This #11 was in pretty good shape except the latch was broken off at the curve. Snwcmpr, Ken helped me out with some pics so I could create a new one. Removing the weld off the tag end of the remaining latch would have damaged some of the original paint so I opted to join a newly made latch to the old half. The latch and hardware are stainless and I've decided to keep them unpainted. Works great and I doubt it will ever break off. I replaced all the seals which were cork and probably still functional but I'd rather be safe. The NRV came out surprisingly easy with one of Stu's wrenches . The leather was in really good shape but it had shrunk and even after a week long soak in oil never fit with compression so I replaced it with one from Sefa . I like the build quality of this stove. Much heavier gauge sheet metal case and the brass tank is probably twice as thick as the 111. A nice example of a transitional stove between the Campingo and the 111. Cheers, Jerry
Hi Jerry Stove latch looks like it works great. Your 11 looks to be in excellent working order, nice job!! Ren
Pretty nice shape except the latch. Great flame, new stoves don't look that nice. I'm amazed at some of the old stoves at how well the paint has held up. Duane
Hi Jerry, that is a really classy stove after your restoration. You were lucky to still have a piece of the catch attached to the case, and you made a great repair. If the catch breaks at the spot-weld, which seems to be the common failure mode, you need to attach the replacement catch assembly directly to the case, and this post illustrates one option: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-111t-rebuild.27004/ Best Regards, Kerophile.
Thanks guys for the comments. Yep Ken, I can see why you like these stoves. Nice work around to spot welding Kerophile, I'll keep that in mind. Cheers, Jerry
I have an 11 I got from a member, in a northern state, that needs a spot weld on the left tank mount to the case 'flap'. I do know a welder... Hmmm, should go there.