Good afternoon, I have an Optimus 00 stove that has been leaking kero fumes from the connection between the burner and the tank. I bought the kit B from fettlebox and replaced everything on the burner and tightened everything down snug. When I tried my stove this morning for coffee I noticed that there was still liquid kero and kero vapor escaping the middle of the tank. These fumes ignited and gave me quite a scare. I further tightened down the burner, but I am not able to stop the leak. I’m not sure what else can be done. Maybe there is a hairline fracture at the top of the tank or on the burner. if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. Thank you, W
Hi @WilliamH the burner on an Opimus No.00 is connected to the tank via a riser tube. This riser tube screws onto the top of the tank and there is a lead washer, part # 2090: Optimus 00 Camper exploded view You will have received such a washer in the kit B that you received from Fettle Box. Did you install it correctly? If not this might explain a leak between the top of the tank and the riser tube. There is another potential leak point where two Heat Resistant washers are used on the connection between the burner and the riser tube, parts # 2220. There should be one of these washers on either side of the spirit-cup. They should not be over-tightened as they can “cam out” and be torn/ leak. Check out these possibilities and tell us what you find. Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi @kerophile, Thank you for your response. I have the 2 heat resistant washers installed and the lead washer. The kit came with 2 lead washers and I used the thinner one as the threads would not connect using the thicker one. Maybe I used the wrong one? thoughts?
Hi @WilliamH One of the lead washers is for using with the NRV at the bottom of the pump tube, the other is for the joint between the tank and riser tube. This latter washer sits in a shallow recess at the base of the female connector on the riser tube. Generally the old, damaged lead washer is removed with a pick or similar, and the seating cleaned up to accept the new lead washer. Once the new washer is seated the riser tube should screw down on the male tank fitting and provide a leak-free seal. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN or you will squeeze the lead out of the joint! For transit the burner assembly is disconnected from the tank and the reserve cap seals the tank to prevent leaks. When you re-assemble the stove for use, the lead washer should allow the re-sealing of the joint for many many uses. Few other washer materials would satisfy this servce requirement. Best Regards, Kerophile.
@WilliamH I had the same problem with burner washers not seating well. I use PTFE tape (plumbers/gas fitters tape) on the threads with the washers. Always worked for me with no ill effects despite the heat.
@Plantpot and @kerophile, Thanks for the help guys. I will try the tape as well. here is a pic of the bottom of the riser tube with the lead washer installed. How does it look?
Hi, it looks like you might have a washer on top of a washer! Did you remove what was there before installing the new lead washer? If not you should do that now. Best Regards, Kerophile.
The old washer was so thin I didn’t think it would matter, but maybe that’s the issue. I hope I can still use the new washer when I have them removed. Thanks kerophile.
@kerophile, i successfully removed the new and old washers. The old washer was steel not lead. No wonder it wouldn’t seal. With the kit came a thick and a thin lead washer. Which washer is for the burner tube? Now that I look at the amount of space in the tube, the thicker one would fit for sure. Thank you again for all your time in helping me. W
The thin one should be for the non-return valve (NRV) in the pump tube; the thicker one for the riser tube. Cheers Tony
Ok, so after installing the correct lead washer and carefully watching for leaks with a few adjustments, the stove is leak free. Thanks everyone for the help. Much appreciated! There is only one more issue: After 10-15 pumps, the pump rod pushes out about 1-1.5 inches. Is this normal? There is no kero in the pump shaft, so I don’t think it’s an issue with the NRV pip. Maybe the NRV spring? I have already replaced the NRV and leather cup a while ago. Regards, W
That happens on some stoves. If there’s no loss of pressure and no kerosene, it is most likely back pressure entirely within the pump tube. Try holding the pump down and letting the air slowly escape past the pump cup. Cheers Tony