Svea No.14 - Fire up some hoosh?

Discussion in 'Svea No:14' started by PVB, Nov 12, 2011.

  1. PVB

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    1321138835-Svea__14_Nov_12_11_opt.jpg

    I got this cool stove at a tag sale.
    Could anyone provide some guidance for me, so I can get it running?

    Things I know I need:
    stove grate; mine is broken
    leather pump seal
    was there a heat shield?
    diagram and instructions
    what else?

    BTW was this the type of stove that Ernest Shackleton used?

    THANKS in advance
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  2. RonPH

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    Really looks like an old Primus stove looking at the cap. It would be nice to get a grate but not necessary. The heat shild pops up on Ebay. Look at the bottom of the tank for a date code.

    Congratulations.

    Ron
     
  3. idahostoveguy

    idahostoveguy R.I.P.

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    It's old all right, look at the external NRV. Definitely has the typical Svea feet!

    Yeah, the burner looks like an old Primus #4 burner, but don't get me wrong, they are nice burners and look very classic on the #14.

    Looks like it is missing the jet/nipple for the burner.

    Nice one!

    sam
     
  4. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi PVB, Welcome to CCS.

    1. You have acquired a nice classic kerosene stove from the pre-1920s I would guess, so perhaps available for Shackleton but I think he might have favoured the Primus brand.

    2. Under no circumstances should you use gasoline or Coleman fuel in this type of stove.

    3. You don't need a grate or trivet at this stage, but can buy a generic replacement later perhaps.

    4. It would be a good idea to replace all the seals and washers on the stove. Some will probably be asbestos-bearing, and all will be old. Spiritburner, our Site owner, sells a complete set of such seals and should also be able to provide a new jet at reasonable cost.

    5. A heat shield would not have been standard on this stove and is not needed for normal operation.

    6. Here are some instructions:

    http://www.base-camp.co.uk/instructions 3.htm

    7. An early catalogue (1915) showing your stove and parts list:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/213


    Hope this helps.
    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
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  5. PVB

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    Dear Kerophile,

    Thanks for your note & info. Don't worry, I know that this is a kerosene burner, and that use of gasoline would be "bad news". (Although if I ever become an expert I might try a kero-veggie oil blend just for fun. We burn WVO in our Jetta TDI and it runs nice!)

    Who can I contact at spiritburner to purchase the rebuild kit? And should I break the pipe threaded joint between the tank and the burner up tube? It looks pretty happy as it is.

    Many thanks.

    Sincerely,
    PVB
     
  6. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi PVB,

    1. The gasoline warning was issued because Coleman stoves are ubiquitous in the US and the assumption is often that all classic stoves can use the fuel.

    2. The contact for the replacement washers is Ross, AKA Spiritburner, the CCS site owner and general good guy:

    http://www.https://classiccampstoves.com/members/member.15//

    3. Under no circumstances should you interfere with the tank to riser joint on this stove. It is factory fitted before the base is attached to the tank!

    Any queries, ask before carrying out the action...

    Hope this helps.
    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2015
  7. PVB

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    Hi Kerophile & Co. !
    I have cleaned my stove up a bit, and am about to replace the seals, as you recommended. Several questions:

    Is kerosene the best, or can I use #2 heating oil, or diesel fuel?

    What is typically used for pre-heat: methanol, ethanol or what? White gas okay?

    What lubricant should I use on the leather pressure pump seal, or does the kerosene serve the purpose?

    Thanks a lot,
    PVB

    PS I got my top grate welded (I had all 11 peices), it came out nice.
     
  8. Wim

    Wim Subscriber

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    Hi PVB, only use kerosene in your stove! Diesel has to many nasty additives. For priming you can use ethanol or methanol (I use methanol as I happen to have a 20liter drum in my garage ;) ). Don't use gas, as you'll get lots of soot. Oiling the pumpcup can be done with any mineral or vegetable oil (I use engine oil as I happen etc... :roll: ;) ).

    Have fun with your gorgeous stove!

    Best regards,

    Wim
     
  9. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  10. Doc Mark

    Doc Mark Subscriber

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    Him PVB,

    Welcome to CCS, and hearty congrats on getting your SVEA #14! That was supposedly the very first stove carried up on to Denali (Mt. McKinley) in Alaska, and in a museum in Fairbanks, I saw the stove that was actually carried!! I was jazzed when my own #14 came to live with me, but it's missing the "baby butt" flame spreader, and so far, I've not been able to source a replacement.

    In any case, what kerophile has told you, and recommended, is most definitely the way to with your old SVEA!! NO matter what runs great in your car, STICK to K1, water-white kerosene in your old stove!! Diesel is horrible in stoves, and causes very little more than massive grief and lots of trouble. Burn good kero, prime with Meths, and your old SVEA will give you unbelievable performance for many, many years to come. I second George's recommendation of Ross' gasket sets. George, too, offers some outstanding gaskets/heat-proof washers. Get a new pump leather from my CCS Brother, Sefa, in Turkey, too, and you will thank yourself for doing so every single time you use your old stove! Sefa's leathers are without peer, and far better than even the original ones! Other than that, I again advise you to stick with what Kerophile has suggested, and you will not go wrong!

    Here's my old #14, after BernieDawg rebuilt the burner screen, and I added a special Sefa leather, and changed the NRV, with a cap that came from Kerophile. Burns VERY well, indeed!! I LOVE this old stove, and think you will love yours, too!

    1330876146-DSCN0738.JPG

    1330876170-DSCN0740.JPG

    1330876188-DSCN0786.JPG

    Have fun, and again, welcome to CCS!! Take care, and God Bless!

    Every Good Wish,
    Doc
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2015
  11. PVB

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    Hi Doc et al.
    Things are looking pretty good so far: the new pressure pump leather seal is behaving nicely and I got the NRV rebuilt and operating correctly, with some diddling around.

    I could use some advice in the jet install, however. It goes in pretty hard and incompletely. A yellow flame leaks out the side of the jet's threads. I hesitate to use excessive force, and luckily I don't have a tap to clean out those tiny threads. Any advice?
    Many thanks,
    PVB
     
  12. yonadav

    yonadav Subscriber

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    Hi PVB,

    Make sure you are using a correct jet, and that you align it properly with the threads in the burner tube. Do not force it - you might break the jet or damage the burner threads. The jet should screw down all the way with minimal force. Use a straight jet wrench - it looks much like the tool under Doc's palm with the two leathers, only smaller.

    Yonadav
     
  13. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi PVB, Yonadav has given sound advice. I find that a small amount of graphite grease or copper-bearing grease smeared on the jet threads can aid fitting, and help stop leaks around the side of the jet.
    Good Luck,
    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.