbles come from.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile
     
  15. Surveyor

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    Yes that's the way, I have put it away for now as away for a week and will look at it next weekend