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Svea 123 Disassembly

Discussion in 'Fettlers Master Class' started by Tony Press, Sep 3, 2016.

  1. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    A couple of different people have recently posted questions about the spindle and packing of the Svea 123.

    Previously I posted the disassembly of the 123R:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/svea-123r-disassembly.32989/


    So now here is the Svea 123 that I pulled down today:


    IMG_9364.jpg


    1. Note that the control spindle is (or should be) aligned to the "1" in Svea 123. Take off the burner bell (unscrew counter-clockwise).
    IMG_9342.jpg


    2. Unscrew the packing nut (8mm). Then fully unscrew the spindle with the control key.
    IMG_9363.jpg


    3. Using a good tight fitting spanner held firmly in a vise, unscrew the tank (counter-clockwise). The tank is much easier to unscrew from the vapouriser than visa versa, and there is less chance of burring the nut on the vapouriser.
    IMG_9343.jpg


    4. The components of the 123. Note that that the control spindle has only the packing nut and graphite packing - there are no other components, unlike the 123R control spindle.
    IMG_9345.jpg

    IMG_9354.jpg


    5. Take the washer from underneath the filler cap/SRV.
    IMG_9346.jpg


    6. Apply some heat to the nut at the top of the SRV to break the bond of any locking compound applied to the thread. This example has the penta fitting.
    IMG_9361.jpg


    7. Using a proper fitting tool (this one is from The Fettle Box) unscrew the penta nut from the filler cap. Note how many turns it takes to unscrew as you will need to go back to this point when you have replaced the SRV pip.
    IMG_9358.jpg

    IMG_9348.jpg


    8. These are the components of the SRV. Replace the viton pip and cap washer.
    IMG_9349.jpg


    9. In this instance, I replaced the wick.
    IMG_9350.jpg


    10. I also applied some extra graphite to the spindle before replacing the packing nut.
    IMG_9352.jpg


    11. The vapouriser is replaced using the same method as removal, being careful to not go beyond the "1".
    I use some copper grease when re-attaching the vapouriser. [this photo also shows that I used fine sandpaper to carefully remove a small burr from the tip of the control spindle).
    IMG_9351.jpg



    Reassembled and running:

    IMG_9367.jpg

    IMG_9366.jpg


    Washers, seals and SRV tool from The Fettle Box. Graphite from @Trojandog. Burner bell courtesy of @optipri


    Cheers

    Tony
     
  2. Giri

    Giri Canada Subscriber

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    Thank you for this tutorial.
     
  3. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi Tony. Clear and well presented tutorial.
    Best Regards,
    George.
     
  4. snwcmpr United States

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    Well done.
     
  5. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    Excellent :clap::clap:
     
  6. NW Lady

    NW Lady United States Subscriber

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    thank you so much for this. As a newbie, the "insides" of my stove is a mystery to me. Question: where on the spindle would I rewind a new piece of graphite? just behind the threads? 1/2 in back from the threads? Also, what size would I cut and use? Does it matter how tightly it is wrapped around the spindle? I googled "cooper grease" and found a number of items. could you tell me which you recommend? So... you put a little cooper grease on a washer and then tighten the vaporizer (top part ??) to the tank? Do you have or know of a video on youtube that shows this process? I've looked at many but most seem to SAY what they did and not really show the process. Thank you very much for any help.
     
  7. shueilung.2008 Uruguay

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    @NW Lady : Try this but in lieu of teflon tape, copper grease.




    Regards
    Enrique
     
  8. snwcmpr United States

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    @NW Lady
    If I understand you...
    The packing is a solid not a grease. It is made from graphite to be high temp resistant and also act as a lubricant, because the spindle spins there. The nut tightens onto the graphite packing and seals the spindle. If over tightened, the spindle won't turn, if undertightened the seal leaks.
     
  9. NW Lady

    NW Lady United States Subscriber

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    I must have misunderstood. I thought that the cooper grease was being used ..maybe where the vaporizer screws into the tank. So... it is just a washer when the tank and vaporizer connect? thanks for all the help. I don't have any problems right now but want to learn what to do if I do get a problem and have supplies on hand.
     
  10. shueilung.2008 Uruguay

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    @NW Lady : The teflon tape, cooper grease, graphite paste or anti seize lubricant (Bernie Dawg's recommendation) when screwing the vapouriser to the tank is only to help disassembly in the future without damaging the treads.
    The graphite washer (if you can't get the original from Optimus you can use substitute graphite tape) forms a seal around the spindle like @snwcmpr said and, in the case of the 123, goes directly behind the treads of the spindle.
     
  11. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @NW Lady

    I use a very small amount of copper grease on the thread. This is only to ensure that the threads re tighten with ease and aren't forced and can be taken apart again without the two metal surfaces locking together. It may act as a mild sealant but that is a secondary effect.

    I put the grease on the thread with a paint brush. My copper grease may not be available in the US but it's just called <<brand name>> Copper Grease. When I'm back in the shed I'll get the brand for you.

    I used the amount of graphite you see in the above photo wrapped as tightly as possible around the shaft about 1/4 inch from the thread towards the outer end of the spindle. The trick is to squeeze it enough for the packing nut to fit over it. It doesn't need to look pretty because the packing nut will squash it into shape when tightened up.

    If it leaks (small flame) at the packing nut after tightening, give it 1/4 turn clockwise. Repeat until leak disappears.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  12. NW Lady

    NW Lady United States Subscriber

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    Shueilung and Tony... thank you very much for the info. I think I got it. :)
     
  13. Hoostas United States

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    Fantastic post. Thank you. I have a small leak at the packing nut, and as far as I can tell there is no graphite at all there. Where can this stuff be purchased?

    On a side note, my 123 won't kick up to blue flame, it maintains large yellow flames. Is this from the missing graphite strip? Thanks- Guy with his first stove- Justin
     
  14. snwcmpr United States

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    @Hoostas
    You say a small leak. Are you certain it cannot be tightened? Photos help.

    @Trojandog sells some graphite sheets in the "Trading Post" section here. I believe he also has an ebay handle. (????) That is what I use, and have since I joined here. It is the best.
    The graphite 'packing' shaped for the stove can be found several places online.

    Yes, most likely.
     
  15. Hoostas United States

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    Yeah, small, and only if wide open. If I can get a pic when I'm off I'll post it here.. Thank you so much for the reply. I'll see what I can find. Gotta get her up and running, were going to the woods! Well swamp, I live in Florida lol.
     
  16. snwcmpr United States

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    Have you tried loosening then tightening the packing nut?
    That is the nut where the leak is.
     
  17. Trojandog

    Trojandog United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @Hoostas

    The graphite when compressed can give the appearance of metal. As snwcmpr says - try tightening the nut (it compresses best if warm, so try tightening while the stove is running).

    @snwcmpr

    Yes, I sell the graphite foil on Ebay as terrry123, but it's 20% cheaper to buy from me via CCS Member Services.
     
  18. SPaul United States

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    Here are some pictures that show how to install graphite packing ribbon. Tightening the nut will compress it.

    Svea 1.jpg

    Svea 2.jpg

    Svea 3.jpg
     
  19. snwcmpr United States

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  20. Hoostas United States

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    Hello- I sealed up the packing nut (sorry did not see the terry 123 post, would have bought from you), and I put in a new lid gasket. Sealed tight. Even held pressure over night. No leaks any where. But... Still can't get good blue flame. I took a pick wide open, and one barely on to show you guys.. I must have missed something..
    stove 1.JPG stove 2.JPG