Svea123R will not turn off

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Cooter Bill, May 22, 2019.

  1. Cooter Bill United States

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    Hi my brand new svea 123R will not turn off, no matter how hard I turn the key the valve leaks and the flame will not go out, any suggestions as to a fix? Thanks!
     
  2. Lennart F Norway

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    It seems to be wrong assembly of the needle holder:-k
     
  3. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    Remove jet.
    Then, turn valve CCW (left) and the needle will rise. When the needle is free, remove it.
    Turn valve closed, CW (right)
    Replace jet.

    Try the stove now and see. It may be just the setting of the pricker.
    If good, then reply here and the setting for the pricker will be shared by someone else.

    Ken in NC
     
  4. Cooter Bill United States

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    Hey Ken: thanks! Followed your instructions but stove still will not turn completely off (when turned clockwise) but all is not lost. I hit on the method of turning the key completely clockwise, the fire will immediately go out, after a cool down period I release the pressure and turn the valve completely clockwise to close. Thanks again! Cooter Bill.
     
  5. JP2

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    @Cooter Bill
    Hi and welcome
    I don't understand how you can closed the valve off the second time when it is already close. ???????
    Why don't you release pressure by the fuel cap?
    Also if the stove is new, why not just exchanges you stove with another one that work good. !!!??!!!!
     
  6. Cooter Bill United States

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    Hello Lennart, my thoughts exactly, thanks!
     
  7. snwcmpr

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  8. Cooter Bill United States

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    Oops! My Bad! meant to say counter clockwise! Seems to be something wrong with the valve itself though, it is very rough and won't seat won't seat even without the pricker installed. tnx Contacted the company negociating a replacement.
     
  9. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Cooter Bill

    If you have some fine emery paper (800 or more), give the conical end of the control spindle a polish to get rid of nicks and scoring.

    Then put some grinding paste on it and screw it open and shut about 50 times to help it re-seat cleanly in the burner.

    Then clean with carburettor cleaner and re-assemble.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  10. Cooter Bill United States

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    Hey Tony! Thanks for the advice, contacted the company and as the stove was brand new ( I've had it for only a few weeks and last weekend was the first time I attempted to use it camping) they advised me to return it to them. Thanks!
     
  11. afoton

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    I have tryed this without any success on my (unfortunatly worn out) 123R. But that one has seen heavy use over several years.
     
  12. JP2

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  13. afoton

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    I have not tryed that. I have read it several times, but allways think my skills/tools will make more bad than good trying it, so it is better to wait. Even if I think of my 123R as worn out, I still have it. So as long I do not ruin it, it will not be to late to try something in the future.

    More important than fixing my 123R, would be to fix my Radius 43 that also has a small leak by the spindle. But that is a stove of much higher value. If I had fixed my 123R in a way that I think I can reproduce, the 43 will be the next step. The leak of the 43 is much smaller, so I can use it even if I have to open the tank lid (no problem with kerosene in the tank) to get it out.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2019
  14. JP2

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    Can you show us some pictures of your stove opened? Maybe we can see something that you miss or/and other options to fix it. The future could be NOW as now is the future.
     
  15. Tony Press

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    @afoton

    Does the conical end on your spindle have marks? If not it could be a “timing” issue, or the receiving end needs some careful grinding with emery paper (I roll it into a small cone).

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  16. afoton

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    I do not know how I can make pictures of the inside of my burner, so that is out of question. I can point the camera against it, but then it will be total darkness inside the burner, or I can point a flash light against it, but then there is no place for the camera.
    After the work with grinding paste, the insde of the burner looks good to me. I am not sure it did looked less good before.
    If by 'timing issue', you mean the cleaning needle is set too hight, that is not the issue, because the stove do not shut off even without the needle in place. That said, I have a Optimus 8R where I hope this is the issue, but I have not been able to get the jet loose.
    For the 123R, I have tryed, without success, a new spindle. I can't see any marks on even the old or the new spindle.
    For the 43 I have tryed the spindle from my Optimus 111T. That spindle is new and works on the 111T.
     
  17. snwcmpr

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    For clarification.
    When you mean that it does not turn off when you turn the valve closed ... do you mean a small candle flame or larger?
    A small candle flame can be quite common.

    Also, turning the valve really tight can damage the valve seat/cone.
     
  18. JP2

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    OK, so far so good.
    First, I need to see on what we will worked on so it is possible for you to take a general picture like on these examples
    20181120_194624.jpg 20181120_194519.jpg
     
  19. afoton

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    My worn out 123R has a flame just barely possible to blow out, The small flame had been there some years before.
    The Radius 43 has just the small flame, but that turn off when I release the pressure.

    I have never used force on any spindle.
     
  20. snwcmpr

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    @afoton It would be good to see a photo of the tip ... if you pull the spindle out again.

    But, a small flame may not be worth the fettle.