SVEA123 :-(

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Fading Margins, Nov 18, 2018.

  1. Fading Margins United Kingdom

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    In a fit of stove fever I bought a new Optimus SVEA and I have to say with its lineage and my experience of the Nova (original stolen, new one currently) I had high expectations - this thing is a legend, is it not? My was I to be disappointed. The thing is solid enough though the cup sits on rather than fits the stove. It fires up but there is a very firm snick to get past to turn it on. Then when you turn it off you get a small candle flame out of the jet. So I dismantled it, checked the spindle, removed the pricker temporarily but none of these fixed the issues. Now the former I could live with but I don't want fuel residue through my bag. Optimus should be ashamed. I have relegated the thing to my shelf of disappointments. Come back Trangia all is forgiven!!

    Anyone want it - make me an offer!
     
  2. Harder D. Soerensen

    Harder D. Soerensen Denmark Subscriber

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    @Fading Margins
    Hi - could you post a few pics. Just to see the version of your 123R. In my experience - the older the stove the better the build quality .
    The small flame when turning it of could be a wrong setting of the jet pricker?
    It can also be a bit of residue where the regulator stop the fuel when shutting of?

    Cheers
    Harder
     
  3. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    Sounded like bad assembly at first reading but having disassembled it and put the bits back together again without the pricker, it can’t be the phenomenon of the pricker rack bottoming out before the spindle tip beds home on the mating surface. Mmm.

    Sounds like a project I could get to grips with. I’ll get in touch @Fading Margins

    John
     
  4. Harder D. Soerensen

    Harder D. Soerensen Denmark Subscriber

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    My bad
    I didn’t catch this part:
     
  5. afoton

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    I got a Svea 123R (made in Taiwan) some years ago, and that one also had this problem. Long time, I was thinking it was residue between the regulator and the jet, but I rejected that theory after some usage (3-4 years) when the flame became bigger, and burned even longer. I then replaced the spindle, but that didn't help.
    I even got another, older, used stove (Made in Sweden), but that one was not better. Because this one was used, I ofcourse have no knowlegde of how it is used and abused
    I am now using a 123, and that one is working the way it is meant to work.
     
  6. bem1965

    bem1965 Sweden Subscriber

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    @Fading Margins
    I have the same experience as @afoton. My old 123R does not turn off but my Sievert 123 does. My solution is to use the 123 and let the 123R play in the Taiwanese Sigg Tourist clone. So far this seems to work just fine, since the Tourist clone is on probation pending a lead content test.......

    I'd be much interested in any findings by @presscall in fixing the problem.
    /Lars
     
  7. Pillepalle3

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    I also have this issue with one of my Primus 71s...
    So it might be an issue this kind of burner design intends to have...?
     
  8. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom SotM Winner SotY Winner Subscriber

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    The price quoted me by the original poster was perfectly reasonable, but I had a think about how much (not very much) I wanted to attempt a repair and respectfully declined the offer.

    John
     
  9. Fading Margins United Kingdom

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    Update: I have left the cleaning needle out which seems to make no difference to performance apart from one not having to worry how far one opens the throttle. If I run it hot, like boil a litre of water so that unit is at full operating temperature then it goes out on the throttle otherwise she candles. That said on warm up you do get a bit of pre-gasification fuelling with the throttle shut. I can only think that once properly hot the fuel vapour is evacuated but otherwise condenses between the spindle and the jet hence both phenomena.
     
  10. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    @Fading Margins
    You said that you did a tear down and reassemble.
    When you checked the spindle, and I assume looked into the spot that the spindle sets, did you take any photos?
    I seriously think that may be a subtle, but significant, chance to be where the problem is. Maybe the solution would be to re-seat that point. (There are instructions, somewhere on this site).
    And, where else can there be a cause for the fuel to seep from the tank to the jet/nipple?
    I would think that it may be worth a few minutes to investigate. How many minutes, that depends on you.

    I do not have any 123R stoves. I love the 123.

    Ken in NC
     
  11. SimonFoxxx

    SimonFoxxx Subscriber

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    I have a phrase for this kind of situation, "stove disappointment". In my experience this can be intense. Best of luck for resolution.
    Cheers
    Simon Foxxx
     
  12. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Fading Margins

    Try this:

    Get some very fine grinding paste and apply to the comical end of the spindle. With the pricker rack removed, gently screw the spindle open and shut about 50 times. Repeat.

    Then clean with all the grinding paste out with carburettor cleaner.

    Test to see whether that fixes your problem.

    Tony
     
  13. Haggis

    Haggis Subscriber

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    I have a 123, and every time I start thinking seriously about buying a new 123r, I read something about problems with them,,,
     
  14. afoton

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    There are not much that can go woring with a 123r, so you should not be afraid of that. But me and many others do prefer 123, so why go for a 123r?
    I am a big fan of integrated cleaning needle. Both because it is allways there, but most because it will pull the dirt out of the burner, not inside it as it will with an external needle. When it comes to 123, it is the stove I own with less need of a needle, beacuse the gasoline is filtered throug the wick. When actually need to clean the jet, it is very easy to take off the burner. Just take off the burner bell, and the jet is on top of the burner, ready to unmount with the tool that also is the regulating key. It is not like a 111, where it is a real pain in the ass to get the jet out, and even twice worser to get it inisde again.
     
  15. Fading Margins United Kingdom

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    I wrote to Optimus today to express my disappointment with the quality of my new stove and received the following reply. I found it very instructive:

    Hi Stephen



    Thank you for your mail. I’m sorry that you are disappointed with the Optimus Svea.

    The Svea is not really an alternative to an Optimus Nova or Polaris, it is an antique stove that was first built in 1920 and was never changed or modified. The burner technology is that old, it’s a self-pressurizing stove just for white gas with all the characteristics of that time. Most of the customers like this more than old school design and functionality.

    The Svea was never designed for real outdoor use. It was designed for cooking at home.


    For outdoor use there’s no alternative to Nova or Polaris. This stoves are designed for heavy duty use, all kind of petrochemical fuels could be used without changing the jet, from white gas up to diesel or jet fuel.


    Kind regards


    Ronald Schindele

    I only mentioned I that I own a Nova and was pleased with the quality.
     
  16. Trojandog

    Trojandog United Kingdom Subscriber

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    That reply from Optimus only goes to prove that they have no idea what they are talking about. Either that or they are talking about a completely different stove. "never designed for real outdoor use. It was designed for cooking at home" is hilarious. 123R designed in 1920????
     
  17. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    Product Manager at Katadyn?
     
  18. afoton

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    Now I will second this.
     
  19. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    I wonder if the stoves are made to specifications ... but, are lacking the personal craftsmanship of the previous times.
    I learned that Ford had the same problem with transmissions. Those made in Japan were not returned for warranty issues as those made in the US factories. Same specifications. Japanese made only used 20 some percent of the tolerance. US made used 80 some percent.

    Ken in NC
     
  20. Harder D. Soerensen

    Harder D. Soerensen Denmark Subscriber

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    I had a good working 123 from the 70’ies. After I started working the Juwel 34’s, Meva 2140 and my primus 71 - all in their own very practical tins, I sold my 123. To much hassle with the pot, handle, windshield & the key chain. The performance was no better than the much easier stoves.
    If its cold and windy - I can just use the pump-filler lid and the small pump for my Optimus on the 71.
    I don’t mind they have no pricker. I clean them thoroughly (tank and burner) and put in a new wick. Very rarely have issues with the jet clogging.

    @Fading Margins - if you’re interested, I can help you get a nice Juwel 34 for like 20-40€ (depending on looks)?
    Or you can borrow one of mine for the postage?
    (Send me a PM if interested)