Peak 1 (550B749) with little yellow flame

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by Cookie, May 16, 2019.

  1. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    I wanted a 550B so bad that I could taste it for awhile now but didn't want to pull the trigger and order one at the prices that I had seen. Lady luck smiled on me today and I now have five new ones that are dated 10/95. Like others have stated it has the yellow flames and soot with kero issue that I'll try to remedy with some amish mix. My problem is that with both CF and kero I am having a small one inch flame kick out from where the jet is inserted. Is it in too far or not enough. I put it in as far as I could so I assume too far. I have tried different depths to no avail. Is this a typical issue ? The pics are of the stove burning CF with a slight amount of kero left in the tank (shook the bejesus out of it upside down to empty every last drop possible lol). Pic #2 is at full throttle and pic #3 is at simmer.
    Thanks

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  2. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    I figured out the issue. I had read that there were some quality control issues with the generators and this one is no different. The bend in the tube is not enough to allow full insertion into the chamber. I forced it in there and it works a lot better but shows signs of yellow flames after a few minutes. This may be due to the left over kero still in the tank. Tomorrow if I get a chance I will try to persuade that bend to comply a little better. What I originally thought was completely in was in actually only half way in. from the factory. Lastly, I notice that the tank gets rather warm compared to my other pressure stoves (hotter than a 123R). Is that normal for this design ?
     
  3. Tron

    Tron Subscriber

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    This was my only camp stove for many years, I must have operated it for several hundred hours, and in my experience it does get hot. The plastic control knob often melts a little after using it with large pots, and the tank feels hot. Not hotter than a SVEA though, in my experience, but I have never actually measured the temperatures.

    The stove in you picture is not burning the way it should and that is usually a generator problem with the 550B. But I would check if the burner head is aligned properly to the disk underneath, with the two large holes for air. Also check if the generator tip ("jet") is screwed in properly, I have bought new generators that had loose tips. Try another generator maybe? I mean, if you have five of them.... Another thing is pressure, these stoves love pressure, are you pumping it enough?

    In this thread

    Sealing non-structural vapor leak

    You can see a picture of my burner with the generator inserted the far enough in the burner head for the stove to obtain a perfect burn.

    Mine loves kero, it is actually the only kero burner I have ever considered using for backpacking, but it needs preheating, I tip the stove sligthly (using the leveling ring for the feet) so I can light a nice pool of meths right under the generator.

    Kind regards
    Tron
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2019
  4. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    @Tron It's funny that you mention tipping the stove to pre-heat it. I also did that. The jet on this one was loose from the factory as you mentioned. Insofar as pressure goes I have it maxed out when I first start because I had considered the possibility of not having enough. I haven't tried the other generators simply because I haven't made up my mind if I was gonna keep the additional stoves as of yet. I wanted to try one to see if I liked this style of stove. I had specifically looked for this stove originally because of the kero option since that is my preferred fuel. Also, thanks for the link. I had searched the internet and this forum but did not run across it. It has a more appropriately named title than mine lol. I have gotten much better performance from a solid pre-heat also.

    Inserting the generator further has allowed it to go from this (first pic-blue flame not visible due to flash ) to this (second pic). The next issue is the fact that it has absolutely no simmer capability and the CF goes to simply flames when I lower it below medium flame.

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  5. BradB

    BradB United States Subscriber

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    Hmmmm. Your stove should simmer. These are known to have an excellent simmer and both of mine do. However, I run mine on CF. Check the old threads, there are a couple that describe the 6 O rings that this model uses. They are very easy to work on and a broken one can cause your issue. The regulating valve has two rings on it and one of them is a very soft blue one that often breaks. Brad
     
  6. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    For reference I pulled the other four out and looked at the seating depth of the generator. It seems that each one is seated to a different depth by a good margin. I'm not complaining about the 550b it's just that I imagined with it being new that it was going to be a fill and go situation. It of course has not been that way lol. Since I got all five new with tags, bags, etc (no square cans or fuel bottle) for the price of one I'm not complaining at all :content:. He was gonna throw in a marine kero stove for $20 but I saw that sticker already on it. I might go back by today and get it cheaper lol since I have to work nearby. I've still got my eye on a Coleman 345 that looks complete here locally but the price is rather steep.
     
  7. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    @Brad Thanks for the info. I have also noticed that two of the five stoves (one is the unit that I lit) have control knobs that are difficult to turn. I wonder if that is an indication of a bad o-ring.
     
  8. Tron

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    You can easily pull the valve. This is not the schraeder/plastic hell of the 400B/442, its all solid brass with a variety of O rings, easily rebuildable. You don't even need any sealant. When the stove does not simmer it suggests problems with the valve to me, when my generators have gone south its been evident by pulsing and smelly fumes at full power.

    Does the stove keep pressure? A dunk test could be usefull. though I still run mine with the original 1994 tank lid seal.

    A control knob that is hard to turn might just be a slightly misaligned valve assembly, try and see if the knob rubs on the tank, if it does just take a wrench to the valve and turn it a hair in the opposite direction of where the knob rubs.

    Kind regards
    Tron
     
  9. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    Great thread.
    I want one, but do not need one.

    A thought. The NEW stove is still almost 25 years old. So the seals and o-rings will be 25+ years old.
     
  10. Tron

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    Off course you do. :mrgreen: Its a great little stove, and a great example of what kind of maker Coleman used to be.

    Kind regards
    Tron
     
  11. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    Funny guy. Feeding the stove pox!! :)
     
  12. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    @Tron the valve has been sticky since the beginning. It was loose when I first checked it so I re-installed it and made sure that it didn't rub. Also, the stove keeps pressure fine. I maxed it out last night and I'm about to go fire her up so I'll double check to see if it will take a pump just to make sure. If it takes a single pump she gets dunked.

    @snwcmpr good point about the age of the seals
     
  13. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    @Tron "Hi . My name is Cookie and I'm a stovie." Everyone replies "Hi Cookie" in a standard AA meeting fashion. "I thought that I knew how to install a valve so that the knob wouldn't hit the body of the stove and not turn easily but apparently I was wrong. In my defense it may have been the stove pox that had a grip on me (first stage of denial)." :whistle:

    I bent the generator using a 3/8" boxed end wrench. The generator now fits perfectly inside and only a small tiny 1/8" blue flame exits the chamber where it enters. I can live with that. She started perfectly then went all yellow on me and I discovered that I had a leak at the generator nut after re-installing it. Once she cools down we'll go again.
     
  14. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    Ok so I have learned that the generator is the key issue with this stove. Having the proper bend and depth of insertion is critical on it's performance. Also, any excessive pressure from the pot supports will cause the stove to leak at the generator nut once enough fuel has entered the generator tube and created back pressure. The stove is now running with a beautiful blue flame and simmer control at least exists once the generator tube has ample heat. It is however not a silent burner cap or canister style stove simmer....yet

    Now to the next issue...The valve is set where it is supposed to be to allow free turning of the knob however it could easily be turned by hand another quarter turn. When I re-installed the valve earlier I had put some copper anti-seize compound on the threads. It does not leak when cold but after five minutes of full power the stove font has increased temperature to "warm" and I am now seeing bubbles coming from the font at the threaded area so I shut it down. Should I replace the anti-seize compound with some pipe dope or something else ?

    Lastly, am I posting this type of "review" in the wrong forum ? I wasn't sure if it needed to be in the fettle forum. Initially I simply had one issue to ask about lol.
     
  15. Tron

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    Hi Cookie! :mrgreen:
    So you are getting there, one step at the time. I would have put on some plumbers tape, the thin teflon tape, just enough to get a seal and a tight fit in the position where the knob turns freely.

    Are you running kero? If so, I think maybe my experience from running kero in my stove here in Norway is less relevant, because we are probably not running the same fuel. What I use is called "parafin" and is supposed to be kerosene, but it does not smell like the kerosene we used to pump at the gas station and every other house used for heating. I'm not sure you can get "real" kerosene here anymore, unless you find some jet fuel. However, with the stuff I use the stove simmer very well, so I think it should be possible to make the stove simmer.

    Kind regards
    Tron
     
  16. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    I swapped out the copper anti-seize compound for some Loctite brand high temperature (400°F) thread sealant. From what I have read it is basically the liquid form of the white thread tape. I do run kero in my stoves and have a selection of 100°F Kleanstrip (smells like kero), 124°F Sunnyside (mild smell), and 150°F KleanHeat (no smell) variants along with red dyed 1k (I don't use). I am currently working on a large supply of jet fuel from our local privately owned air strip.
     
  17. snwcmpr

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    I would think that that area would get hotter than 400°.
     
  18. Ed Winskill

    Ed Winskill United States Subscriber

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    Tron, it is certainly kero, but the modern stuff has greater purity and much less smell
    than in former times.

    In 2001 when I found CCS and bought my first kerosene stove since my Optimus 45 of early youth in the early '60s, I bought kero from the local hardware stove and fired it up. It had a very subtle kerosene smell; it reminded me immediately of the old smell (odors being very evocative), but it was much more subtle than long before.

    Usually now I only catch the scent if I let the hot vapor loose after priming for a second before I light it off. Other than that, you can hardly smell it at all, alas.
     
  19. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    @snwcmpr I have only performed two short burns but it seems to hold the clocking position well when adjusting the generator nut due to leakage and there has been no vapor or gas release yet. I have purposefully not performed an extended test until it burned properly without any leaks just in case.
     
  20. Cookie

    Cookie United States Subscriber

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    I tried a test meal today and all went well until the thirteen minute mark. The stove was on medium-low setting and well heated. It started to develop a flickering flame at the generator nut. At eleven minutes or so I recorded the generator nut temperature at about 147-150°F. At the thirteen minute mark I had just noticed that the generator nut temperature had increased to 170°F and poof out comes a flame. I shut it down and will tighten that nut ever so slightly once it all cools down. It seems like every time that I light this stove I get a generator related leak somewhere.