Hi all, My mini pump compatible fuel cap won't hold pressure. Replaced the gasket. The spring still works in the male part of the cap. I don't have a pentagonal wrench, so didn't mess with the female end. Anyway, hate to throw the cap away, so thought I'd solicit repair suggestions. Thanks, Jeff
This little masterpiece have two seals, an ordinary pip in the NRV part and an o-ring in the SRV part. This o-ring sits around a funnel shaped little thing moving from the SRV spring action. The spring is seated in the bowl of the funnel and against the screw on top. The SRV o-ring seals against a seat formed by the cap itself. The NRV pip seals against the end of the funnel tube. I think this post should be a good starting point. Others might have more. I might have a source for those o-rings. Give me a hint if needed. You will need a proper tool to get into the SRV. There are also usually some sort of thread lock. All the best, e ….. and never throw away stove parts!
Hi @jkline This was my fix for the leaking 8R pump cap! You need the special penta tool to open the cap and soaking it in acetone for a few days and/or heating is recommended to break the thread locking compound used by the factory to hold the adjusting screw. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/8r-mini-pump-cap-rebuild.33133/
@jkline Don't be misled to think that the 'torx' tool, said to work with this 5 sided screw, will work. It will, most probably, bugger the hole. Use a proper 5 sided tool, or make a proper tool. As a side note: The original tool, designed by @exeter_yak had a taper designed into the 5 sides.
@jkline +100 on what @snwcmpr wrote. "Make do" tools are rarely super effective, and even if they do work, they usually damage some other part, such as Ken mentioned. Good luck, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
We deliberated over this taper on the FB penta key for some time, whether or not to apply it to our tools (It's easily done), but we thought it better (in our opinion) to have more 'Surface Contact' to drive the screw with a parallel drive, rather than a taper drive with considerably less surface contact. The taper is a good idea to 'Fit all' though
I suggest the taper is a bad idea. It will have little contact area and will try to split the brass at the top corners - exactly the weakest point. Asking for trouble. The exact fitting tools such as made by @Longilily are the only thing I would use for this.
Thanks guys. I got out my stash of new pump caps I bought from A&H a few years ago. All leak through the end of the cap... all four. Guess I better buy a pent wrench... this is ridiculous.
Unused in a bag for five years is not forever. These were not made in the 60's; they were fabricated in 2011, according to A&H. As there is an obvious reliability issue with these, I'll start packing an extra cap in the repair bag.
I received a Campingo 2 with the fuel cap soldered over. I thought parts might be missing, so sent it off to a master to repair. He just cleaned up the solder and serviced the SRV. Duane
I agree. My comment was, not to you personally, but that prior to a few years ago the SRVs were not serviced at all, except by maybe a few. Now, with the information out there it is a simple job to switch out the pip.
Isn't that testament to our community ! Putting our heads together and sharing info/experience and learning together ! Great stuff if you ask me ! Well done to all of us far and wide
I am sorry to say I had the same kind of problems as JKLine, with caps from the same supplier. Bluewater Stoves were able to fix them up for me, so all are good now. Cheers Simon Foxxx New Zealand
