Hi all, I'm looking to buy a set of hollow punches to start making viton gaskets and maybe pump leathers. I read Bryan's thread in the Fettlers master class, and he had a very nice punch tool that could make holed gaskets in 1 punch. Unfortunately this one is a bit over my budget... Does anyone have experience with the cheaper ($20-40) sets from the Bay of Evil, you have to tap with a hammer? Would it be easy enough to punch "ring" style gaskets using these tools, or do you really need one with a centering pin or something like that? Can someone advise me an affordable kit? So many questions...
Here we had some discussion about punch tools: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/28349 Small Boehm or Peddinhaus set might be a good start. Price would be a bit over that 40 eur/$ but later on you could buy more cutters for it. http://www.boehm.fr/nos-coffrets-type.php?id_type_coffret=2&id_coffret=3 http://www.peddinghaus.de/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/PHV-12-Locheisensatze.pdf
I use Osborne single punch leather tools that I have collected at flea markets and yard sales.These tools are sold used on eBay also.My problem with buying costly sets is you end up using only part of the set. Getting perfectly centered inner holes is not easy but if the material is cheap like lead,cork sheets or leather a few mistakes are not an issue. Leather workers use end grain pine or lead blocks as the cutting surface.
Thanks AB and Doug! If I were to buy some single punch tools, can I find commonly used diameters for stove gaskets somewhere? I read that NRV pips are 4-5 mm, what are useful sizes for the 00/96/210 style filler caps inner/outer diam?
For NRV pips (=4,5 mm (also maybe 3/16" works)) see few last posts here: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/28349
Yesterday I realised that the inner diameter of later 00 filler caps are bigger than elder filler caps. Fettlebox's seal is 8mm inner diameter, but that is to small for the later 00-caps.
Don't forget you can cut rubber,cork sheet and even thin lead with a pair of scissors. Just trace the shape with a coin or someting then cut it out.Center holes can be burned out on lead with a soldering device. Btw,after a lead washer is cut it can be made wider by hammering it making it thinner and wider. The inner hole becomes smaller
Hi, just throwing in my tuppence worth. As a mechanical engineer (Motorcycle) with a career of over 40+ years I have used the # 950, 11 piece gasket punch set when making gaskets for motorcycles which I have worked on over the years, these kits are marketed by a number of tool outlets some of who sell from their vans, these kits are commonly advertised on ebay and secondhand ones do turn up, I have recently bought an unused earlier 8 piece Kal Van tools set which comes in a clear plastic wallet off ebay. Single size wad punches are sold on ebay in a whole host of sizes and are a good buy if it's only the one which is required, the makers advise using eye protection when using these tools and plastic faced mallets are good enough to use, what is important is to place a piece of hardboard underneath the item you wish to punch holes into. Best wishes & happy gasket making=John. If in doubt, brew up.
Hi, I would like to add a few tips to this thread on punching washers: 1. When using any thin-walled punch it is a good idea to support the sheet being cut on some edge grain wood support. This shold prevent damage to the delicate cutting edge of the punch. 2. If you are making ring washers (such a heat-resistant burner washers) using single punches, always punch the smaller dimeter (inner) circle first, then the larger outer diameter. If you try it the other way, outward forces generated when punching the smaller diameter inner hole will likely rupture the ring. Once you have punched the inner circle you can replace the cut section in the sheet material to help in aligning the punch used for the second, outer cut. 3. If you are making a washer to which you have clear access after fitting (such as burner washers) you can get away with punching only the inner hole. You then assemble the parts, tighten, and cut away the surplus gasket material using a Stanley knife or scalpel. This tip is useful if you are making a washer for a BIG burner. 4. Rubber compounds will often deform when using punches resulting if "waisted", ill-shaped NRV pips for example. This old post describes an alternative way of cutting such seals: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/8318 Best Regards, Kerophile.
