Does anyone know what type of solder-alloy that was used in productoin of the great brass classics? Preferably the Swedish stoves? I will not reduce the strenght of the stove when reparing one.

Svein

Hi.

It's brass or aluminum flux soldering/solder.

A simular type of soldering rod these days is called
Durafix (www.durafix.com). However it does go under
other names as well.

It requires a flame temp (indoors with no wind) of 732deg F (800 def Pref). A good propane torch can do this, however a propane torch (single gass) head (such as the Turbo Torch) is recomended.

Some of the older svea's look like they were heat press fit (slow cooled).

The brass versions of the durafix rods require around
1100 deg F (1200 deg pref). As soldering with brass is
called brazing.

We've soldered large holes in pepsi cans, as well as several kerosene/diesel stove tanks with the durafix rods.

It does take come getting use to. As well as the surface you are soldering must be imculately clean. That means a stanless steel brush and alcohol to clean off the surface and extract the residual oil based products (fuel).

One important point. If fixing the burner head or monting. It is highly unlikely that the durafix repair job will hold as those paticular stove parts often exceed 700+ deg. Therefore the brazng rods are your best bet. Just be certain that your metal is thick enough as brazing can do more dammage than good.

Hope this helps.

Enjoy.

yt

NorthernFlame

Thank You for replaying!

I think you are talking about the burners here. What about the brass tanks? Som regular Sn/Pb alloy? 50/50? I have used an alloy with 97% Sn/3% Ag, wich has an metingpoint of 220 C. I don't think that the original solder has a higher melting point, because I really have to be cautious not to melt the original solderings using this alloy.

Svein

I've used heavy half-round plumbers solder to repair tanks. It is easy to melt the original solder joins so I think the original solder alloy must have been heavy on lead.


I find it easier to work with a small pencil flame jewellers torch. Rothenberger is the name that springs to mind but that may not be correct.

I've made several repairs with a small torch that you fill with lighter gas.

Handi is probably the man to ask.

Hey,

I've used both lead (60/50) and silver solder for working on stoves. I recently built a tiny coil burner using plumber's silver solder (220C melting point) and copper tubing. I've not had any problem with that.

For common repairs on the tank itself, just about any solder will do. The legs were often lead-soldered on, and those don't melt unless you torch the whole stove....

Be careful, though. Any repairs carried out on the burner or riser or valve assembly will be subject to higher heat, and must be brazed.

Basically, if the part isn't heat discolored, it stays cool enough for solder.

Good luck,

J

I was infering to the tanks in the Heat press fit.

As Will stated (the plumbing sticks) are mostly lead

From looking into the tanks themselves the solders/welds are very smooth. From my grandfathers old records/diagrams. The lead solder was either:

#1: a ring of solder was placed where the joint was to be made then the tank metal was heated to hot enough to properly melt the solder (heat press fit) then let cool.

#2: a very small lead solder stream was run on the joint in/on the tanks (the tanks were turning as if they were on a lathe).

Sorry for the confusion I thought you were looking for a more modern/durable way to fix camp stove tanks.

Back then it was in all likelyhood 50/50 lead solder.

Common day lead plumbing pipe solder is not much different than what solder back then,

Thanks again.

Thank you, all of you!

Ten years ago I bought a Optimus 00 paraffin stove. I didn't buy it because it was an old fashioned stove, but because it was one of the best in stores in my hometown when it came to low weight and high power! Unfortunately I had a leak at the valve once and replaced the valve but sadly I overthigtened it so i could not get it out again! I thought the stove was ruined for ever. so I bought a Explorer 11 to replace it. But I missed my old three-legged friend. So when I found som strings on soldering on this site where Albert described soldering as simple I decided to give it a try. And it was not at all that difficult. I warmed it with a torch and took out the pump. The bottom of this pump where the valve sits, was brazed so I cut it of with a saw. Luckily I had a pump from a radius 21. Here the bottom was soldered to the pump tube. I soldered this bottom in the Optimus pumptube,added a new valve, shortened the pumprod and the stove was ready for camping again! Felt Gooood!!!

I'm going to spend a few days hiking an troutfishing in the mountains this weekend. I think I will bring the 00 as the temperature will drop a bit and I expect some rain. Notting is as comforting as the roar of a brass paraffine classic when you finaly get into the tent after a rainy day! (Well except from a good malt maybe)

Thanks again!

Svein

Lucky for some, theres been so little rain over here that it's not worth fishing. Lack of oxygen in the water, pollution and algal blooms have killed a lot of fish too.

Svein It is not hard to solder. There is only a few basic rules to follow This is 1 The work must be clean 2 when you thinkis clean , clean it again. 3 put solder on both sides of the joint to be soldered , 4 use a flux 5 let it cool on its own WITH OUT water.
I am pleased You tried this repair. but I am more so pleased your old friend is working again. Sorry I didn't reply to this earlier but I thought you were wanting to weld or braze it. I couldn't work out why. Now I understand Albert

Yes I did it in the way you mention above. Cleaned it mechanically, chemically and mechanically. Afterwards I did as search on solder-alloy on the net, and found there was a world of alloys out there. So I did understand that I din't know anything about solder (what was the old Sokerates saying about knowledge?).ut if it originally was used a 50/50 Sn/Pb alloy my 97Sn/3Ag solder none proper should both be a stronger and more heat resistant solder.

Thanks again!