Taylor's 065 Rebuild...

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by jeffd, Jan 21, 2020.

  1. jeffd

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    Okay, so I got a 'free' boat awhile back. For you non-seagoing types, those are the most expensive boats you can have. Right up there with 'free' horses.

    Here's the heater as it was installed: IMG_3014.jpg

    Anyway, it came with this cool Taylor's 065 heater/water heater combination, and I decided to finally try firing it up yesterday. I had already removed about 1/8" of silver paint from the pressure tank, cleaned it out, and was able to put a little pressure into it. After a preheat with alcohol, it actually fired right up! Not saying it was pretty with an orange, chugging flame. Anyway, I went to pump more pressure in, and the pump shaft had zero resistance. The cup shredded, which is understandable since the heater hasn't been used in at least 15 years. I'd honestly be happy retrofitting a Schraeder valve to the top of the pump body if I could get a new cap. I want to keep the original for backup, though. Here's the tank: IMG_4433.JPG

    So, since it lit and actually warmed the cabin of the boat and the tank of water above, I've decided to revive/renew her. I removed it from the boat and it's on my workbench. Not a showpiece, but as a practical unit for sailing on the SF Bay.

    I need a pump cup. I was referred to Fettlebox in another post, so I'll be reaching out. the ID of the pump body is .664" by my caliper, and the shaft is 6mm. The one-way valve on the bottom of the body says "Primus".

    Here's the burner as it was removed. IMG_1497.JPG
    The stuff in the lower cup looks like asbestos rope of some sort. That cup has two metal nibs that fit into retaining slots in the bottom of the heater. Am I correct to assume the burner itself unscrews from this assembly? Is the fiber rope to absorb preheating alcohol if (when) it spills from the motion of the boat?If so, I'll probably replace it with woodstove door seal or the like, unless there's a reason to use something else. As far as the burner goes, I'm planning on just a soak in vinegar and some blasts of carb cleaner after removing the jet and valve body. Is this a type of burner that's still available? Do I actually NEED to replace the pricker, or can I just use one of the angled tools I see advertised on Ebay-the ones with a handle and a piece of wire coming out at a 90 degree angle?

    Sorry for the question dump. There's almost zero information out there on this particular heater, and there don't seem to be any users or suppliers here in the US!
     
  2. Ian

    Ian Subscriber

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    Ah, yes. A hole in the water, lined with wood, into which you continuously throw wheelbarrowfuls of money.
    Got that T-shirt.
    Happy days. :)
     
  3. jeffd

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    “I spent most of my dough on booze, broads and boats and the rest I wasted.” -Elmore Leonard
     
  4. ArchMc

    ArchMc Subscriber

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    You may be able to get the leather pump cup from The Fettlebox, if you provide the diameter. Best just to start a conversation and ask.

    Not sure what material you have in the priming cup, but I would replace it. Wood stove gasket material is a good choice. (Many folks cut a ring out of carbon fiber welders blanket, which also works well.) I would run a torch flame over the surface of the stove gasket "rope" to avoid fiberglass splinters when handling it. Also, run a piece of stainless steel wire lengthwise through the fiberglass "rope", so it will keep the loop shape you give it. This does keep the alcohol from sloshing out, and also provides a priming flame that's more concentrated around the burner, as well as not flaring as much above the burner. (Flaring can be overly exciting in an enclosed space.)

    ....Arch
     
  5. jeffd

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    I’ll grab a hunk of fire gasket, for sure. Is that the priming cup? I poured the alcohol in the one above it thinking that was the priming cup. Seemed to work okay, which was pretty surprising given the condition of the burner and the low pressure in the tank.

    I’ll definitely reach out to Fettlebox for the cup and probably any other washers I’m going to replace. If I have to pay shipping to California, it might as well be for everything I need! I wish I could get fittings with the right threading here-thinking I might reach out to some of the shops that work on vintage MG’s and Jags.
     
  6. ArchMc

    ArchMc Subscriber

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    Actually, the cup above is the priming cup, and I would put a "rope" there, too. (That's how to get more control of your priming flame.) The lower cup must just be to catch overflow.

    ....Arch
     
  7. jeffd

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    Awesome. Pulled the burner/two cups assembly apart today and gave it a vinegar bath. Most of the blackness came right off, certainly enough to satisfy me. I'm confident there isn't any gunk where it shouldn't be. Going to need some fibre washers and other parts, though.
     
  8. jeffd

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    Took the stove cap/water tank body to the welder today and he fixed the pipe section where it exited the top cap. The previous owner of the boat mounted the stove in such a way that the assembly was allowed to buckle and it broke the welds. Didn’t notice the crack until I removed the stove from the boat...:shock:

    He also added a stainless support strut to stiffen the entire unit. Seems unlikely that the thing will crack again. A465079A-93DC-4E62-BB60-C9C61BD251E5.jpeg 5BBDBF8D-099D-46F8-A15F-31CD328EA0CB.jpeg
     
  9. Stephen Hollinshead Ireland

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    Lovely...!
    Hope the heater works out OK...
    I just got a Taylors 066 and can't wait to clean it up and install on a classic yacht..
    Schrader valve is a good idea on your pressurised tank, the original pumps always fail.
    You could fit a cheap 12volt automatic air compressor, set it to correct pressure and just let it do the work.
    This guy Julian in UK is good for any pressurised bits and burner parts -
    https://www.tilleylampsandstoves.com/