New trivets for stoves. Ibrik friendly type.

Hi, the vast majority of the smaller classic stoves were never intended to have a pan-holder.

Some half-pint and one-pint stoves had sharp grooves indented into the top of the legs, where they would contact a pan base, to increase friction and perhaps stop a pan sliding off.
If you are using a small pan the lack of a pan-holder can be a pain, as the support provided by the legs might stop short of providing the required support.

In the case of larger, 1.75 pint capacity and upwards stoves, the lack of a pan-holder, or the large centre holes in the Manufacturers designs, can again disappoint coffee lovers.

Here are some photos of a Kerophile solution:

First we have a one-pint stove, in this case an Austrian-made Phoebus No.30 stove from the 1930s:







Then we have a 1.75 collapsible stove, this one is a fairly early Optimus No.45:



The pan holders shown are made from stainless steel, welded wire-work. I have used a nominal 4in. diameter model for the one-pint stove, and the larger 5in. nominal diameter ring for the 1.75 pint stove.

These pan-holders are intended for collapsible stoves as the legs are inserted into the trivet. They would need to be modified if one wished to use them on fixed-leg stoves.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Well done!

 

Hi George,

Well done and thanks for sharing.
You should think about selling your trivets.

Cheers,
Norman

 

Excellent!

....Arch

 

Hi,

Wonderful idea, kerophile (and I agree on the idea you could sell a few!)

Now, thinking out loud, it looks like the smaller one, for the half pinters, might also work on a Svea 123 to better support odd shaped containers like the US GI canteen cups. If I'm looking at things correctly, I'm guessing it might work if the legs were first turned in an outward angle, in the same direction, then the trivet slid on and the legs returned to their normal position.

Have you tried that yet?

Rick C

 

Hi Rick, It has been tried. I will post some images later.
Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

That design is brilliant because the horizontal part of pan legs can have the length they want. Even stoves of the same model and same year can have variations in the shape/mount of the pot legs. Most trivets for sale – not that there is all that many – are not this flexible.

As mentioned above: for sale soon? Two for me please

All the best, e

 

Hi @sa3spd Here are some photographs I have just taken of the 4 inch trivet used on a Svea 123R stove outfit:




As can be seen the pan-holder sits on, and is supported by, the existing supports of the Sv.123 stove. The pan holder is easily engaged onto pan-holder. The Svea supports have been used in their outboard orientation.

Comparing the third and fourth photos, you will see that the Svea supports have been rotated slightly to lock the pan-holder onto the stove/case.

I use a Globetrotter pan set with my Svea 123R and the whole outfit is very compact. The stove, its mini-pan and handle fits comfortably within the two Globetrotter pans.






You will see that my new trivet clips neatly on the smaller of the Globetrotter pans and is held by the strap.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi, my recent interest in pan-holders was prompted by a small project I have underway to make a case for a Svea 123 stove I was recently gifted. This lovely stove came in its really neat Sigg aluminium case, but I want a case/ windshield so that I can use the stove outdoors.

This is very much work in progress. I have obtained a 4in. diameter stainless steel storage pot approx 5 in. high. I have yet to make the cut-outs and ventilation holes, but you will get the idea.
The nominal 4 in. trivet clips onto the top of the storage pot, and the burner to pan distance should be OK.
Here are a few photos:



So there you have it. Yet another application for this versitile mini-pan-holder.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi,

Thanks for the Svea pictures, kerophile. As another poster already asked, please put me down for two of the four inchers when the demand reaches the point you're ready to start selling them!

Rick C

 

Hi @sa3spd and others who expressed an interest in getting one or more of these trivets. I will start a list, and let you know in a week or two if it is viable and likely cost.....it will be reasonable.

I did some preliminary work and trials with the Sv123 container this afternoon. There is more work to be done on the ventilation of the case but it works and here are some photos:




Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi George
very elegant, beats the old bike disc rotor that i've used in the past,
i'd be interested in one of the 123 size and if you have made one that will fit your picnic stand, i'll have a couple of those, trade or paypal is fine by me, assuming i can find anything to trade (never sold any of my stovie stuff just buried under bike swag )
I'll pop back and keep an eye on the progress of the sv123 container

atb Bill

 

I was admiring the gorgeously crafted pan holders that Kerophile and others have made here with envy. I don't have equipment for wire forming or welding, so I need a more pre-fabricated approach. A friend will do minor jobs for me, but I don't want to strain his generosity.

My answer came when I got a sandwich the other day at a local restaurant. My food came in one of these stainless steel baskets:

​

With a little research, I found that these are manufactured by a company called American Metalcraft, and can be purchased in 8", 10" and 12" top diameters. They are not particularly costly -- one supplier offers the 8" for $5.99 USD, and the 12" for under $10. They are 2" deep, which just happens to be the depth of my favorite skillet. The taper would work nicely to trap pots so they didn't slide around. I'm sure with the many creative minds on this forum could use these as a basis for some handy accessories.

 

Has anyone thought of casting the classic old cast-iron tops once again? How difficult would it be, do you think? George, Stu?

 

Hi, Peter, It would be a labour of love rather than an economic proposition.

Stu and I were involved in preparing masters and having "Primus" flame plates cast in SG cast iron. As well as the practical hands-on work which Stu had to do, there were high up-front costs to get the pieces cast, then Stu's further work to hand-finish them and make them available for sale.

So in principle Primus trivets could be made but:

1. The original design is not very robust and if the trivet doesn't crack in use due to differential expansion/contraction stresses, it can easily break if dropped.
None of the Original stove manufacturers persisted with cast-iron trivets except for their very largest stoves.

2. I suspect the market is not there for replica trivets at a price which would cover tooling and production costs. People are always looking for a "deal" and have been spoiled by items mass-produced in India and China and then supplied to more developed Nations below local cost of production.

3. These C-I trivets are really heavy, so shipping costs will be high.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi, here is a link to the Flame Plate Project.

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/repro-rare-flame-plates.19043/#post-195671

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Impressive.

I've done some pattern making, and taken a class in foundry work. It was quite memorable when we were about to do our first pour. The instructor said "I just want to remind you that most foundry accidents are fatal." The heat coming off even a small crucible has to be felt to be experienced, and the smell comes straight off the Hinges of Hell.

 

Hello Gents

Having worked in a production foundry, I can state with conviction, that any efforts should be undertaken in cast iron, not steel. The addition of ferrosilicon will enhance corrosion resistance through heating/cooling cycles. This mix is used in casting iron for wood and coal ranges, where a 5-8% component is not unusual. Ordinary cast iron will rust and corrode much more quickly without this additive.

The biggest problem for the hobbyist, is the heating of the scrap-iron to a suitable temperature to puddle, and keeping it there. Usually, temperature range of 1,150 to 1,200 °C (2,100 to 2,190 °F) is required. This requires considerable effort to reach and maintain. A small Blast Furnace will do it, but electric induction is far easier.

Good patterns, fine sand, wide runners/risers, and good weighting will ensure good castings. Allowing plenty of time to cool will also be beneficial, the molds should preferably left to cool naturally if time is no object. Once cool, knocking out will have very little effect on the raw casting. Tap off the runners, and then fettle into shape.

Hard work, but the finished product is very satisfying.

Best regards,

Mike.

 

Hi Mike, my mistake. The flame plates were cast in Spheroidal Graphitic (S.G.) cast iron, NOT steel.
SG cast iron is a strong impact resistant form of Cast Iron and is widely used in the automotive industry for such critical applications as spring hangers in lorries and heavy plant.

Indeed in Stu's original post he did say:

"These plates are not made from the usual cast iron which will shatter on impact if dropped on the floor , but from malleable SG iron 8)which has a greater tensile strength , i have done this in conjuntion with my local foundry who have been superb with help & info & solid advice 8)


Again, many Apologies for my temporary aberration.
Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hello Kerophile,

No worries, I have worked with the ferrosilicon, but not the SG malleable stuff. I know for sure that the normal cast iron will not do, and for heat resistance and corrosion prevention, the ferrosilicon is far more suitable. We never found it to be too brittle, though to be fair, we always cast solid plates, not the fine and intricate designs such as the trivets. The recipe we were using was used to manufacture wood/coal ranges for over 120yrs, a long time in our little land, a mere blink for your Ancient Isles.

I'm thinking that the SG Cast Iron may have required a lot more than our wee foundry could do, so most any object to be made in malleable material was cast in steel. We cast everything from street hardware to cookware to engineering items to wood/coal burners. We also did a lot of die-casting in Ali and iron, as well as the odd small run of brass. We could pour up to 7 metric tonnes a day in iron/steel, 2-3 MT a day in die-casting, and maybe a tonne in brass if needed. The main floor worked in sand moldings, the dies were a steel alloy, and the brass was done with sand moldings using either a wooden pattern, or lost wax for one-off bespoke items.

It was interesting stuff, and I began an apprenticeship as a Furnace-man, but gave it away to work in the Freezing Works (Abattoirs) for 3 times what I made in the Foundry. It was either dirty bloody work, or bloody dirty work but the bloody stuff paid far more. Funny that after so many years, I'm still learning about casting metal

Best regards,

Mike.