Rinnai Eatons of Canada

Discussion in 'Japan' started by Blueflame, Oct 25, 2016.

  1. Blueflame

    Blueflame Canada Subscriber

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    Fired up my two Eaton's of Canada suitcase stoves today. The 3 burner has a tank with a Coleman pump assembly as I could not repair the original for the life of me. I used a Coleman 200 lantern as a donor. Here are the pics. All burners fire up...but not much to see in full daylight.


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  2. scouterjan

    scouterjan Subscriber

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    awesome job, I have 2 2 burners, both going to be given away to some lucky person
    Jan
     
  3. Ross Henderson

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    @Blueflame, I realize this is an old thread, but I need help with a Rinnai RK-100R, I just picked up. I replaced the gasket in the filler cap and it holds pressure. Unfortunately, the tank seems to take very little pressure, and pumping for 60+ strokes encounters little resistance - I wonder if the check valve is shot. I sprayed in WD-40 to loosen it, to no effect. The leather pump assembly seems good after an overnight soak in motor oil. After 60+ strokes I can get a weak flame which lasts about 5 minutes, there is simply no pressure in the tank. Is it possible to remove the check valve assembly without cutting the unit open? Many thanks for any help you can offer.
    Ross
     
  4. Blueflame

    Blueflame Canada Subscriber

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    The check valve (NRV in this case) is removeable. A wide blade screwdriver should work just have to be careful not to damage the fitting. if someone has the correct tool for this please let us know. Good luck with that. I'm not sure if any spares are available for these stoves.
     
  5. Ross Henderson

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    Thanks for very fast response! I have removed the check valve, as you know, the unit then unscrews with the spring ass. inside. Seems to work fine - spring opens and closes the aperture . With the check valve out I looked down the sleeve and see the opening at the bottom does not open right into the tank. I put down a thin wire and found that it did not enter the tank - there appears to be another spring-type assembly there, I say 'spring type' as upon pressure it seems to give and take.

    I reassembled, filled the tank, pumped 100 times and the stove started, but only lasted a couple of minutes - the tank pressure was exhausted! Now, before starting I 'water bucket' tested the unit while under pressure (such as it was) and there are no leaks. So it seems that the tank is not taking pressure. Any thoughts on that?

    It's a unit in near perfect condition and came to me in the original box, it would be a shame to see it end up on the junk heap! Many thanks!
     
  6. Blueflame

    Blueflame Canada Subscriber

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    One thing I have noticed....if you look at a regular Coleman pump stem/knob, there is a hole which I believe is to allow air into the pump cylinder on the up stroke. The Rinnai pump does not have this hole....so I think this restricts the air from being pumped into the tank as the only air allowed in has to come from some leakage around the leather. This is my opinion. Because of that I removed the Rinnai pump and replaced it with the Coleman pump. I still have an original Rinnai tank but never was satisfied with the heat/flame output.
     
  7. Ross Henderson

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    Yes, true, but when I pump up my Coleman stove/lanterns I have my thumb over the hole in the stem.
    It appears that, for some reason, the pump is simply failing to get anything but a small amount of pressure into the tank. A blockage? Surely then no pressure would build. Is the leather failing in some way despite being sound in appearance? It doesn't make sense to me... but I'll keep fiddling with the unit and see what comes of it. Unfortunately, I don't possess your technical skills to be able to replace it with a Coleman unit. Thanks once again for taking the time to help me out.

    One thing - do you know if there is another spring loaded valve beneath the removable check valve assembly?
     
  8. scouterjan

    scouterjan Subscriber

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    I wonder if the air stem in the tank is gummed up and not closing. It sure sounds like it to me
    Jan
     
  9. Ross Henderson

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    Thank you Jan, I appreciate your input.
    -If the air stem was failing to close I would expect that this would be exposed when I put the pressurized fuel tank in my water dunk tank. Am I right?
    -The tank will take pressure, let's say about 5 PSI.
    -There is some limited resistance when I pump it. The resistance does not increase steadily as I would expect.
    -The check valve is working, I have confirmed this with tests.
    -The leather of the pump appears perfectly sound and has been soaked in oil.
    -100 strokes of the pump and I tested it into a mason jar, a good strong flow of liquid/vapour, but it only lasts a very short time.
    -100 strokes of the pump and the unit will light, and appears strong but peters out in less than 5 minutes.
    So that is the puzzle. All systems appear to be working and there are no leaks yet I am unable to build pressure in the tank. Seems to me there must be some problem with the leather pump gasket (correct term?) which I am unable to see. Any thoughts/suggestions would be much appreciated.
     
  10. scouterjan

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    No leaks will show up in a dunk test. When you light the stove it has fuel and air mixture but changes to straight fuel when you close the air circuit. It sounds like your air circuit is stuck open and it' depleting the tank pressure
    Jan
     
  11. Ross Henderson

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    Jan, now I understand what you are telling me. Thank you.
    On this unit the air mix appears to come from a little shutter which you open when lighting and close when running. There is no lever such as I have on my Coleman 425. Do you think there would also be an air stem in the tank itself and subject to some sort of automatic shut off? (Note: this are not pictures of my unit, but it is the same make/model)


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  12. scouterjan

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    Without pulling mine apart I am not sure but It sure wouldn't hurt to pull it out of the tank
    Jan
     
  13. Ross Henderson

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    Thanks Jan. Really I guess I have nothing to loose, the unit is just so much scrap metal if I can't get it running.
    I assume it is just a counter-clockwise rotation to remove it from the tank. I have detail stripped many Coleman lanterns but never a stove. If you have any tips for me they would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Ross
     
  14. scouterjan

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    Ross I have never taken mine apart but I would heat the bung that sticks up out of the tank wrap it with some leather and use vice grips to hold it the turn out the valve. I suspect left to loosen
    Jan
     
  15. Ross Henderson

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    Thanks for the input, Jan. I will attempt this, however I confess I got so frustrated I have set the Rinnai aside for the time being (feels like a summer project). On Sunday I picked up a Coleman 421 (1966) and a Coleman 413G (1974) both in serious need of restoration. Got them for a song at a flea market. I have embarked on a complete restoration of each - I first confirmed that both worked before starting! :) The 421 has been completedly dismantled and cleaned of rust and prepared for painting - sure is a lot of fun.