1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Well this was unexpected svea 123 anomoly

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Billofthenorth, Aug 12, 2017.

  1. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    A new to me 123 hasn't been functioning to expectations, I broke her down and found a brass screen around the upper portion of the wick. I've not seen that on any of the tutorials or heard mention in other threads. Might I assume this was a mod done by a predecessor? I would them assume there would be no harm in omitting it upon reassembly, after replacing the gnarly wick naturally.

    Svea 123 brass screen 001.JPG Svea 123 brass screen 001 edit.jpg
     
  2. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    This looks to be a thin brass wire for the wick. Nipped at both ends.

    001.JPG
     
  3. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    6,887
    Location:
    UK
    @Billofthenorth
    Not a mod but an original variation. Most recently I came across such with this Monitor Minor stove, where it had become dislodged, leaving an air gap.

    IMG_5407.JPG IMG_5414.JPG

    I think the gauze was intended to protect the wick from scorching in the burner stem, but provided the stove is never run dry of fuel, that's not likely to happen.
     
  4. shueilung.2008 Uruguay

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2015
    Messages:
    337
    Location:
    Uruguay
    @Billofthenorth I've seen that arrangement in the wicks on Optimus and Primus (the brass screen around the top of the wick) but never on a Svea #123. Although the brass wire nipped at both ends is original.

    Enrique
     
  5. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    I found the broken off loop from the end of the wire after posting, so it wasn't nipped at both ends. I have replaced the wick with some unravelled cotton rope and used aircraft aluminum wire of a thicker gauge. I will reassemble without replacing the brass screen and will let you know how it turns out.
     
  6. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    6,966
    Location:
    USA
    I have found the brass screen in a few, but do not recall which ones had it and did not.
    I photographed the wick set up of an early Optimus Svea 123 here. LINK
    And some photos from that link here.
    [​IMG]
    Further down the thread.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Ken in NC
     
  7. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    snwcmpr that looks very similar to what I found inside mine.

    So far, I have got it cleaned up and put back together but with no improvement in performance. With a good pre-heat I get strong blue flame and the buzz bomb roar but it settles back to a medium or low flame shortly after. Changing caps doesn't help.
    This is what it was doing prior to the fettle. At that time I did test for leaks but haven't done so post-fettle.
    I'm thinking I might have used too much wick or not pushed it far enough up into the tube. I guess it's possible the new wick needs time to soak up sufficient fuel. :-k

    Okay, done for the day, back to the work bench later.
     
  8. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    6,966
    Location:
    USA
    When I service the cap I replace the cap gasket and the SRV pip. I would suggest the dunk test of a frozen stove to see if pressure is coming out the SRV.

    I make the pips with a small home made punch I made to cut them .210". It was Gary that helped with determining the size. He sent me a few pips that he had made and I just redid what he had done. He also pointed out when I had a less than optimal flame. That I still had work to do. :thumbup:

    I am grateful for all the information I have gotten over the short time I have been here. I have read the posts of the 'new' information about servicing the SRVs.
    I got pip buckets from Stu. :)
    Alexander is another that helped by emails about all of the variations, as well as Doug with his incredible history research. :clap:
     
  9. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    Both of the caps I used had new gaskets, one had a new pip as well and both hold pressure on my 123r. I'm thinking there is another cause.
     
  10. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    6,966
    Location:
    USA
    Sometimes I will warm up the tank with a small butane torch. Not 'HOT', but enough to reduce the time to 'hot'. If it won't blast from that then maybe the vaporizer is reducing the flow. Like tight wick, small wick, etc. I have always seen the brass screen as an advantage, I replace when they are there. It may require a citric acid clean of the vaporizer, too.
     
  11. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    I went at the vaporizer with vinegar and a pipe cleaner but left out the screen on reassembly. Later in the week I'll mess with it again and see what I can come up with.
     
  12. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    6,966
    Location:
    USA
    I found vinegar too weak for me.
    And this is the flame I got after Gary told me the flame could be better, and after I fettled some more.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. haknuts

    haknuts Norway Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    May 24, 2013
    Messages:
    143
    Location:
    Norway
  14. DAC United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    NW Oregon
    I recently pulled apart a Svea 123 from the early 1970's because it wouldn't maintain a strong flame. IMG_1159.JPG Inside, the screen the wick was toasted. IMG_1162.JPG After a frustrating 45 minutes trying to install a new wick with the screen I relegated it to my spare parts tin and installed the wick without it. After reassembly I dunked the stove in hot water and found leaks just about everywhere - at the bottom of the vaporizer, tank lid and pressure release. Okay, I should have done that before disassembly, but I'm good at discovering the hard way to do things. New gaskets from fettle box fixed the fuel cap leaks. Copper grease (about $5 from Napa Auto Parts) fixed the leak at the vaporizer threads.
     
  15. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    After my first attempt at fettling this stove didn't produce the desired results, I decided to give it another go.
    It was burning only at a low flame with lot's of orange. So I took it apart, cleaned it with carb cleaner and used a thinner gauge wire for the wick. It is still thicker than the original stuff but is the thinnest I was able to find. It seems to have worked well enough. The replacement wick is untwisted cotton rope.
    006.JPG
    The original wick and wire toward the bottom. The unsuitable replacement at the top and the red wire (20 gauge) is what is in now.

    001.JPG
    After the re-fettle: The flames have plenty of orange but the fuel has plenty of carb cleaner in it at this point. The flames are hot with good intensity. I ran it for 25 minutes throttling up and down to ensure proper function.

    007.JPG
    After I ran the tank dry and refilled with crown fuel the orange has gone. Later as it warmed up some orange crept back in but I think (hope) it's the remnants of carb cleaner in there.

    009.JPG
     
  16. DAC United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    NW Oregon
    Good job and good results. Be careful about running the tank dry, though. When it runs low on fuel the wick can over heat and char. I've read that the fuel passing through the vaporizer helps cool it.
     
  17. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    When I opened it to refill there was nothing sloshing around. It was still going strong when I shut down, so I'm sure there was still some in the tank.
     
  18. DAC United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    NW Oregon
    No worries. I can't count the number of times I ran mine dry before I got here. They say 'necessity is the mother of invention' but it seems to be the parent of research, too. By that I mean, when the stove stopped working well it drove me to find out what happened and how I could fix it.
     
  19. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    6,966
    Location:
    USA
    That's a nice looking flame pattern.
    Loud?
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Billofthenorth United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2016
    Messages:
    169
    Location:
    Vehicle City, Michigan, USA
    Loud enough. As far as I'm concerned, the louder the better!