Hi, I was going through old emails and found some advice on re-attaching stove legs to the brass tanks of stoves, which I had written for a friend some time ago. I thought I would post them in case anyone else needed such advice: I started my solder repairs using a small, half-pint kerosene blowlamp,which does the job but I was later given a gas torch by a good friend and that is easier as it has a narrower flame and is more controllable. I find that what we amateurs lack is practice, you improve during a soldering session but then set the tools aside for a few weeks or months and have to climb the learning curve all over again, next time. I bet the people in the Primus Factory could solder well in their sleep! Legs can be difficult, but I was given some good advice several years ago by Bryan Miller. He said; clean all surfaces well, flux and tin them, and then try a dry assembly. Have a clear space to work on, and good lighting, take plenty of time, don't have the torch lit, He recommended "wiring" the legs to a pan-ring to fix them in their correct relative position. The bottom of the legs can also be wired to each other, to locate them and tension them against the tank. I have also used a couple of turns of steel wire around the legs, where they contact the tank. When this band of wire is tensioned it pulls the legs into the correct location. All this is done before you light up the torch, so that you can re-position the leg or legs at any stage. I have also used what we call a "Jubilee Clip" in the UK, I don't know their name is in the US. These are hose-clips with a rack embossed on the metal strap and a screw fixed on the other end of the band. As the screw is tightened the diameter of the hose clip reduces, and tensions the hose onto the pipe. These come in a wide range of diameters. and it is possible to get them big enough to go around the tank of a two-pint stove, with the legs in place. You tension this hose clip to lock the leg into its correct location. Once all this dry-assembly is completed and you are happy with it, the soldered areas are fluxed,and the adjacent areas masked. Now is the time to think about lighting your torch and re-attaching the leg. The best advice must be to use minimum heat to do the job, by keeping the torch jet narrow and trying to avoid over-heating the tank and melting adjacent solder joints. Sefa has advised putting water in the pump cylinder to keep it cool during near-by soldering operations. I have successfully re-attached single legs "free-hand" but it is always a bit hit-or-miss as to whether you get the perfect alignment you are aiming for. I hope the above is of some use. Any comments or additional tips gladly received. Regards, Kerophile.