Shinabro Royal 400C (and Optimus 111T comparison)

Discussion in 'Shin A Ind. Co' started by presscall, Jul 16, 2011.

  1. teckguy_58

    teckguy_58 United States Subscriber

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    @presscall Hi John,

    Great post thanks for sharing.
    I have a couple of these South Korean stoves. I guess it is time to get them out and light um up.

    Cheers,
    Norman
     
  2. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    @teckguy_58 @Doc Mark @Tony Press
    Hi Norman
    I'll bet Doc will be coveting one of those if you could spare one! Tony's example sets the bar high - unused - a mixed blessing when they're such usable, and user-friendly stoves.

    John
     
  3. teckguy_58

    teckguy_58 United States Subscriber

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    @presscall
    Hi John,

    Here is my Captain B-103 sports stove.
    The case is in excellent shape, and so is the stove. I haven't fired it yet, but will sometime. The stove looks new, but it is used. The seller of the stove cleaned it up before shipping. Just in case someone is interested I'm not willing to part with this stove. The stove as can be seen is missing the roar plate, but in truth I prefer the silent burners.
    DSC03311.JPG DSC03312.JPG DSC03313.JPG DSC03314.JPG DSC03315.JPG DSC03316.JPG DSC03317.JPG DSC03318.JPG DSC03319.JPG

    I think I may have 2 or 3 more of these Korean stoves, and no I don't want to sell or trade these stove either.

    Cheers,
    Norman
     
  4. John Burns

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    I wonder if anyone can help. I have a Shinabro 400c which has been a faithful servant for over 30 years. Sadly it has now developed a paraffin leak underneath the top of the burner. See photo, you'll notice some bubbling of the metal at about 7.00 o'clock. This means it won't burn properly. It is probably not repairable so I am looking for a new burner. The only ones available are Primus substitutes which cost about £75, more than the stove is worth! Anyone know of where I might get one? I'm in the UK.

    Stove edit.jpg
     
  5. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi @John Burns , I am not volunteering but I believe a silver-based braze repair should be possible. I would recommend the silver “solder” hard braze as it has a lower melting point then the copper-based brazes used in the original construction of the burner. This means that you can carefully seal the leak without causing the rest of the burner to fall apart.

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-111t-burner-fault-a-mystery-solved.38409/

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-111t-shown-with-roarer-and-silent-burners.31255/

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  6. John Burns

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    Thanks for getting back to me. I'm not sure I have the skills to do that. Is there somewhere on Internet I can see how to do it?
     
  7. John Burns

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    What you mean?

     
  8. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi @John Burns That is the general idea. Cleanliness is next to godliness in brazing and with burners it a good idea to clean the surfaces to be brazed with a citric acid solution to remove the oxide film. You then need to ensure the burner is fully dry before heating the area to be brazed and applying the correct flux to melt and fully penetrate the gap, before placing the braze metal in the gap and melting it in turn.

    Highland Industrial Supplies on the Longman stock Johnson Matthey Easiflo brazes and flux.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  9. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  10. Simes

    Simes Subscriber

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    @John Burns Brazing isn't too scary as @kerophile has suggested, it just needs a bit more preparation and timing than soft soldering.

    You will need a hearth of some sort, fire brick or the ceramic from a flame gas fire will do.

    A torch of sufficient power to get your piece to the required temp in a reasonable time, although a small area may not need a larger burner.

    And if you're either new to it or haven't brazed for a while a couple of practice pieces to get your hand in wouldn't go amiss.

    Braze if it's structural but silver solder a leak would seem like the best approach initially.