Old camp stove found under shed

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Clyde Boyd, Oct 30, 2018.

  1. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    hey guys
    I am new to this forum but spent time on the Classic Pressure Lamps forum. I have fettled 5 different old Tilley lamps so I do have a general idea how these things work. I tried doing a little research on "Valor" but can't find a lot of information on them. They do resemble the "Primus" in many ways.
    At first I was just going to stick it in the cabin as a conservation piece, but since I have gotten all the old Tilleys working, I thought that maybe I could get this thing going again. I know it belonged to my father who has long passed.
    Guess what I need to know is as much info as I can get on the (1) make and model of the stove. (2) An exploded view of the lamp with parts list. (3) Where to buy parts.
    I used the Base Camp and Classic Pressure Lamps to purchase parts for the Tilleys.
    Anyway attached are some pics of the old thing, any and all information would be really appreciated. I really would like to get this old thing roaring again.
    Many Thanks
    Clyde
    IMG_0705.JPG IMG_0706.JPG IMG_0707.JPG IMG_0708.JPG IMG_0709.JPG IMG_0711.JPG IMG_0712.JPG IMG_0713.JPG IMG_0714.jpg
     
  2. JP2

    JP2 Subscriber

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    Hi and welcome

    First thing first, Wash the stove and you will discovered the model number on the tank. Then we will see much more how thing goes and where to start. Parts are available. This stoce has a silence burner ,not a roaster. Nice stove
    Welcome again
     
  3. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks JP2. I am at sea now and will be for the next two weeks. I will gently clean it up when i get back in town. I was not aware of any markings on it when I found it. Actually I wasn't really sure what I had found. I did do a little searching tonight on the internet and did see a lot of different types of these old stoves. I have one picture that I zoomed in on and what I first mistook for scratches I now see is some sort of emblem and some letters. I will update you guys once i give it a bath now that I know what to look for. Again, thanks for the reply.
    Clyde
     
  4. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi @Clyde Boyd .

    You have a Valor stove. These are British-made and of good quality. Valor were Manufacturers of paraffin/kerosene heaters and classic brass stoves.

    Yours is likely a Model 55, a two pint tank capacity, silent burner stove from the 1940/50s perhaps.

    https://classiccampstoves.com/forums/valor.301/

    We don’t appear to have a parts diagram for this stove, but the parts are interchangeable with the majority of Swedish and British stoves from this time period.

    Fettlebox, see advert on RHS of this page, can provide replacement seals, washers and some parts:

    https://fettlebox.co.uk/kit-e-optimus/primus-etc-2-pint-1-5-etc.html

    You can source a new burner from ebay or similar. For example:

    https://fettlebox.co.uk/standard-roarer-burner.html

    If you want to keep the Valor character of the stove, and would consider fitting a new old stock (NOS) Valor roarer burner send me a personal message.

    There is a hill of information on the CCS site on stoves and their operation/ restoration so take time to study the Site and the posts.

    This link should get you started:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/stove-restoration-parts-1-to-4.3963/

    If you have any further queries, just ask.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2018
  5. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  6. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks Kerophile
    As I mentioned to JPE, I will be away from the stove for the next couple of weeks, but when I get back,I am going to clean the stove to recover any printing on it and see what parts I can actually use. Since I know it belonged to my deceased father, I would like to keep as many of the original parts as I can and have it work properly as well.. Getting the proper replacement legs appears to be the only real problem. Thanks again for all the information and guidance.
    Clyde
     
  7. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @kerophile, would you have any idea what size pot holder this stove would take. I have seen 6-1/2" and 8-1/4". Would it be better to wait until I have the stove cleaned up a bit to where I can see the model number before I start to gather parts?
     
  8. JP2

    JP2 Subscriber

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    Hi
    After the stove will be clean inside and outside, you will be able to see if it is a good idea to fix it. For now to get familiar with your stove, you should learn how the pump and the NRV (no return valve) work. NVR can be stubborn sometime and you need a tool to get access too but that tool can be made by yourself and I think you have everything you need on the boat to make one. By doing that you will be able to go further if the stove let you go in easily. Lolo. On the forum, you have all informations needed to do it and we are here to help. Have Fun
     
  9. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi @Clyde Boyd I think you will need the larger of the two pan-rings that you mention.

    It is likely the best approach with the legs is to find a donor stove, one with a stress-cracked tank perhaps.

    Here is a link to a restoration which involved leg transplants:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/fettling-hovik-primus.11242/#post-107256

    If you start your restoration of the stove body first, it will give you some idea of how much work needs to be done, and if all goes well you can move tomthe stove legs later.

    Here are two old posts on re-attaching legs to classic stoves:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/re-soldering-stove-legs.4525/

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/fettling-a-primus-no-4-from-1928.11425/#post-108996


    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2018
  10. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @JP2
    I have read many post on the stubborn NRV. On the Tilley lamps they are a part of the pump assembly and easy to access. I have replaced the pips on a lot of those. It appears that the NRV on the stoves are at the bottom of the pump tube which is integrated into the stove body, I could see how this could create a problem on a a 70 year old lamp. Am I correct in saying that you need some sort of round stock with a 5mm slot cut in the bottom and some sort of "T" handle at the top. How long would this tool need to be? I would like to get this made up before I head to the beach.

    @kerophile
    Thanks on the pan-ring. just checking availability on parts and getting familiar with the stove and how it works. All the filler cap, air release valve and the pump come off freely. The silent burner I can get no problem. I would like to keep as much as possible of the old stove, but it looks like the ring around the base of by burner where the holes are at is broken, so it looks like I will need to replace it.
    During my time home this time i will clean the stove inside and out. Identify model, try to remove NRV. Remove burner. I can tape the tank and sandblast the remaining 2 legs and see what material is left after the rust is gone and as a last resort I can form leg from a piece of round stock.
    If I get a chance overnight I will review your links on leg replacement. Thanks for all the information and help.
    Thanks
    Clyde
     
  11. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @kerophile
    I just read both the post mentioned above. That was beautiful work you did on that old Norwegian stove.
    The write up on the leg replacement was very informative and aligns with what I have learned and experienced in the pass. The idea with the hose clamps, or jubilee clips, (we refer to them as both here in Canada) seems to me would work wonderfully to put tension on the legs both above and below the tank. Maybe if a guy had the pan-ring to test fit positioning before final soldering would be a great help in insuring proper fit.
    All great stuff guys, thanks
    C
     
  12. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  13. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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  14. Rangie

    Rangie Subscriber

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    Hi Clyde, all great advice from Kerophile / JP2 above :thumbup:

    Regarding the burner, gently straighten out the "skirt" around the one you have, the outer cap may well seal enough for a test!

    Change the seals throughout, remove the NRV and get it operational, rinse the tank to ensure it is clean and clean the jet in the burner (you may have to remove it to flush any rubbish in the burner assembly itself).

    Doing that and with a fresh pair of No.5 burner caps, you should be able to fire it for a play ;) :content:

    Alec.
     
  15. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @Rangie, thanks for the response. I am still offshore, suppose to be heading in on Monday. i have a few days at home before I head to the cabin so I will fabricate a removal tool for the NRV, that appears to be the biggest unknown. If i can get that out, then I will order up the seal and the two burner caps and maybe even a new burner, just in case I cannot get the original to work. As stated before, i would like to use ad many of the original parts as I can. Also I will clean it enough to make visible any markings on it. You guys have been great and I appreciate all the advise. I think I am a wee bit excited to get at this old relic.
    Regards
    C
     
  16. JP2

    JP2 Subscriber

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    Nice
    This is pictures from the side to give you some ideas about what you can used to make a tool for the NVR. Also if you have someone at home that can add some penetration oil under the pump and leave the stove on the side for the weekend before you arrived, it may help to have the job done.
    NOW the funny part, more I check your stove, more I think you shouldn't wash it even if you may have too. It actually show a nice story and Yes, I know, it is a dilemma. Lololo
    Screenshot_20181109-093504.png Screenshot_20181109-093534.png
    Have a good day
     
  17. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @JP2 I know what you mean about cleaning. I have been giving that a lot of thought myself. First I thought how beautiful it would look all polished up with decal and all, but that will just be another stove. Now I am thinking, just take the heavy scale off it to the point i can see the printing but keep some of the aged patina on it. I will need to clean it in the area of the leg if I am going to replace. I will have to see. Definitely need to keep the history in the appearance. I am 59 years old and I can remember seeing it laying around in the old shed and it seems to me it always looked like it does now.
    Could you tell me the size of the stock you used and the width of the slot.
    Thanks for all the help.
    C
     
  18. JP2

    JP2 Subscriber

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    Yes, I forgot about the legs, uummmmm you may have to now. If by stock you mean NVR. Here we go on a new one at home.
    IMG_20181111_131403.jpg IMG_20181111_131501.jpg
     
  19. Clyde Boyd

    Clyde Boyd United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @JP2. By stock, I meant the round stock you made the tool from. I think the flat on the NRV is around 4 mm.
    Hate to sound stupid, not quite sure how to read the calipers. I always use digital ones. lol
     
  20. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Colin Geer

    5.2mm and 6.?mm (probably around 6.8 but you can’t tell the decimal point from the image).

    The first number is the one on the fixed scale before the “0” on the sliding scale; the second number is where the sliding scale aligns with the fixed scale:

    http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/

    Cheers

    Tony