Punker single burner marine/caravan stove

Discussion in 'Punker' started by Marc, Nov 4, 2019.

  1. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    Hello stovie friends.

    For your inspection today is a single burner Punker alcohol stove.

    As received. I will need to source a front rail or find a length of stainless steel to bend up. For my use, neither in a sailboat nor caravan, this will make no functional difference.
    20190804_194442.jpg

    Clever dipper in the fuel cap, with the push valve in the bottom to dispense priming fuel into the trough to the priming pan. Trough is visible to the right of the control knob in the above photo.
    20190804_194820.jpg

    View of the working buts from below: 20190804_194836.jpg

    That's enough oohs and ahhs, let's get her apart. Rear plug came off easy enough. There's another issue evident in this photo, can you spot it?
    20190804_195211.jpg

    The "filter" brush/pressure damper, right full of schmoo and rust. That won't do! 20190804_195202.jpg
    After many attempts, having the central wire of shaft of the brush crumble to bits with each grab, I was eventually able to get a part that was solid enough to remove the entire brush. 20190804_195322.jpg

    What to do? Clean the rusty stuff out of the tube, then off to our local Hazard Fraught tool store for nothing more than the finest in Chinesium cleaning brushes. Two lengths of brushes filled the tube and should do the trick? Fingers crossed.
    20190810_170940.jpg 20190810_171029.jpg

    Cap back in place, sealed with an O ring. That makes two I've used out of my 50,000,000 pc assortment, @Simes .
    20190810_171259.jpg

    Reassembled and fueled, there was a leak out the control valve stem as well. Tightening the packing nut a wee bit didn't help any, a couple lengths of graphite yarn and then tightening the packing nut did help. I didn't get any photos, it's a three hand job as it is and I assume you've all seen/done that particular operation plenty of times.

    Onward man, how's she fire? Well, about that issue foreshadowed earlier, severe underburn due to o a mission piece on the bottom of the burner: 20190811_111413.jpg
    Saga to be continued, don't touch that dial..........
     
  2. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    Esteemed master fettler John had encountered a similar issue in the past, and solved it by fabricating his own funnel out of a fuel cap. I attempted something similar using the fuel caps I had on hand - Coleman.

    20190811_110903.jpg 20190811_110848.jpg

    Unsuccessful, still severe underburn.

    Reaching out to @presscall , John, asking what he would charge me to fabricate said replacement, he instead offered to build the replacement and send it to me, free of charge! Thank you John, incredible generosity!

    My poor substitute low, John's proper replacement right:
    20191006_153318.jpg

    In place. This was a fiddly bit, as you can't get the funnel in with the jet in place, but once the funnel's in place, you can't get the jet in! I eventually managed. 20191006_153750.jpg 20191006_154015.jpg

    How's she do now?

    I need to try a double preheat, as it seems to underburn a bit until properly good and warm, then it pops and burns splendidly. Note that the lowish flame to the left is by design, there is a jet of flame meant to preheat incoming fuel.
    20191006_154304.jpg

    Percolator on forthwith: 20191006_160617.jpg 20191006_161559.jpg 20191006_161901.jpg
    Success. I dedicate this wonderful cup of coffee to John. Thank you sir for all your help. 20191006_161920.jpg
    But wait, there's more......
     
  3. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    After a few more burnings, things started going nuclear.

    When the stove's been running a bit, it starts pulsing with VERY intense flames, which turn green!

    20191006_154259.jpg

    John's been kind enough to consult with me via PM about this, for which I'm very grateful. In an effort to use time more wisely, I've posted the whole lot here, both so John can see the photos he's requested and also so other members can get their twopence in as well.

    Thank you again to John for your generosity and expertise, and thank you to the membership at large for your input.

    Anyone have any ideas about what's going on?
     
  4. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    Is is your brush system possibly?
     
  5. Simes

    Simes Subscriber

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    That's my suspicion as well Ken, and John may possibly agree.

    It'll run fine initially but after warming up enough the alcohol vaporisation runs away without the damping effect the wick gives.

    John has a thread somewhere that shows a good wick making technique which I used for my 38 fettle. I've not searched for the relevant posts.
     
  6. cottage hill bill

    cottage hill bill Subscriber

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    I'm with Ken, the green is coming from the brass brushes. Go back to the same source and get some stainless brushes and see if the color goes away.
     
  7. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    I see the ‘brush’ section of one of the replacement brushes is quite short, so to create ‘two lengths’ you cut sections off the ‘handle’ part of each? That leaves the length furthest from the end cap inaccessible now?

    The post where I featured construction of a wick/strainer was HERE and something on those lines would serve in the Punker and may resolve the surging issue. I’m undecided without experiment whether a brush/strainer/wick that lets fuel pass too easily might create the surging, or indeed whether one that doesn’t let fuel pass easily enough.

    The two Punker stoves I have (enamel body ‘domestic’ and stainless ‘marine’) have very different ‘wick’ types. On the left in this photo is the wire brush pattern from the marine stove and on the right is the bundle of 32 brass rods used in the domestic stove ...

    C0E7CE1F-596C-4E4C-A028-7A8F1E0F7F87.jpeg


    ... which are inserted in the vapouriser tube in this way

    283E4383-31FE-4174-89F3-B6E401E1607D.jpeg
     
  8. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    Did @hikerduane use a gun cleaning brush? How did that work long term?
     
  9. Simes

    Simes Subscriber

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    John, do you think carbon fibre mat might work?

    If nothing else it overcomes the rusting issue with twisted wire, and potentially a permanent fix. Or do you think the mat would be too dense? I suppose that depends on how much you put in there.
     
  10. cmb56

    cmb56 Sweden Subscriber

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    I have the rods in my enameled stove.

    Personally, I think that the enamel on the stoves was the rust proofing before that stainless steel become more common.

    Michael
     
  11. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    Yes, strands unwoven and used as I did in that Turm restoration post with fibreglass mat strands.
     
  12. Simes

    Simes Subscriber

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    I see some experimentation ahead.

    Although I have the felt mat rather than woven which will be interesting.
     
  13. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    Thank you all, very truly appreciate the support.

    @presscall Yes, the deeper brush segment will be difficult to remove. I have a pair of pliers which should reach.

    I have some fiberglass exhaust wrap from another project and plenty of wire, I'll give some of that a shot to make a wick. If the rods don't have to be brass, I could cut up tig filler rods and probably try that option too. I may do so, not much to lose.

    Thanks folks.
     
  14. OMC

    OMC Subscriber

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    ...and fuel is not suspect for this type thing? jus checkin'

    Hmmmm :-k
    I post to mention, for surge suppressor rolled brass screen is often used, maybe most often used, should you maybe consider that?
    Roll it around a rod, double back rod to hold onto screen. Start with too much or max restriction and remove some if that leads to success.

    :-k ...let's say maybe having the surge suppressor nearest burner end is best (and ability to install/remove to clean)...

    a full length threaded rod (shisk-ka-bob approach)
    on far end a nut then a back stop washer
    then brass screen rolled around the rod (or copper scrub brush)
    then back stop washer & nut for near end

    Consider the source and that this idea only just occurred to me.
    Might it allow adjustment for positioning surge suppressor. -and-
    "In theory" say you squeeze copper scrub brush between 2 washers... might this allow you to adjust flow restriction? and it's all pretty simple, good luck
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2019
  15. hikerduane

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    Paged I see.
    Yes, I had success with gun cleaning brushes of a good caliber. Stopped surging, one burner was better than the other.
    Duane
     
  16. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    @OMC Fuel is a good call. This is the same yellow bottle HEET that my Trangia loves, fairly confident that's fine. Thanks for the ideas on the shis-kabob threaded rod, that could definitely be a good approach, even if the end result is fiberglass or whatnot.

    @hikerduane Do you remember what caliber you used?
     
  17. hikerduane

    hikerduane Subscriber

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    Sorry, dont recall caliber, a snug fit when trying to remove. Sold my Punker and Homestrand this summer.
    Duane
     
  18. Marc

    Marc Subscriber

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    Thanks for checking back in.
     
  19. orsoorso

    orsoorso Subscriber

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    for "filter" in my french spirit stoves i use carbon felt, wrapped on a twisted 1 mm stainless steel wire and with a spiral of o,5 mm stainless wire to hold the wrap together.
    it seems to last forever.
     
  20. Simes

    Simes Subscriber

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    Do you have pics @orsoorso I'm now intrigued.