Optimus 8 early model original paint

Discussion in 'Optimus No:8 (version prior to the 8R)' started by Boston Terrior man, Jun 9, 2011.

  1. Boston Terrior man

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    Here is my early Optimus 8. I dont know much about this stove just what i read from the previous posts. If anybody knows details about this stove i would love to hear from you as i've really come to love these older clam style stoves. Bryan's post helped me date it to early to mid 1930's but beyond that most info i found is for the 8R with rounded case sides.

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    It has three optimus poker sticks made of metal but i dont see a pump so i dont know how it works.

    BTM
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  2. Knight84

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    Nice stove!!!
    I love the nickel plate tanks.

    These date from 1931 to 1947. That said I don't think the early 30's is right as there was a earlier model of the 8. Late 30's seems to fit better.

    There is no pump like seen on the later 8r's. These are self generating pressure stoves. The Svea 123 is another stove like this. They need to be primed. That priming creates heat and vaporizes fuel and builds pressure inside the tank which forces fuel out the jet. Simple eh. Well fuel will try to leave other places like the fuel cap, safely release, control valve, burner connection. They burn only Coleman fuel. Caution should always be taken when using a Coleman fueled stove.

    The metal bits are called prickers and are used to clear the jet of carbon.

    Cheers,
    Jeff
     
  3. nzmike

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    Good catch! I've never seen a 'square side' tin like that, nice one! They are dead easy to run, given the tidy state of it, I bet a new fuel cap seal will have it blasting away nicely. The only other thing that may or may not give you gyp could be a cooked fuel wick. Petrol stoves use a wick to sop up fuel, running them right out 'can' char the wick where it enters the fuel pipe, resulting in a lack of power or none at all. Easily replaced, even more easily avoided, just dont run it till it stops. The fuel tank needs a good sized air space at the top, dont fill past a skinny 2/3's until you get a feel for it.

    8r's have a deserved following, tough little buggers. If you develop a liking for it, they can be very successfully pimped out, Berniedawg posted a benchmark example a couple of months back.
     
  4. RonPH

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    Nice and rare :thumbup: What is that shiny on the top of the flame spreader?

    Ron
     
  5. Murph

    Murph United States Subscriber

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    Beautiful!!! :clap:

    Some chaps have commented that the prime cup isn't large enough to get a decent warm-up, that was changed on the 8R.

    IIRC, someone commented that the pump-type caps wouldn't clear the case when it was closed.

    Still, a near flawless example of the old Optimus 8!

    Murph
     
  6. Boston Terrior man

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    Hi Knight84
    How is the Niagara area? I drift the Niagara river in my boat for Trout launching at Queenston just before winter. Beautiful area, I actually live in Port Credit so we have the Credit River Salmon run in late August/September and July I do a charter from Port Darlington with a group of friends.

    Do you have any pictures or can you direct me to early 1930’s number 8? I just assumed the cap was how to tell but after reading further into Bryans post I see they changed to the popped cap sometime in the late 30’s. The pictures of the other 8’s on here look just like my but some have the raised cap so I’m not sure how to tell the difference other than the cap.

    Hi nzmike,
    It uses a wick? I never even thought to look under the fuel cap, I remember turning it over to see if any fuel poured out but it was dry. I’ll have to look at it tonight when I get home. I just assumed the cap needs a pump attachment that was missing as when I look on ebay I can see the 8R have this small pump. This wick is suppose to run from the tank to the generator or right to the burner?

    Hi RonPH
    The spot is some sort of tarnish or something on the burner cover, I haven’t tried to clean it off as it feels like its pitted right into the metal. Not sure if I can do anything with it other than try to replace this cover as it’s removable. The hard part is finding anything for this stove as when I check ebay I don’t see this one come up. I have three of the poker rods in the case, these have a little pin at the end but on the side like the generator pin on Coleman Lanterns.

    I just thought about it and I would remove the burner cover and poke into the generator opening end, that’s why the pin is it’s located sideways
    :-k
     
  7. BernieDawg Banned

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    Heya BTM
    Yours looks like mine:
    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/16220/

    Yours looks in great condition and has excellent paint. As such, you have a rare and valuable old stove there. Please treat it carefully. I agree with Jeff that it's likely late thirties. If you check the link above I have a picture of the wick from mine. All these 8 series stoves are self-pressurizing, no pump needed. The "poker rods" are what we here at CCS refer to as "cleaning needles" or "prickers". The "pin" on the end is a "pricker wire". The "generator opening end" is known as a "jet" or a "nipple". It is a threaded bit of brass that screws into the burner. The "burner cover" is called a "flame plate". I'd advise leaving it as is. It's very unlikely you will find a proper replacement for this 75+ year old stove and it's just fine the way it is.

    The mark under the top of the case is where a clip was spot welded to hold the prickers. Most all of these early 8's are missing the clip.

    The seals (cap seal and the cap safety release pip) are probably hard and need to be replaced should you decide to fire the stove.

    Cheers,
    Gary
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015
  8. Boston Terrior man

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    Thanks Gary for stove lingo 101 lesson, now i can at least sound like a pro :lol: . i have a passion for these old stoves but as you can tell my knowledge is somewhat limited… but growing thanks to this forum and the knowledge you guys pass on. This thing was produced over 40 years before i was born :roll:

    I'll leave the flame plate alone as no need to spend extra money for something that’s still functional. Assuming my wick is gone and looks like the one you have in your post where can I get a replacement? Is Alexander on this forum? Also it appears I need to be careful when removing the fuel tube, I have a pretty good garage full of tools and don’t force anything lose as it would be a shame to damage this unit. We all collectively keep the flame burning for many years to come.

    BTM
     
  9. Wim

    Wim Subscriber

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    Hi BTM,
    looking at the condition of your stove, there is little doubt its wick will still be in perfect condition. In fact, these wicks are mainly dammaged when a careless owner lets the tank (or fount) burn dry. Make sure the seals in the cap and safety release valve are in good condition (best is to simply replace them), and you're good for a few decades ;) .

    Best regards,

    Wim
     
  10. BernieDawg Banned

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    No worries at all, BTM. Happy to help with the stovie lexicon.

    I agree with Wim. Your wick could well be in good shape. A flashlight and some peering into the tank should let you know. Should it be in bad shape, there are some threads here at CCS about replacing the wick with cotton mop stands and some brass or stainless wire.

    I located a picture of the cap from mine disassembled during the original fettle. The blurry item in the foreground is where the original cork pip is located. You'll likely want to replace the pip with a viton one so that the safety release is sealing and operating correctly once again. The pips are available from "spiritburner" (Ross), our wonderful site owner/operator. He'll have the cap gasket for your stove, too.

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    Cheers,
    Gary
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  11. Knight84

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    Sorry I missed your post BTM

    Niagara is great. Lots to do down here. I was just on the Niagara river. That water is still cold but the fish are biting.

    The earlier 8's had a different design to the feed tube.

    The early 8 is on the left and the later 8 is on the right below. The heat shield and key are different as well.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2015