Victory stove

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by Curious Dave, Dec 1, 2020.

  1. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Hi,
    I only joined today and hope that this is where I can ask a question.
    I have a Victory stove that used to be in a boat I owned. I want to take the Hipolito number 1 paraffin stove from it on a hike on Friday, but having taken the jet out to clean it I can no longer get the flame adjustment valve to work. I assume it is a problem with the rack and pinion. Does anyone know how to adjust this other than by trial and error and copious meths or bio ethanol for pre heating? Thanks
    David
     
  2. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  3. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Kerophile. Thank you for the prompt reply.
    I didn’t see a cleaning needle when I replaced the jet, but that may have been down to poor light and poor eyesight. It does explain the vertical hole in the tip of the rack and the horizontal hole just below the tip. The instructions are similar I suppose to the Svea 123R.
    Strangely, I didn’t remove the rack / cleaning needle when I removed the jet. Perhaps I broke the needle off when I replaced the jet after cleaning it? I should have left well alone, as the flame was a beautiful blue before my handy work, but the fuel was about 15 years old and I started the stove up without looking at it. When I emptied the fuel it was dirty and oily looking. Hence the cleaning afterwards and consequent damage. Some people never learn.
    Oh well, all is not lost. It shouldn’t be too difficult to replace the missing bit of wire. Does anyone know how thick it is and how much it should protrude? My go to wire is a number 8 guitar string, but that may be too thin. I hope that my reply is in the correct place. Thank you again for your help. David
     
  4. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi Dave, the easy option is to just remove the cleaning needle (rack and any remaining needle) then replace the jet and use the stove without the internal cleaning needle.

    Examine the jet closely when you have it out and ensure that there is no blockage or damage to the aperture.

    You can buy or make external clearing needles to manually clean the jet, when needed.

    The jet aperture of the burner should be 0.32 mm diameter. The cleaning wire 0.28 to 0.3mm diameter, to be a sliding fit in the jet aperture.

    It is difficult to put a new cleaning wire on an internal cleaner. They were originally crimped into place in a prepared hole. Some people have successfully brazed a new wire into an old rack but it is easy to destroy the thin wire when exposing it to a brazing torch.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  5. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Perhaps I didn’t lose the needle after all. It may have been missing already. As to the valve not shutting off, I think the fuel is going through the horizontal hole in the needle rack and out of the hole at the top. I suspect that the hole was blocked before and my cleaning has dislodged the blockage.
    With snow a possibility on Friday, I think I’ll have to sort out another stove to take on my walk.
    Thanks again. David
     
  6. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi @Curious Dave

    It is possible that the needle is at the bottom of its travel and that is why you cannot find it.

    You will need to re-set the cleaning needle, so that the stove burner can operate as designed.

    To do this you need to remove the jet to give access to remove the cleaning needle, then reset the needle to synchronise with the valve, as described in the instructions I provided the link to earlier:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/fitting-replacement-parts-on-regulated-burners.8843/


    Similar burner with the same operating principle. You can see how the valve closure and cleaning needle are synchronised in this cut-away:

    Regulated burner cutaway

    The closed position is achieved with the regulator knob fully clock-wise.

    The "cleaning needle fully up" position occurs with the regulator knob fully anti-clockwise.

    The maximum stove power position on a regulated burner of this type is mid-way between the closed and needle fully up positions.

    There is only about 1/4 to one-third of a turn between these two positions.

    You should never use the needle of a regulated burner as a throttle because you will get rapid erosion of the needle.

    If you have fuel leaking out of the jet when the regulator knob is fully clockwise, the cleaning needle is preventing the needle valve from fully closing. You need to remove the jet and cleaning needle and then re-set the cleaning needle to 3 or 4 "clicks" before re-inserting the jet.

    Hope this helps,

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
  7. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Kerophile.
    Wow. The response on this site is second to none.
    Between my last message to you and your reply, I had removed the cleaning needle rack and replaced the jet. I was about to fire it up when I heard your e-mail arrive. Now I’m undecided. Do I remove the jet and replace the needle rack (without needle wire) or try it with the needle rack removed? As I mentioned in my post, I think the fuel is able to enter the horizontal hole in the rack and exit via the vertical hole in the tip where the cleaning wire should be. If this is so, then it will never close off the jet. Have I just answered my own question?
    To run the stove without the long on off spindle sticking out will make it easier to put in my rucksack. So! Here goes. Fire up. No needle rack.
    Look out for a fireball over Leicester.
    David.
     
  8. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Kerophile. Well it looks as though I will be taking the stove after all. Rack / needle removed and the stove works fine. It seems I wasn’t thinking clearly. This stove is the only one I have that has a cleaning needle and I had thought that the needle had something to do with shutting the fuel off. It doesn’t of course. Now, do I replace the rack minus its needle so that I don’t lose it, or just leave it out and forget it? My next problem is the pot stand legs are missing and nothing I have is long enough. It didn’t need them of course when it was in the Victory heater. I have no suitable steel rod, but am sure I’ll mackle something up before Friday. Thank you again for your help.
    Kind regards,
    David
     
  9. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  10. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Hello Kerophile,
    Your message about the legs came as I was boiling water on the stove for a coffee. I could only find enough steel to make two legs, so I cut up a solid aluminium rod rest which was enough for three as long as I made them with just a right angle instead of the kind of S shape that they usually are. It worked fine. I can’t see them getting hot enough to melt and of course they are very light. The longest job was filing the ends down by 1.5 mm to get them to fit in the sockets. I did have to make one leg for my OO stove which I was pleased with. It looks just like the original ones. I will have a look at the links as you were good enough to send them, but will probably not make any more as I may not take the Hipolito out again as it really belongs in the Victory stove and will end up back in the attic from whence it came. I do however, have a mixed bag of stoves that I take out once a fortnight and have been taking a different one each trip. I was scraping the barrel when I remembered the Hipolito in the attic. It was either that or a Hobo stove. The thought of gathering wood after all this wet weather put me of that one. But next trip ?
    Can I send a photo of the Hipolito in action with its ally legs? If so, how?
    Thank you once again.
    David
     
  11. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Shoot! I’ve just seen how if I take one now, but the stove is off. I have a photo of it running earlier but don’t know how to post it.
    David
     
  12. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi David. Select “Upload a File” from your reply. It will give you options and you should be able to select a photo from your photo library and then select a photo the select “done” and the selected photo will be added to your reply.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  13. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    If this works, it’s a photo of the makeshift ally legs. image.jpg
     
  14. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    I did try that as it seemed logical. I couldn’t find the photo. Just realised its on my phone not this tablet. I’ll try and send it from the phone
     
  15. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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  16. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    Well here it is, such as it is

    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 2, 2020
  17. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi, nicely presented Hipolito stove with a very impressive flame pattern. Well done.
    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  18. Curious Dave United Kingdom

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    To Kerophile,
    Just saw the article on using tent pegs. The only ones I had were too thin. At least the rod rest got used. I had retired it as it wasn't as strong as my other ones.
    Thank you again for your help and information. I have a French army petrol stove with, I think, 3 hairline cracks in the tank. When I bought it at a car boot sale in France, I didn't notice them. It doesn't look as though it has been used. It's missing the giant mess tin like container
    It has been in my shed since 2016. Do you know if anyone has successfully fixed a problem like that? I thought of running resin around inside after removing the pump etc. Or of opening it up and running solder round it. I even considered using an empty gas canister of similar size and soldering the threaded parts in.
    No rush and no worries as I'm not in the mood to spend too long on it. Thanks yet again for your help.
    Kind regards,
    David
     
  19. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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